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scruffydubbers

G656PEW screemed into life

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:D

Got my car running today so really chuffed, couple of problems came apparent though

 

The isv valve was opening up far to much at idle causing the car to rev up (had to disconnect) I ve got a quite big hole in the pipe work from the charger at the mo(still waiting for parts) would this cause the valve to open up?

 

Had a big oil leak on the oil cooler, my fault for trusting people on eBay, so I ll order a new replacement

 

I ve also got a water leak out of one of the core plugs on the back of the block, this was a new plug so do they need time to seal, (the car has nt been up to operating temperature yet) or do you think a new one will need to be fitted?

 

Also after the car was starting to warm up it developed a miss-fire. Once cooled and restarted it was fine.

The engine has had oversized pistons fitted and the car was only idling for around 5-10mins could this be due to oil as the rings are not sealing yet? It’s had new spark plugs and new leads and dizzy.

 

The engine is a g60 with a bahnbrenner twin screw charger,

 

Any help would be great

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Kinda OT but... oh man.. those Bahn Brenner screw chargers are NOISY.

 

Don't forget to take your ear plugs out with you!

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yeah it is loud does nt help that theres a boost leak either, had a headache after messing about with it yesterday, lol

 

remembered last night that i had nt connected the vacuum line to the clocks so gonna do this today and see if its any different.

 

has anyone changed a core plug on a G60?

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got the idling problem sorted.

 

but as soon as the car warms up it starts what seems like mis-firing really badly, and the car will not rev up.

 

the spark plugs are very sutty and the exhaust is blowing a lot of black sut out.

can anyone help?

i ve checked the timing time and time again and seems ok

 

spent all day working on it today with not much progress :cry:

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just tried new spark plugs and it no different.

was reading a couple of other posts about and i can see poeple have had simular problems from the hall sensor, i think i might change this and see if there is any difference

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Must be awesome now.. does it look the same as it was when featured? of you running different rims now?

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unplug the o2 probe at the harness on the engine mount and give it a go. itll point to a o2 system issue if it runs right. tis like taping uo the WOT switch.

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ok i ll try that, spoke to henny and a few guys on the dubforce forum and they think it might be to do with overfueling.

 

thanks for the help

 

just bought the blue temp sensor so i ll wack that in and disconnect the lambda sensor and see how it runs.

i have just orderd a new lambda sensor too as i think the one i was using could have been from a VR6 :oops: which will probably/hopefully be the problem

 

bally - the cars looking quite sad at the mo sat on a old set of really badly kerbed tsws, but i ve got some nice design 90s which i am gonna stick on as soon as its running right.

had to change the wheels because i fittd the brembo brakes off my old corrado and the bbs would not clear.

would nt mind a set like urs tho :)

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BBS RC's are sweet rims IMO!! 90's rims look sweet too.. would be great to see some updated pics.. I'd fit a late bonnet too if it was myn.. :)

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:D :D :D

 

changed the sensor, disconnected the lambda probe, and she running really sweet, woo hoo. thanks for the help

 

i ll get some pics when i get the wheels on and shes clean up, :)

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that blue temp switch aint doing anything with the probe unplugged. the car is running of the ECU map all the time. it feels good but it still isn't runnig right. itll be rich now.

 

next steps

 

connect probe up with new blue switch-is it ok?

put in a AF gauge. does it cycle when warm(go from rich to lean over and over again) if not new probe time(or wiring).

check the harness which connects to the o2 probe. should be a 4 wire jobbie with one wire going to the engine mount braket that its fitted to. any of these wires go bad, usually ECU side of the connector too as its warm down there.

check the purple/pink/lavender colour wire, thats signal and the black/brown one which is earth. the probe wont work properly if these 2 wires are even slightly damaged. if they are good-

new probe. any 3 wire probe will work as its just a volt detector that sends a signal back to ECU. i used a universal one before. pay the extra and get a o2 from the stealer with the wires and plug on it. its one less set of wires to worry about then.

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