Red=Fast 0 Posted July 20, 2004 here is the thread that is explaining everything. please help me out if you can... THE POST: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeropost?cmd ... id=1457712 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 20, 2004 Picture1 = standard UK 1.8 16V throttle body... there should be a switch underneith it for the idle position which is what that connector is for. Picture2 = fuel pressure switch. This is to make sure that the fuel system stays pressurised when the car is off so that it'll start when you want it to... shouldn't matter if it's not connected and won't make the car run as rich as it sounds like yours is... Picture3 = no idea.... probably something to do with your mad emission laws so we don't have it over here... :| Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red=Fast 0 Posted July 20, 2004 the forum was update. check it out. see what you think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted July 20, 2004 OK, if you're running a G60's management with a new chip (SNS I believe) then there's only a few certain things that'd make it idle and fuel this badly... Ignore oil temp senders, oil pressure senders, black water temp sender, fan run on temp switch (used to live above and to the left of the FPR on the G60 engine as you look at it from the front), full throttle switch (SNS chips ignore it anyway! ;) ), and fuel pressure switch (pic2), they're not read by the ECU so won't be causing your problem... Check this lot... Timing/ engine condition - If you're sure that the timing's OK, also check the dizzy to make sure that it's OK... It's amazing how screwed up the running can be if the timing's badly out... (including the cam timing both on the cam-belt and on the cam chain between the 2 cams...) Blue temp sensor - This wouldn't do it on it's own, but won't help if there's other things wrong as well this being dead. Idle switch - If it's not telling the ECU it's at idle it'll do all sorts of odd things to the idle speed and mixture, but ONLY at idle... Vacuum hose to the ECU - MUST have a PRE throttle butterfly vacuum/pressure connection and MUST be 100cm long with good connections on each end. Also the internal diameter is important too, so it must be a certain type of hose.... Will run like a sack of sh!t if this is wrong with the fuelling being all over the show Vacuum sytem in general - Leaky or blocked vacuum system/missing pipes will cause the timing to be off, and could cause the ECU pipe to not receive a decent pressure signal via it's vacuum pipe causing all sorts of crap running.... Lambda sensor - will make the car run slightly rich if this is wrong as the ECU will assume Lambda =1 if the sensor is dead and put more fuel into the system than is needed, although this shouldn't be enough to cause the problems you're having.... CO pot - if it's a new one, then leave it alone... it should be around the right value anyway, and shouldn't be sooo rich that it causes this problem... FPR - Yeah, I know it's a new one, but sh!t happens and you may have got a duff one... Replace with your old one to see if it makes it better, worse or no difference... Personally, this smells of bad cam timing to me coupled with a possible dead vacuum connector/leak... :| Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red=Fast 0 Posted July 21, 2004 updated on the link. we make some progress =] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
