Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 16, 2013 Right all started when i went to leave an NCP car park pressed the electric window switch and nothing happened had to get the GF to get out and put the ticket in to open the barrier. Tried the switch all the way home and still nothing but the relay click from behind the drivers rear quarter. Got home and had the door open and held the button after 2 seconds the window worked fine both up and down perfect i thought. Roll on a month and 1/2 later and was about to leave work and thought id roll down the window and nothing again (passenger side worked fine), got home and still nothing left it the night and was driving to work in the morning and it worked again. Just tried it again now on the drive and nothing again, switch activates the relays and there is power drawn as can be seen on the volt gauges. Stripped the door card off to see if i could see/feel anything wrong, nothing i can see both cables are still connected. Ive tried swapping the switch from the passenger side and it still just makes the relay click Anyone shed any light ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renson 0 Posted February 16, 2013 mine does this on the passenger side once in a while. I don't use that window very often so it seems to stick sometimes. I sprayed some silicone spray down the gides and it was fine for a good year or so. Started to do it again recently so must do it again. I'd try something like that first, its cheap and may just sort it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 16, 2013 mine does this on the passenger side once in a while. I don't use that window very often so it seems to stick sometimes. I sprayed some silicone spray down the gides and it was fine for a good year or so. Started to do it again recently so must do it again. I'd try something like that first, its cheap and may just sort it. Think is when it does work theres nothing to indicate its the guides, no nasty noises etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 16, 2013 Just had a read through the bentley manual and its says about checking the window module will have a look tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guildmage 11 Posted February 17, 2013 I have exactly the same problem. My driver side window, sometimes refuses to work. I have been testing this extensively and I have ruled out cable, motor and/or switch problems. I can also hear clicking. On odd occasion opening/closing passenger window few times, makes driver side to work again. Only thing left to replace is that electric window module, me thinks. Looking forward to your module checking. Not sure if that helps but I never had problems with this... it's started to misbehave after I replaced my hacked door membranes. Lot's of internet research suggest window module to be the problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 17, 2013 Yeah i tried the opening passenger window thing and then it began to work last time doesnt work now though....glad that youve ruled out wiring and regulator as heard its a ballache to get at especially when the window is stuck in the up position ---------- Post added at 8:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:21 AM ---------- And yeah never had any problems with.mine either just started out the blue but suppose these things do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 17, 2013 Well had the rear quarter panel off and checked for continuity across the pins and apparently its open circuit checked wires up to fuse box and all alright so now im stuck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vw rule 19 Posted February 17, 2013 Hello there, I had this problem on my Corrado as well the passenger window would only open some times plus it was creaking when going up & down, the creaking noise was from the cable as it was wearing through the cable guide and fraying, the cable guide has a nylon inner linning and once the cable wears through that it'll be metal on metal, the cable is similar to that on a mountain bike which can fray and snap. :( I knew I had to purchase a new window regulator unit and because you can no longer buy the motor or regulator separately, I would have to obtain the complete unit which was around £300.00 from VW main dealer complete with the 3 stainless steel rivets. But before buying the unit I thought I would just check the wirring as the window didn't always work, the fault I found was with the drivers side window switch i.e (the governor switch) one of the wires had come out of place but not right out and so was coursing a intermittent fault i.e (window only working some times) all the wires in the connecting blocks are of a female spade type and are held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head, so just had to adjust the spike arms out ward a bit more and push the wire back in, which when done you should hear a click as the wire spade head clips back in place. I've since replaced the whole passenger window regulator as stated above as the cable was warn, and this window now works perfectly. :dance: When pressing the electric window switch if the window doesn't work but you can hear the electric window control unit clicking, then chances are the control unit is ok and the fault is with in the wirring from switch to regulator somewhere, or the wondow motor has burn out or seized up. Check to make sure you have continuity through the wires where they go through the door hinge area, and make sure the wirring in the bottom of the door is clipped in correctly in the plastic clips, as the wirring down here is for the window regulator and the door locking motor, if the wirring isn't clipped in correctly then it can catch and rub on the window glass as it moves up and down, and if the wires wear through they can short out on the inside of the door coursing a similar fault. It might also be a good idea to check that all the wires are in correctly in the electric window control unit connector plug, what I mean is make sure the wires are in nice and tight i.e (held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head) I hope this helps, :salute: Cheers Si :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 17, 2013 Hello there, I had this problem on my Corrado as well the passenger window would only open some times plus it was creaking when going up & down, the creaking noise was from the cable as it was wearing through the cable guide and fraying, the cable guide has a nylon inner linning and once the cable wears through that it'll be metal on metal, the cable is similar to that on a mountain bike which can fray and snap. :( I knew I had to purchase a new window regulator unit and because you can no longer buy the motor or regulator separately, I would have to obtain the complete unit which was around £300.00 from VW main dealer complete with the 3 stainless steel rivets. But before buying the unit I thought I would just check the wirring as the window didn't always work, the fault I found was with the drivers side window switch i.e (the governor switch) one of the wires had come out of place but not right out and so was coursing a intermittent fault i.e (window only working some times) all the wires in the connecting blocks are of a female spade type and are held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head, so just had to adjust the spike arms out ward a bit more and push the wire back in, which when done you should hear a click as the wire spade head clips back in place. I've since replaced the whole passenger window regulator as stated above as the cable was warn, and this window now works perfectly. :dance: When pressing the electric window switch if the window doesn't work but you can hear the electric window control unit clicking, then chances are the control unit is ok and the fault is with in the wirring from switch to regulator somewhere, or the wondow motor has burn out or seized up. Check to make sure you have continuity through the wires where they go through the door hinge area, and make sure the wirring in the bottom of the door is clipped in correctly in the plastic clips, as the wirring down here is for the window regulator and the door locking motor, if the wirring isn't clipped in correctly then it can catch and rub on the window glass as it moves up and down, and if the wires wear through they can short out on the inside of the door coursing a similar fault. It might also be a good idea to check that all the wires are in correctly in the electric window control unit connector plug, what I mean is make sure the wires are in nice and tight i.e (held in place with in these connecting blacks by two raised spike arms, which are on each side of each female spade wire, a bit like a arrow head) I hope this helps, :salute: Cheers Si :thumbleft: Cheers will look into the switch thing, as said im getting clicking from the rear module when the switch is pressed though will that mean the switch is ok? I checked the module connector blocks today and sprayed electrical cleaner in them nothing was loose Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vw rule 19 Posted February 17, 2013 Yeah I would say the switch is ok if you can hear the control unit clicking with the switch pressed & tried in both positions. Have you checked to see if you have power to the window regulator it's self ? If you have try tapping with a hammer lightly on the window motor in case it's sticking in the up position which they do now & again. On the drivers window switch you've got one main power sourse and an earth, and then I think there are several earth returns to the window control unit and the passenger window switch. Have you got a power probe if not I would get one as they are great at finding electrical faults, the power probe has two LEDs red & green (red shows active power) and the (green shows active earth) it connects straight on to your car battery and you'll be able to power things up and test for power and earths, you'll be able to trace faults alot quicker. You can use a multi meter but these aren't always as good, there good for testing for continuity, and resistance and showing if you have a drain somewhere. I might have a wirring diagram to help may be, I'll have a look. :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites