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andyhudson

torque setting

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I have a 92 made vr6 but classed as a 93. Model. I've just done the wheel bearing and drive shaft on front drivers side and I just want to make sure the torque setting is right for hub nut onto drive shaft. Should it be 265nm same as all other corrado? It is mentioned that it should be 60 odd in some places but am I correct in thinking thta is for later vr6's?

 

Also got a strange noise under hard braking now like something rubbing anyone got any ideas?

Cheers andy

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]72248[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72249[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72250[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]72251[/ATTACH]

 

Hello Andy,

 

the torque setting for the front hub nuts on the VR6 is 90 Nm (66 ft Ib) plus 1/8 turn (45 Deg)

Please see pictures attached. :thumbleft:

 

Regarding the noise you have under hard braking this could be the dust / splash shield,

which is fitted directly behind the brake disc and bolted to the hub, you may have pressed the shield against the brake disc accidently,

coursing it to rub now and again.

or it could be where you've removed the whole front hub to replace the wheel bearing and not checked / reset the camber setting,

if you don't check or reset the camber which is fully adjustable on all the Corrado's the front wheel won't be central,

and you could be running the tyre on the outer or inner edge which can course a rubbing rumbling noise, under hard braking plus wear out your tyres unevenly.

The camber is adjustable by the two top hub bolts which bolt the hub unit to the front suspension strut.

I adjusted mine by using a small spirit level tapped to a straight piece of wood,

and was able to set my camber perfectly central.

****************************************************************************

Please note you can only check / adjust camber and tracking on perfect straight level ground,

and make sure your tyre pressures are correct,

other wise you will just keep getting false readings as the car and ground have to be both level. :geek:

 

Andy the only other thing to do is to make sure everything you unbolted is done up and back in the right place.

The other thing I've had in the past is excessive brake dust on the front brakes coursing a grinding / rubbing noise,

all I did was remove the brake pads and clean the brake discs, calipers, and clean and regrease (using copper grease) the brake pads.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Good luck. :thumbleft:

 

Si

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I don't know for sure but I cant see any reason why 265 shouldn't be appropriate. as for the noise, no idea :( as long as you've done everything up and put it back how it came off should be all good :)

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well from what i could find its only 90n/m on the later model with a 12 point nut. the nut i took off and have replaced with was a normal 6 sided hexagon. but on the passenger side ive noticed today that it has a 12 sided nut on it.

 

as for the noise i suspected that it was the shock top mount not sat right and cross axeled but i dont think it is now, i have just fitted koni adjustables on it so all the camber ect will be out but this shouldn't cause strange noises as nothing is rubbing from what i can see.

 

lately i have replaced the shocks and then the bearing and drive shaft. i now have a squeaky noise which changes pitch if the pedal is pressed slightly when driving. when i go really slowly i can then hear a rubbing notchy noise. i cant make out if the to noises are linked and the same thing or not. i do also seem to have steering wheel vibration as well at higher speed.

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Is it possible that the bearing nut being to tight could cause my strange noises? And that I should get a 12 point nut and torque it to 90nm. What's special about the 12 point nuts that allows them to not undo? Are they just nylock nuts?

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All VR's should use the 12 point nut with built in washer and nyloc - I suspect you've crushed the bearing if you've used a 6 point without a washer :-(

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Just reading your original post - this noise you get when braking...

 

If you take the nut off do you get any play between the bearing and hub? Just wondered if the disc is hitting the brake carrier?

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i just re torqued the nut to 90n/m and used a nyloc nut and the noise of the brakes rubbing is still there and there is abit of a knocking noise, im assuming the bearing is knackered from being over tightened. i shall buy another and replace it and see how that goes. ill update so if anyone is searching they have some information that may help them.

 

if anyone has any advice or help they can give will be appreciated.

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Stupidly I was in a rush so just swapped nuts and retorqued, I didn't feel the bearing stupidly. No I didn't use a geniune one. I did try and feel for any play and I couldn't feel any. I put a new drive shaft on so shouldn't be that. The brakes didn't squeak before so it has to be related to what I've done and surely must be the bearing. Ill replace it anyway and get my clock from work and check hub and disk are running true

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took the hub off, and the bearing feels fine to me. i cant decide weather to change it or not. as for the brake sqeauling. the disc has a slight lip on it and im wondering if its possible that when ive refitted the caliper and disc that the play in bolt and hole means that the edge of the pad is riding on the disc edge?? as for the low speed noise i can hear im thinking that it must now be a bush. whats most likely? top mount? could it be the bush on bottom of anti roll bar drop link?

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