Staffan

Thank you for the clarification:) Linguistic confusion!! Yes I am also out of interest what failed my g lader.

OK The timing belt (18 mm) on the charger is in very good condition. What do you mean "out of interest"????

Timing belt and timing is checked and ok. It started and re- started real easy and the idling was perfect. It revved up 3500 rpm as it should. Could the symtoms cause the breakdown?

I finally found a used, but according to seller, well working g lader. I´m going to tear it apart and renovate it. But before installing it I got to figure out what made the old one break down? Is it possible that the symtoms on my car was due to a failing charger? What confuses me is that the gauge showed 1,5 bar while the engine lost its power. I don´t want to risk exploding a newly renovated g lader. First thing to check is the exhaust and cat.

I would like to buy a G60 charger, G-lader. If it needs service its no problem.

Seems logic. When I found another grader I´ll definitely get a good gauge.

I shall absolutely check that. Right now I don´t even want to see the car.

Thanks for the interesting info.I will absolutely look into this.

I know, g- lader prices are ridiculous. I would like to have a turbo instead but isn´t it difficult to make it work with all that stonage electronic and sh*t on the Corrado?

Yep those figures were before my problems started and now I have got some serious problems. My G-lader broke down totally today. I´m talking major breakdown. So now I´m on G-lader hunt and hopefully my earlier problems get solved with a fresh lader. Any idea where to find one at a descent price. I´ve looked at eBay but the prices are unbelievable. Thank you guys for your time trying to help me out

I had these values checked at the annual inspection three weeks ago: CO at idle: 0,09%, above 2000rpm: 0,20%, HC: 21 PPM, Co2: 1,03 The car passed the inspection with these values so I guess they are good.

Thank you so much for your very interesting reply. My gauge is connected between the throttle body and the cylinder head on the FPR line.I will hunt down some Volvo freaks to see if they know what kind of gauge I should get. You are absolutely spot on that the idle would be suffering if there was a vacuum leak. I have done some measuring: Co pot 790 Ohms Blue coolant sensor 3530 Ohms ISV 4,1 Ohms O2 sensor 0,190-0,570 Volts, 0,570 with cold engine and falling to 0, 190 as the engine gets warmer. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, no difference at all. Next thing is checking the timing belt. I´m so grateful for all the help I can get and I´ll be more than happy to update.

Checked CO pot today it was 790 OHM. Swapped black and blue coolant sensor plugs and no difference. Still looking for a good boost gauge. I have started to put in new vacuum lines.

Thanks for reply. Will check the sensors and and CO pot asap. Have checked throttle switch, it was OK. I´m monitoring the boost from a pretty cheap on dash gauge. I have some suspicion that the gauge is not 100%. It was mounted in the car when I bought it

It is not easy to describe the problem in a foreign language, I sure hope you understand my English. It seem like the the engine looses power as soon as the g-lader starts loading. The loss gets more significant over 0,5 bar, no matter what the rpm is. Over 1 bar( it is not supposed to load over 1,0 bar) it´s really bad, no power at all. If I drive and third gear and hit the throttle hard, the boost gauge goes up real quick. As soon as I ease of the throttle it runs smoother The idling is perfect and it starts real easy. It runs really smooth when it´s not charging. It seems like the powerloss increases when it is hot. The spark plugs get really black and they smell of fuel.