potatonet 0 Posted July 15, 2004 now I know where the leak is, how many hours will it take my mechanic??? or should I do it myself? well it is pretty neato, I like my blown headgasket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
randal 0 Posted July 15, 2004 Nows the time (and the perfect excuse), to get all that head work done... Full rebuild Big bore valves Porting Flowing New cambelt/tensioner Inlet Manifold flowing Exhaust manifold flowing Oh, might as well replace that gasket too :lol: Wouldn't like to say how much the work will cost you (not the above, just getting it running again) Because you don't know what damage awaits you underneath. You won't get any accurate figure until they've inspected it. HTH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 15, 2004 which engine have you got? That makes a HUGE difference on the time and costs... :roll: For reference, I've just done the head on my G60 (again, long story as to why) but in all, it's cost about £130 + £25 machining costs to get the head back onto the car (I actually spent £50 on machining 'cos I needed something else done too ;) ) I did all the work myself and it took me 2 evenings... one to strip it all apart, and one to put it all back together again... ALL parts are genuine VW (including coolant.... :roll: - don't ask! ) I have no idea how much parts are in America compared with over here though... :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woody 0 Posted July 15, 2004 john 16vg60 did g60 in about 8 hours after 4 hours mucking about with snapped bolts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
potatonet 0 Posted July 15, 2004 Yeah I looked at just parts for the car, its about 400 US dollars but the includes, copper headgasket, new head bolts, new head studs by ARP, new cam lifters (mine slap), camshaft seals, intake gasket, I think that was all, but thats just parts, two evenings huh? how hard is it to get the studs and bolts out, should I leave the stock G60 studs? and I do need it to be machined, probably just to get the warp out of it. but I think I will probably port and polish the bad boy too, bigger valves are worthless probably the port and polish too, I am doing a 16V conversion on the thing soon, wish I could do it now but I cant, too much money. how and should I clean the pistons while I am in there, I dont know what to use to clean them. but I could do it over a weekend? not too bad beats 900 dollars toward the mechanic, just like my heater core. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
potatonet 0 Posted July 15, 2004 anyone got a good website or instructions for replacing the headgasket I have a bentley but I think I could use better instructions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trilidon 0 Posted August 8, 2004 I actually think i have a blown head gasket as well =/ Soo, ya wouldn't mind some tips or instructions or what not as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
potatonet 0 Posted August 9, 2004 Yeah mine was blown I just fixed the thing yesterday. New COPPER headgasket from BBM gotta use lotsa sealant. the head was remilled and the cover was dipped and glass beaded, same as the intake manifold, it looks sooo cherry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trilidon 0 Posted August 9, 2004 is copper better then the multilayer metal one? Whats the sealant stuff ^_^? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
potatonet 0 Posted August 9, 2004 yes the copper is better for the headgasket because it is solid copper, it doesnt blow nearly as much as the crappy fabric stuff. its meant for high boost applications, being that I am pushing 18 lbs of boost with a 65mm pulley I kinda needed something that would last. permatex makes a copper gasket sealant with copper inside, its tacky forms a good bond. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites