mariovr6

i think the reason it took 3 months is due to the guy who hit me not reporting it so the company must pay if there is no report by then!! its a long and crappy thing and while all this is going on my car is collecting rust due to some bits having the paint removed!! also the cheek of the inspection guy, he said my car is not not legal coz the bumper is slightly sticking out and the wheel arch has a slight sharp bit!! so fare enough i said il get a hire car from them? he said NO cos i can move the bumber back into place so i did thsts fine with me... then and heres the bit that annoyed me he said get a hammer and hit the wheel arch back in so it doesnt stick out?? and that seems to be there reason for no hire car?? yeah like im gonna start hitting my arch the other way when it would make it near impossible to panel beat into place after that!

it seems me and poll250 and having the same problem though my accedent happend 3 months ago and they have only made there first offer today i sent them 3 adds for like for like corrado's ( vr6 L reg ect) and they point blank turned it down claiming mine is worth £1800 so retain salvage at £1440 to me its more about having the car not a write off as the repair is £2400 main dealers id take less and fixed it myself but with no write off on its name!!!!!! Today is a very good day for getting prices of vw corrado's vr6 L reg's off the AUTOTRADER the cheapest is £3400 going up to £5600 ive just printed out a s++t load!!!!! due to this delay ive lost money on the road tax , insurance, res permit, mot and i will mention this to them... also going to ave to get new road tax and insurance at end of month and my car will still b in no mans land!!!!!!!!! its been so long im driving a crappy clio lol and its got to the point where i dont care nomore il take it all the way to much time has gone to worry about another couple of months.......... ALSO Y DONT GLASSES CAR GUIDES VALUE CARS OLDER THEN 96? THATS WHERE NORWICH UNION ARE MENT TO GET THERE PRICES FROM???

IM in the same boat mate my car was hit 3 months ago buy a lorry the rear wheel arch and side of bumper was damaged but repairable without changing the arch. said the repair would be £2300 with new bumper and arch the guy who came to estemate the repair for norwich union value my car at £1800 and a total loss got a letter today saying KEEP THE CAR AND TAKE £1440.............. MINE A 1994 VR6 FULL LEATHER AIRCON THE WORKS I SENT THEM AUTOTRADER ADDS BUT THEY AINT HAVING IT? Id take 1600 and not have the car a write off coz i no i can get it fixed for alot less but im not willing to have my car as a write off for 1440 what more should i do?

i looked under the bonnet but cant see what 3 bolts are ment to be removed?

ok il try and bypass it tommorrow if i dont get round to getting the whole thing out will a copper pipe do?

i have looked at the knowledge base but cant see whats ment to be removed yes it does have air and i think thats making it even harder as there are 2 thick pipes running between the heater blower and matrex box so i cant see much

hey ive removed plasic under the glove box and removed the glove box but cant see what im ment to remove next? im assuming to my left in the round plastic is the heater fan and to the right the black plasic square box is where id find the matrix?............. what do i do next? how do i this thing out? there is water in the square box so assume it is a leaking metrix?

what does that mean its blown?

today i was driving along when i got a nasty shock steam started flying out of my heater vents, it was like i was boiling a kettle inside my car????? turned the car off n it carried on for about 5 mins..... what the hell caused this to happen?

hmmmmmmm never thought of that way to get to the bolt......... sounds interesting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! cheers o yeah had a real pain in the ass trying to get that oil cooler seal to sit in one place( burnt my arm many times) heres my tip PLACE A RUBBER BAD AROUND THE OIL COOLER... SLIDE THE SEAL UNDER THE RUBBER BAD AND IN PLACE......... GET THE OIL COOLER IN PLACE AND TIGHTEN BOLT SLIGHTLY.... ONCE ITS TOUCHING REMOVER THE RUBBER BAND! TOOK ME 2 HOURS OF TRYING BEFORE I TRIED THAT ONE AND AFTER ALL THAT ITS THE ITS THE SENSOR THAT ARE THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!! HELP

just put a new seal on the oil cooler and after all that trouble getting the ring to fit :twisted: it turns out its coming from elsewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its looks like its coming from the top of the upper oil filter housing maybe from a senor? is it senors that sit in the top of the oil filter housing? if so how the hell do i get to them?

hey just wondered , do i need to drain all the oil out of the sump before changing the oil cooler seal? on a vr6 its higher then the sump so i hope it want need to b done correct??

the filters are always vw main dealers............. and they either read part num 021 115 562A OR 021 115 562B think vw get confused at times. dont help me much though

just checked the filters and there all 021 115 562 except that tey all ave either A or B AFTER THAT do gsf sell the cooler seals?

ok first in reply to TIMO yep the mibile 1 was 0/40 ... i know its a risk and maybe silly in a old vr6 but even with the 10/40 santa it was the same..... Yes it is coming from just above the filter housing BUT it seems to b coming from the metal filter housing, the part you screw the filter holder into( the metal bit joint onto the engine block) perhaps it is the oil cooler seals, at a glance it seems to be coming from the bolts holding the filter block on......... OK as for SUPERCHANRGED god know whats happening with my filter all i know is there always from VW main dealers and they always have a letter at the end and weather it ends in a A or b they really aint the same!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ehy does everyone say the oil cooler fings are easy to chage? i cant even see the thing half the time.......... :twisted: