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4 wheel alignment figures

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Hi

I need to get a 4 wheel alignment done on my Corrado VR6 and because I have lowered my car on coilovers by 100mm, I am being asked for the new settings that they should put in to the machine.

I think these are the camber angles etc. but probably there's a whole set of readings that they need.

 

Has anyone else lowered by 100mm and know the figures they used please?

 

I have to admit that I don't know exactly what they need but someone who's in the know might be able to shed some light maybe?

 

I don't really understand why they can't just make it straight.

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No idea what the numbers need to be but pretty sure there is no adjustment on the rear, It is all fixed.

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Yes, it is. I think the fronts have to be checked against the rears so that both sides are equally spaced. But you're right, the rears are fixed.

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You can adjust the rear beam axel by losening the 3 bolts on the beam mounting point both sides. There is about 1" movment on each side mine is a 95 vr may differ though the years

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I don't want to move the rear beam though. I need to measure against the rear axle to be sure that the front is straight. Then I need camber & caster angles for the front so they can put it on their machine.

I don't understand why they can't just put it on the machine and adjust until it's straight and the camber is as upright as possible.

 

I've done it as best I can with a home tracking kit now so it's better than before and the camber is adjusted as far as possible. I just need to measure the distance from rear to front hubs because I know my front subframe is slightly out which causes the car to pull left slightly.

 

This would have been so much easier on the machine but they insist on knowing "the figures".

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Take it to a company who knows what there doing new tracking machines have the vw settings the setting vw quote are 0 camber 0 tow track cars can be set 1 to 4 positive camber for better cornering but expect tyre to ware faster

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But since I've already lowered it by 100mm, I don't know what the new figures should be.

The camber can't be adjusted any further anyway which I why I don't understand why all of these figures are needed. It makes no sense if camber can't be adjusted further anyway.

I just wanted them to check the distances from front to rear and then make sure the wheels point in the same direction.

I might do as you said, take it to someone else.

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Had the same thing said when my brother went to get his laser aligned at kwickfit they wouldnt touch it because it was lowered. They advised him to take it to a vw specialist. Begs the question why have an expensive machine if lowered cars cant be aligned on it.

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I might have to take it to a specialist, although I thought these people with the machine were specialists.

It was interesting to read about a skinny bolt which could help the camber get a bit more upright.

It was also interesting to read about only adjusting the tracking from the offside track rod, I didn't know that. My car has been adjusted from both sides, and not only by me. ATS did both sides too, burned through my CV boots whilst putting heat into the locking nuts then left my steering wheel about 20 degrees out, but that's another story.

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I have fitter adjustable camber bolts they are thinner bolts with an offset from eBay 20 quid so it will be easy to set up my mot is Saturday next week replacing wishbone bushes and ball joints then take for alignment

But burning though your cv boots what cowboys are they tell they will replace the boots ??

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Yes, they replaced the boots. It was lucky that I was under the ramp when he did it as he was unaware. Come MOT time I would have had to shell out for new boots and possibly new joints as well.

I won't be going back.

When I was finished there I was £35 down, tracking that was worse than when I went in, steering wheel mis-aligned and two boots replaced that were perfectly fine to begin with.

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I might have to take it to a specialist, although I thought these people with the machine were specialists.

It was interesting to read about a skinny bolt which could help the camber get a bit more upright.

It was also interesting to read about only adjusting the tracking from the offside track rod, I didn't know that. My car has been adjusted from both sides, and not only by me. ATS did both sides too, burned through my CV boots whilst putting heat into the locking nuts then left my steering wheel about 20 degrees out, but that's another story.

 

I wouldn't get too bogged down in the "only adjust from the offside" thing. We have never done that on the race car, nor on any previous Corrado's.

 

Eibach camber bolts are a solid, quick solution if you want more camber but you'll unlikely need them I'd have thought with a 100mm drop, adjustable top-mounts are another solution.

 

Bear in mind with a 100mm drop the wishbone geometry will be miles out so even with well set up tracking it might not feel "as it should".

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Go get your money back if it's not right can't belive they charged you after they made it worse

 

I was so exasperated by the whole experience I just wanted to get away and do it myself.

Now I've got everything as straight as it can be, it still pulls left - which is the problem I wanted to correct in the first place. It's because my subframe is slightly off, I think, so I'll straighten that one day when I can and align the tracking again.

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