1.8l 16v out, g60 16v in ..?

[LJ 0]

Say someone I knew found out that their G60 chassis wasn't as straight as it should be. Lets call him Bob.

What would Bob need to swap over from the G60 C into a high mileage 1.8l 16v C to get the same setup. Bob's trying to dig himself out of the very big hole he got himself into when he bought the car, thinking he couldn't let a tatty G60 go to waste.

 

Would Bob need to look at changing; fuel tank and pump, engine loom, ECU, everything attached to and including the engine (drive shafts etc), front and rear brakes, master cylinder?, gearbox, front wish bones?, rear beam? Anything else?

Bob is also thinking that if this was done then it would be a fine time to rebuild the PG block for the 16v G60 conversion to except the valvers head :lol:

 

Bob suffers from The Voices and they tell him of many paths he could take, but which is the righteous one?

Forget that the front nearside castor and rear offside camber are buggered on the G60, tweek it and see how it handles on track.

Do the above car swap and get some cash back from breaking the iffy G60 shell panels.

Sell the G60 and start again with a proper G60, but loose face and money.

Sell the G60 and build a 2.0l 16v'd Mk2.

 

LJ, friend of Bob and one of the Voices.

 

Ps. Sorry for that, head hurts from too much freakin' software hacking and the w/e can't come soon enough.

[Henny 0]

Are you absolutely sure it's the chassis that's bent, or could it be just the rear beam and front wishbones? Swapping in a new rear beam isn't difficult at all (and is a good excuse to put in new bushes at the same time!) and front wishbones ain't difficult or expensive either...

 

The easiest way of doing the swap would be to unbolt all of the mechanicals from the front end from each car and swap 'em over (similar to how PhatVR6 swapped his 8V for his VR6) as that's the least amount of farting about... you'd still need to change the engine loom and the dash clocks, but this isn't too bad a job to do... shouldn't take too much time to do that either, you'd probably be able to do it in a weekend if you have the space and have done semi-difficult mechanical stuff before... 8) Nothing at the rear end would need to be changed as the rear is the same on both G60 and 16V Corrados. The fuel pump would be the only difference, but seeing as the 16V pump is higher pressure than the G60's that won't be a problem using the 16V one either.

[LJ 0]

Henny, I had an expensive tracking alignment done and that's what showed up the dodgy corners :(

Haven't got the figures with me, but the rear camber is not too bad out. Toe was within limits. So will try two new front wishbones and see if that cures the front corner 8) Bushes are probably knackered by now anyway.

At first I was :D to have a C again, but now I want a really clean C :!:

[Henny 0]

if it's only just out then it sounds like a slightly bent axle rather than a bent shell... possibly a previous rear blow out or heavily clipped curb could do that... could even just be a slightly bent stub axle! :)

 

Get it down to someone who knows Corrados and get a proper health check done on it.. Personally, I'd get it booked into Stealth to get Vince or his boys to give it a once over before deciding to take on that much work for something which could be as simple as a pair of £30 front wishbones and a £20 rear stub axle! ;) :lol:

 

Expensive tracking/alignment is great in showing up incorrect settings which aren't quite in tollerance, but gives you bugger all idea what the causes are... A bent chassis would normally throw the settings out a LOOOONNNGGG way (trust me on this one, I've written off a Corrado by twisting the shell :oops: )