immobiliser trouble

[paulneale 10]

i have a 1994 m reg 2.0 16v corrado, immobilizer playing up its a cobra 8150, so decided to remove it. i now have a few wires that i can not find homes for. the car will start but dies straight away....please help. here are a few pics of current situation. main points are that i have a red and yellow wire coming to the back of the fuse box with the other wires that are attached into G.1 but this red and yellow wire is not connected into G.1 i also have a black wire coming out of G1 either 03/04 but this goes nowhere. please help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

could it possibly be that one or more of those wires are for the immobiliser ring, which read the chip in the key, around the ignition barrel.

 

I know that when i changed my ignition barrel, & prior to arguing with VW that the keys are indeed chipped, the symptoms were similar. IE the car would start but would then almost immediately die

 

thus im thinking if said ring is not connected to the fuse board it could act the same

 

I dont have my workshop manual to check sorry but hopefully someone can on here

[paulneale 10]

thank you for replying. every piece of info i gain is one step closer to solving this problem. that ring around my ignition barrel goes to a box under the dash near the steering column. i have three black wires that come off of it and they went into the immobiliser..currently they go nowhere.. i also have two other black wires that come off of if and they have been soldered into a brown wire that is earthed onto a earthing point....i think your onto something, what did you do to solve your problem?

 

i also have a black wire coming out of g1 03/04 that controls the fuel relay and primes the pump. i do not know where that needs to go?

[paulneale 10]

thanks for that info...the ring around the ignition that goes to the box under the dash i just connected the two black wires from that to the black wire coming from g1 and it started and was running....:cheers: i will connect them up properly now as i was only holding them together with my fingers..i am still lost about the red and yellow wire and a smaller black wire that is with the two black wires that i connected to the black wire from g1. is it a case of if its running fine just tape the red and yellow wire closed and that smaller black wire and forget about them???? or do i try to find a home for them?

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

great news m8

 

i thought it might be a shot in the dark but really happy that it fixed your issue :)

 

FYI i didnt have a wiring issue with mine, the original barrel collapsed so i purchased a new one & fitted it myself but VW had insisted the keys were not chipped when they definitely are. i managed to argue the point & got VW to reprogram it to the new key free of charge

 

regarding your other wires - i would check all electrics etc & see if anything else is not working. other than that someone with a workshop manual may be able to look it up & tell you what those wires are meant for

[paulneale 10]

ah i see well the only concern i have now is the fuel pump is only meant to make a sound when you turn the key?? then the noise stops?? but this way the fuel pump remains to be buzzing away? could that damage it? i am glad you won your argument and got them to do it free of charge. may seem silly but altho i have struggled i have saved loads from not getting a auto electrician out

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

im not sure about the fuel pump sorry m8

 

your experience doesnt seem silly, it may have been a struggle but you have not only saved money but also learnt more about your rado....which is never a bad thing ;)

[paulneale 10]

to true.. there are a few issues from wiring it this way but unless i can get to the ecu wich at the moment the dash has been a nightmare to remove. i wont be able to iron those issues out.

[paddy26 3]

The ecu is under the scuttle tray, not behind the dash. The issue with the clocks resetting every time you remove the key would suggest that you are using the ignition switch power to power a constant 12v circuit.

 

In the other thread I missed the part where the car starts and cuts out.

If the car starts and dies after 1 sec it's usually an immobiliser issue.

 

The immobiliser box is near the headlight switch and has 2 looms connected to it.

When you turn on the ignition do you have 12v at pin 1(black wire)?

 

\Paddy

[paulneale 10]

thanks for redirecting me with the ecu. yea i have joined the two black wires that come out of the immobiliser box to the black wire that comes out of G1. this wire controls the fuel pump and a relay. also the black wire that powers these two wires comes from the ring around the ignition barrel. not to sure if that answers your question

[paddy26 3]

Can you post a pic of what you are calling the immobiliser box?

I just checked mine and there is only 1 black wire. (2 brown, 2 grey).

[paulneale 10]

i will post a pic of the back of the box where the wires connect and a pic of the black wires that i have used to connect to the black wire coming out of G1

[paulneale 10]

 

 

the two black wires come out of the connection on the right of the picture

[paddy26 3]

The 2 black wires are connected to the 6 pin connector?

Only 1 of those is part of the original loom. The other was prob part of the alarm.

Have you checked that this has 12v when the ignition is turned on? And that the 2 brown wires are connected to earth?

I'll check now if the 2 grey wires should have 12v out from the immob box when the ignition is on.

 

\Paddy

[paulneale 10]

yea the two brown wires are earthed and this black wire is spliced into the two black wires. i have not checked any voltage as i do not have a voltage meter. this is like trying to dig a hole with a spoon :(

[paddy26 3]

The two grey wires have 12v when the ignition is turned on.

Have you some spare wire?

If so then remove the interior light from the boot(assuming it works) and use that to test for 12v in the black wire 1st, then the greys. 1 wire on the light to earth and the other end to the wire you are testing for 12v. You need to keep the immobiliser plugged in when testing for 12v in the grey wires. I use just a few strands of wire and push them into the back of the pin with the grey wire.

[paulneale 10]

yea i am pretty sure the boot light works lol..about the only thing i have not had to change lol..ok sooooo if i put a wire on the boot light end and connect the other end to the grey the light should light up??? if there is 12v running thru the grey wire? should i have the ignition on when i connect the two? may seem a silly question but its better to ask rather then do it wrong lol..

[paddy26 3]

Yes. When you have the light removed and the temp wires connected to it, put one wire to the - on the battery and the other to the +. You will then know that the light works. Then test the black wire 1st(ignition on). Then test the grey wires, one at a time.

[paulneale 10]

hi paddy. i just checked the boot light. it does not light up of any of those grey wires or the black one. it does light up when i run a wire from the battery tho. so the light works.

[paddy26 3]

The black wire should have 12v going to it. Can you connect that directly to the battery and then check if the grey wires have 12v? If the grey wires have 12v the car should start and stay running, provided the alarm hasn't interfered with the grey wires. When your checking the grey wires one wire from the boot light should go to ground (screw for door contact switch is easy to use) and the other end should go to the grey wire.

[paulneale 10]

The black wire should have 12v going to it. Can you connect that directly to the battery and then check if the grey wires have 12v? If the grey wires have 12v the car should start and stay running, provided the alarm hasn't interfered with the grey wires. When your checking the grey wires one wire from the boot light should go to ground (screw for door contact switch is easy to use) and the other end should go to the grey wire.

 

yea the black wire has 12v running to it. as for the grey wires i am unable to tell. as the boot light only seems to work when a wire is connected straight from the battery..it seems to no longer work when the boot lid is lifted. the car starts and stays running. i used it for work yesterday, its about a 100 mile round trip.. the car just seems to die every now and then as i come to a stop say at a junction as i put my foot on the clutch to change down gears.