Valve rocker cover - over enthusiastic cleaning..

[daveg23 10]

So I have recently been looking to fix my typical idle problems on my 2.0 16v, I was, ironically, at Halfords picking up the last bits for a good clean up and refresh when the c decided enough was enough; cutting out and rough idle were not a strong enough message for me, and would not start.

 

I found that there was a big enough oil leak in to the No 2 spark plug for it to squelch when I pulled the ignition lead.. also noticed a scary amount of oil that appears to have leaked from the valve cover.

 

So this weekend I wanted to change the valve cover gasket and the gasket around the spark plugs. Took off the upper inlet manifold and valve cover and decided to clean them both up a bit before replacing with the new gaskets.

 

Had a go with carb cleaner and a foam degreaser, but the valve cover just took it all and remained covered in crap, So left it overnight :bonk: and came back this morning to find that the underside has lost its shine, i.e. the lip that fits on to the gasket now looks dull rather than shiny which from memory is how it should look.

 

So any advice on a) whether my memory is correct, the lip should look smooth and shiny :scratch: and b) have I fubar'ed my rocker cover?

[Wullie 1]

I'm not aware of these products being corrosive so wouldn't think any damage has been done unless there is obvious signs of erosion on the surface such as pitting or rounding of previous sharp edges. You could check the face with a straight edge, see if there are any gaps between the edge and the cover.

 

I have in the past used a sheet of plate glass and grinding paste to resurface joining faces on obsolete covers. Beg a piece of salvage plate from your friendly neighbourhood glazier, or get a mirror from a charity shop large enough for the cover to sit on with a few inches extra all round. Support the glass/mirror on a smooth surface and smear some grinding paste on the mating surface of the cover and shuffle it about on small circles. Keep checking the face and a matt surface should appear where the grinding paste is doing it's job. When the whole face is matt it should be job done. I used this technique on a Sunbeam S7 engine and it was oil tight after, more oil tight than factory actually. If you get plate glass you can also check the face by lightly oiling the valve cover joint face, lay it joint face up and place the plate glass on top and press gently. the oil should seal between the glass and cover, any deformity will show as areas where oil is not forming a seal against the glass. Don't use window glass as it is not absolutely flat. If you are totally skint a brick through a shop window can provide free plate. Only kidding of course, wouldn't dare suggest anything illegal.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Just to clarify, use the FINE grinding paste......

 

RB

[daveg23 10]

Wullie, Roger thanks for the good advice, I will give this a try at the weekend, not the shop window part though..