cossywraps

The ignition relay is on the fuse box which is behind the underdash pocket on the right of the steering column. The relays should be labelled in your owners manual. If the relay is working you should be able to hear the relay click when you turn the ignition before the starter motor engages...but if you've had all your relays replaced it seems unlikely this is the problem.. Dom

Lockey, I did eventually fix my C, in hind sight it would seem that the original problem was a faulty ignition relay which caused my ECU to overload and stop working properly. Although I didn't pick up on the dodgy relay until after I'd had the ECU repaired (at a cost of £200!) so as soon as I put it back in it broke again. After changing the relay the car would work intermittently so I opened up the ECU myself to find a blown transistor, I got my electronic engineer work mates to solder in a new one which cost me the grand total of 6p and hey presto my C is back on the road. :D I'm not sure any of the above is of help to you, but good luck with it.

Well it turns that it's actually RAC autowindscreens that will do the work. Before I go ahead I just wanted to check that for those of you who have claimed through their insurance that it hasn't effected your premium the following year. I'll keep my no claims but will the fact I've made a claim cause it to go up anyway? cheers Dom

thanks for advice I've just checked my insurance and it it looks like I am covered (£50 excess) but the work has to be carried out by Glassline or if done elsewhere at a cost no more than glassline charge. Anyone used glassline before? Dom

:( My windscreen has a 60cm snake shaped crack in it due to what sounded like only a small stoning hitting the passenger side. Can anyone recommend somewhere for me to get it replaced, preferably in the South somewhere but am willing to travel if the place is well recommended. tia Dom

Well I just thought I'd let you all know I've finally had a bit of progress with identifying my (G60) problems. After more testing me and a mate eventually found that the ECU wasn't getting a high enough voltage when the multipoint connector is physically attached to the ECU (there was 12V when unplugged though!). This led us to find a dodgy ECU relay which seemed to be working ok but must have had a duff resistor or something because replacing that now means I have a spark and ISV buzz. However it still wouldn't start because for some reason the fuel pump wasn't working :roll: A quick check of the fuel pump relay showed that it works and the fuel pump is ok as it runs when the terminals on the relay are jumpered. I decided to try and start the car with the fuel pump relay sellotaped (so that it is constantly on) and bingo it starts :D . I go for a quick drive and all is well.....or so I thought until I park and try and pull the relay out to stop the fuel pump constantly going, somehow I managed to create a spark and the next thing I know the fuse box is on fire :shock: thank heavens I had a fire extinguisher in the car and the only damage was to the terminals on the fuse box at the fuel pump relay. Definitely not my finest hour. So if anyone knows of a fusebox/block going begging please let me know. In the meantime I've opened up the ECU to find a blown transitor which might be a cause for the fuel pump not working as the ECU. Thanks for all the suggestions of fixes, hopefully I'm getting closer to being back on the road.....

Well I'm not sure it's the ignition switch now, as turning the key harder doesn't make a difference and all electrics work normally with the ignition on. .. I've found however that the transfer pump doesn't audibly run when the ignition is on, checked the relay and wiring to it and the pump is getting a voltage it just doesn't work. I therefore might assume I need a new one, however surely a duff pump wouldn't stop there being a spark or indeed the ISV from buzzing? Or is it possible that because I'm not getting fuel the ECU decides not to generate a spark??? I don't really know where to go from here, so any suggestions or recommendations for a good VW specialist in the South are much appreciated. thanks Dom

thanks for the help much appreciated. I think you may well be right about the ignition switch because I don't seem to be getting power to the ECU connector at terminal 1 which leads from the ignition switch (although I get power to the other terminals?). I'll try turning the key hard to see if that makes a difference, otherwise do you now of a test to make sure it's the ignition switch? many thanks Dom

I'm currently at a loss as to why my C won't start (cranks but no spark), after ruling everything else out I narrowed it down to the ECU. I sent this off to be repaired and they said it looked like a bad earth had caused the ECU to overload. I've now got the 'repaired' ECU back and checked all ground connections I could find but it still won't start :cry: . The problem seems to be that the distributor isn't getting the correct voltage (only 2V, instead of 12V?), I've checked the wiring from the ecu connector and it seems fine. It's been suggested that it could be the ignition coil as it is not pulsing, but I assume this is because the distributor isn't pulsing because it doesn't have the correct voltage... Another reason why I don't think it's the coil is that the ISV doesn't buzz as it should when the ignition is on. The car is fitted with a VW logic 900 immobiliser could this be causing the problem? I have been unable to drive my C for 3 months now and am getting really quite desperate... Any help very much appreciated. thanks Dom '91 black G60

thanks for the website, it does sound like the cheapest option. I've just towed the C to VW garage for them to check the ECU tomorrow. If it is duff I'll definitely be using that website. Dom

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it tonight although I now fear it may be the ECU as there is now power to the ISV either. Anyone know of a cheap source of G60 ECU's?

My 91 G60 cranks over but doesn't produce a spark from the ignition coil. Things I've checked and seem ok are: Ignition coil HT leads Wiring to ECU I checked the hall sender and this is getting The car is fitted with a VW logic 900 imobiliser which hasn't been serviced in a long time, could this cause the problem? Any other suggestions for things to check or thankfully received. TIA Dom :?