URGENT-replacing lambda probe

[n8047035 0]

Hello all,

 

Ive just got hold of my new lambda sensor and need to fit. I just had a look under my bonnet, and completely a complete novice, i didnt want to do any damage. How do i go about removing the old one and replacing it with the new one?

 

I saw the black clip/plug thingy with the wires coming from it, but where does the rest of the probe lie?

 

Also, ive seen some threads on here about an O2 sensor,where do i locate that? Its just i need to get my car running properly again and not stalling everytime i pull up to a junction!

 

Quick replies would be appreciated so i can get to it asap!

 

Many thanks

[Tempest 0]

Its just i need to get my car running properly again and not stalling everytime i pull up to a junction!

Quick solution: Just disconnect the black plug that you've correctly identified, and drive around for a bit without the faulty sensor connected till you've got time to do the following:

 

Open bonnet, feed cable from Lambdaprobe (still disconnected I hope) down to below the car, so that you can pull it away once you're undernath. Jack up car, get underneath near the Cat or bypass pipe, using a size 17 spanner, best use a ring spanner, get the spanner around the Lambaprobe (sits almost at the top of the Cat, what an awkward place :x ), and hope the thing will come out, need to apply a bit of force :lol: Mine then came out nicely 8)

 

Screw in new probe, possibly use a bit of anti-seize paste (copperpaste) on the thread only, tighten up, feed cable back up the engine bay again to where the bracket for the connector is located. Reconnect the connector and done :D

 

O2-Sensor is the term for a Lambdaprobe often used in the US, hence it's the same thing as a Lambdaprobe :)

 

Tempest

[Andy T 0]

Yup its an awkward job, you might need a lamp under there to see what your doing, if you have different sizes/types of spanner try em all because there's not alot of room, you might also need a tube/bar to get some extra leverage if its seized.

 

On my G60 it was either a 21 or 22m spanner :?:

 

whatever you do, don't drop or knock the probe, they're very sensitive!

[Tempest 0]

On my G60 it was either a 21 or 22m spanner

 

Yeah you might be right there :oops: I usually take a whole bunch with me for any such job anyway, then just grab and apply till it fits :lol:

 

Tempest

[n8047035 0]

thanks guys, thats really helpful. I shall get to that asap.

 

Much appreciated 8)

 

Amrik

[n8047035 0]

hi guys,

 

I unclipped the probe this evening and went for a drive. The car kept on cutting out as when the probe was plugged in, but probably slightly more often. I take it that means that the problem isnt due to my lambda? Can anybody shed any light onto the situation. I did notice when i unclipped the probe, that there wasnt a wire running from the black clip and bolted onto the bracket, whereas the replacement one i have has this. Could this be the problem?

[kongo127 0]

Yes!

That can be your problem.

That wire is the ground connection.

[Tempest 0]

4 wires: 2 white ones (heater), 1 signal wire (purple), and a brown one which connects to the bracket that the conector is held onto (GND-shield). But if you're saying that with the probe disconnected the engine still keeps on cutting out, I'd start suspecting the blue temp-sender. When I had a faulty Lambdaprobe, disconnecting it made the Rado run fine again, a bit uneconomical possibly on the fuel consumption, but it ran fine.

 

Tempest

[n8047035 0]

Ok guys,

 

I finally got round to replacing the lambda and the car still keeps cutting out, virtually everytime i dip clutch for any length of time. It also seems to be really chucking out loads of black smoke when i accelerate hard (the times when it decides to pull) cos other times it takes ages to kick in. Anybody got any other ideas on what i can do?

 

Its just been serviced, and i have replaced both temp sensors and the lambda. Could it be a timing problem?

[Tempest 0]

Yup, that would be my next suggestion. Check the timing with a gun, should be 6 degrees BTDC (was retarded on my Rado when I recently did the timing :shock: , made a huge difference getting it back to spec again), otherwise what's the resistance reading on your CO-pot? Could also be that your engine is running far too rich. Typical value for an unmodded G60 should be around the 500 Ohms mark.

 

Tempest

[n8047035 0]

Thanks for that.

 

How do i rectify if the engine is running rich? I have noticed massive difference in economy and also can smell unburned petrol when i get out of the car. As for the timing issue, is that something that i'll need to go to the dealers for, or can I do a DIY job?