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Fitting 9" wide 17" PORSCHE Wheels

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Hi guys, does anyone know whether fitting 9" wide rear porsche wheels would be a problem on a late corrado (fitting on the rear) :?:

 

I am planning to fit 215 40 17 rubber and will be getting 20mm thick spacer adapters (offset of wheels are ET 52).

 

I believe the car has been slightly lowered (has blue springs..i dunno what make they are), will i need to install uprated bump stops to prevent the wheels rubbing the arches :?: :?:

 

Thanks

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I would fit 215/35/17 tyres to give you more clearance

 

if the wheels are et52 then with the addapers they will be et32, that maybe ok, depending on how close the inside rim is to the strut, are the struts standard?

 

It will be a good idea to fit coilovers

 

you will also have to trim the wheel arch lip right back, so there is no lip there atall

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I

 

you will also have to trim the wheel arch lip right back, so there is no lip there atall

 

Nah, roll them back. If your going to do it, do it properly.

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im giving my car to a guy next week for the arches to be modified as my car tyres are catching / hitting and scraping all the time when there are people in the car, especially when there are people and it is full of fuel and over bumps etc. He said that he will have to grind the lip away from the arches from the inside, because if he tries to fold them, they will crease the outside.

 

im confused. anyone got any experience?

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im giving my car to a guy next week for the arches to be modified as my car tyres are catching / hitting and scraping all the time when there are people in the car, especially when there are people and it is full of fuel and over bumps etc. He said that he will have to grind the lip away from the arches from the inside, because if he tries to fold them, they will crease the outside.

 

im confused. anyone got any experience?

 

 

Yeah, i think your guys right, the back lips are so strong that if you start to try and fold the inner lips up, it will end up creasing the outside

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Hi I wouldnt grind the lip on the back arch away as thats the point where the innner and outer arch is joined.

I suppose if its done properly in a body shop then it can be sealed and finished properly but I would watch as you could end up with rust if its not done properly :!:

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I suppose if its done properly in a body shop then it can be sealed and finished properly but I would watch as you could end up with rust if its not done properly :!:

 

Still say roll them. It's cheaper to grind them now and touch them up but 12 months down the line when the paint starts to bubble 10mm away from the edge (think its the heat which causes this) you'll wish you'd done the job properly.

 

BTW, Daz yates had his arches rolled at premier and they didn't crack the paint.

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I still think the outside arch will start to deform when you try and fold the inner lips.

 

I dunno...maybe they willl fold up a little bit without deforming the outside arch but then you still might have clearance problems, and with 9", you'll need all the clearance you can get

 

I was gunna roll mine intill someone explained to me, then when i thought about it, it does make sense not to

 

But hey thats just my opinion

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I still think the outside arch will start to deform when you try and fold the inner lips.

 

I dunno...maybe they willl fold up a little bit without deforming the outside arch but then you still might have clearance problems, and with 9", you'll need all the clearance you can get

 

I was gunna roll mine intill someone explained to me, then when i thought about it, it does make sense not to

 

But hey thats just my opinion

 

Sounds like your trying to talk yourself into grinding the lips away on your own C. Phat got his done properly for £450, its worth it.

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I still think the outside arch will start to deform when you try and fold the inner lips.

 

I dunno...maybe they willl fold up a little bit without deforming the outside arch but then you still might have clearance problems, and with 9", you'll need all the clearance you can get

 

I was gunna roll mine intill someone explained to me, then when i thought about it, it does make sense not to

 

But hey thats just my opinion

 

Sounds like your trying to talk yourself into grinding the lips away on your own C. Phat got his done properly for £450, its worth it.[/quote:6ae86]

 

 

Your right lee, i am planing to cut back the lips, to make clearance for the 9s i have. Would love to do what you and phat have done, and £450 is a very good deal, not sure if i would be able to get it that cheap, but even £450, i cant afford it at the moment.

 

It is something i plan to do in the future if i go wider, so i think i'll wait till then, then they'll be able to shape the arches to the wider rims i put on the car

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I test fitted one the other day, the arch will just about clear the tyre.

 

Maybe in a year or so, ill be able to do what you a phat have done and get it done properly, but i was still pleased with the way it looks at the moment.

 

Heres some pics:

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would you all like to really know how to do it, you have to de-weld the inner wheel, this is only meant for porsche look alike wheels, porsche does have some welded wheels and some one piece wheels, depends on what car they are from. if they are welded you can tell. DOING THIS TO A REAL PORSCHE WHEEL IS VERY HARD! You will need to have a shop align and section the wheel, I did this for a VW beetle once, they came out perfect in the end couldnt tell they werent supposed to be there. Porsche uses TIG, Tungsten Inert Gas, Welds on all of their wheels and every weld ont their cars, THIS IS TOUGH AS SHIT AND EXPENSIVE TO REDO! before you attempt this take a welding class unless you know someone with a tig welder and lots of experience. When you get it apart, then you need to measure and chop the size section out of the INNER part of the wheel please dont do this yourself, take it to a shop and have them cut it so that it is perfectly lined up. Clean both sides up and weld again, make sure while you do this that the rim is perfectly aligned or you will feel a nice wobble on the road. what we did is we line drilled and fitted studs into 8 points around the wheel. drill the other side and place together, at this point you need to compress the wheel together, then weld. we used a tire intaller to do the weld due to the fact that the rim spins freely, it worked out great, we have taken them upwards of 120 mph and they were fine. the problem with rolling is that they crease and then break, there goes an expensive wheel. it costs about 1250 for all the labor and time and supplies to do this to all 4 wheels.

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