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Advice pls - how to remove & fit new idle control valve

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Hi all

 

i have a new idle control valve to fit to my VR & wondered if any of you kind chaps can tell me if they are difficult to remove?

 

I can see it under the rear cowling type thing but not sure what i have to remove to get to it

 

has anyone got any tips or a guide or something that might help pls?

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The ISV on a valver is a doddle to remove/refit as it's exposed so pull plug and undo 2 clips.

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Remove the HT lead covers (easier to remove the HT heads too to get access) and it should be pretty straightforward. You can't really put the leads back incorrectly as the corresponding cylinder is stamped on each coil on the coilpack and if you have OEM leads, they're numbered too :)

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thanks Jim & MZpog :)

 

i was hoping it was just the 2 clips & a connector but wasnt sure if i needed to remove the HT lead cover as well

 

Jim - i have fancy blue magnecor leads which have the little yellow/black cylinder numbers on them & will take a pic first just to be sure ;)

 

glad i brought a lead removal tool a long time ago lol

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Hi,

 

Having also done this recently I can confirm a) that it's easy to do! and b) you don't need to pull the ht leads - the lead holder / cover will spin round out of the way without the need to disconnect either end of any of them!

 

Hope that helps!

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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Ah excellent... hadn't actually changed the ISV on my VR (done it on a valve) but was just trying to visualise where it lived on the VR! Apologies.

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Hi,

 

Having also done this recently I can confirm a) that it's easy to do! and b) you don't need to pull the ht leads - the lead holder / cover will spin round out of the way without the need to disconnect either end of any of them!

 

Hope that helps!

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

winner

 

thanks for that phil, handy to know

 

appreciate all the input people :)

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I think cleaning is overrated, i had a suspect ISV, cleaned it, tested it with 12v refitted it and discounted that as a problem. After much head scratching i bought a "working used example", Cleaned it and tested it and fitted it and still the same issues so defiantly discounted it.

 

Put up with the bad idle for ages, and then removed engine and fitted the new one, checked everything over. Still had the same problem.. Bought a brand new non-genuine ISV (about £40), fitted that and everything solved.

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May i ask why you are replacing your ISV?

Have you not tried cleaning it first?

 

of course you may

 

my mechanic has informed me that it is the motor part of the ICV that has failed, rather than the valve/butterfly being coked up & not opening/closing properly

 

i did also try taking the VR on several long ish runs with some full boot applied to see if it would start to behave again as i am aware that this can happen when a VR is not used for a while

 

plus i got the new one at cost as i work for a motor factors & was of the mindset that even if the old one started to behave it was an indicator if is failing & thus may be wise to just get a new one

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I think cleaning is overrated, i had a suspect ISV, cleaned it, tested it with 12v refitted it and discounted that as a problem. After much head scratching i bought a "working used example", Cleaned it and tested it and fitted it and still the same issues so defiantly discounted it.

 

Put up with the bad idle for ages, and then removed engine and fitted the new one, checked everything over. Still had the same problem.. Bought a brand new non-genuine ISV (about £40), fitted that and everything solved.

 

for those reasons above i thought best to just get a new one too lol

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What price should it have been from your company?

 

they are around £140 having had a look on ebay etc

 

i got for £75 + vat

 

fitted on saturday & it fixed the issue on first turn of key

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