mr_fusion

Lol... feel like an idiot now! Turns out that I hadn't properly tightend up the drivers side front wheel bolts, hence the car exhibiting the problem of shot wheel bearings Nipped them up tight and drives smooth again... As they say.. the simplest explaination is generally the correct one....

Hi Guys I was just about to start another thread concerning my Weitec Hicon GT coilovers installed this weekend as I am having similar problems. Everything seems to be installed correctly although the front ride height is a little uneven, but I am also hearing knocking noises when driving the car. It is a regular knock that seems to occur at wheel speed (i,e speed related and rotational sounding), the knocking only happens when not accelerating though i.e either letting off the power and letting the engine slow the car down or when braking or when the clutch is in) I am suspecting wheel bearing / driveshaft area as the source of the noise although car was fine before swapping out the suspension. Is it possible hat with out a proper wheel alignment that the front wheel(s) aren't running true and causing uneven load on the bearings? The front bearings only have about 1000 miles on them. Any other possible causes?

me and my rotrex are happy with the 6 branch, although i think the decat makes more of a difference to the system as a whole... To be honest though my whole exhaust system was on its last legs at the time so Magnex + decat + 6 branch was the sensible option. There is also the weight saving aspect to consider too...

I wrapped all 6 branches and the main downpipe as well (using some steel locking bands to secure the wrap). Its a bit of a fiddly job and best wear gloves as you'll be itching and scratching for hours afterwards otherwise. in regards to your other comments, I can't really say either way as I have spates of visiting the forum regularly and other times I can go for weeks without visiting... in general though I think 99.9% of people on here are mature, helpful souls and this forum has been a godsend to myself and many others over the years. I can't see any of the usual suspects holding any illwill against any forum member, unless they have been particularly rude or deprecating of others comments... I wouldn't worry too much mate

where is it arcing specifically? I have a dizzy so don't suffer the oe coilpack weaknesses others have (just have my own set of mechanical "wear items" such as the dizzy cap and rotor etc) I have found that arcing in the past has been due to knicks in the plug boots or the cables themselves. Arcing coilpack end would be the standard cracked coilpack scenario (so many others have experienced) If you don't have the proper plug lead removal tool I know from experience that its harder to seat the leads on the plugs (there should be a definate "clunk" as they push down on the plugs and are making a sound electrical connection) Otherwise it should be a closed electrical feed with no potential for arcing... unless maybe a moisture issue?

Greatest benefit from a 6 branch comes if you are running forced induction of some kind. A good tip is to get some heat wrap as well while you at it as the steel of the manifold is much thinner than stock and keeping as much heat in it as possible will help keep the engine bay temps down and also increase flow in the exhaust as the hotter fumes will flow more quickly than cooler ones due to some scientific principal i have forgotten the name of.. this kind of thing.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... c6fffd5c1d

I did this recently, pretty easy job and better if combined with fitting a mocal or similar upgrades in that area. I accomplished it just by jacking the engine up a few inches after removing the front mount bolt and loosening the rear. I found that applying some silicone sealant the end of the pipe that goes into the block was a good idea and also made it easier to get a good fit as it lubricated the joint before it cured. Defo a good idea to replace the thermostat housing if you are doing this jon though as it gets very brittle with age and will literally fall apart in your hands if not very careful... only £15 or so from GSF

I would recommend some "Blue Igniter" HT leads while you are at it.. slightly more expensive than OEM but much better and long lasting. Then can be had from C&R Enterprises at - http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/ £77.50 + p&p for coilpack version. They can also make up extra custom leads for you if you do damage one. which is nice. ps. also check for arcing from the plug ends of the current leads against the head. If you start the car in the dark and look down the spark plug holes you will see them arcing if they are breaking down. If this is bad you will misfire on that cylinder.

Hi Craig Glad to see you still have the interest. I only recently got going on mine again and have got quite far along with it now. Go a DTA P8 Pro ready to fit as well now as I still have overfueling issues at the moment.. hopefully this will all be on the car in the coming weeks. I relocated my battery to the boot. Quite a simple job and not that pricey. Basically picked up some really thick flexible welding cable from ebay (4 metres if i remember correctly), made an MDF box (with hinged lid and breather hole) to hold the battery securely and fastened that to the boot floor with some metal brackets. There is a 200amp circuit breaker attached to the box to isolate the supply if the cable shorts on the body. The cable is routed inside the car, under the rear seats and down under the handbrake etc, then up under the dash to behind the glovebox. There was already a hole in the firewall here, so i routed it through there. This then goes directly to the starter motor. From here I hooked up another wire (red) to just below and behind the washer bottle where there is a distribution point / box. I then use this to tap of the 12v supply to the ancillary parts (all the wires that used to go directly to the battery positive terminal). The battery itself is earthed in the boot. I did this by drilling a whole in the inside panel (below and to the right of the fuel filler cap). and bolting the negative battery cable to this point (best to file of some of the interior paint at this point to get a good earth) I have had a no-start problem recently (which Kev has helped me out with). Ended up replacing most of the ignition components and it all turned out to the sparkplugs in the end. This came about after I fitted my secret custom intake manifold project that I have been keeping quiet about that I fabricated over christmas! This is one thing to watch with running larger injectors on stock map as its really easy to flood the engine if the car isn't firing easily.. took me a month to realise the plugs were soaked in fuel after all the failed attempts to turn the engine over. I will probably get some new pics of the engine bay up shortly as it looks drastically different now.... Cheers

Has anyone seen this box of tricks? Hooks up to the LC-1 as well to control fueling.. http://www.maftpro.com/tgen2info.shtml I take it its something along the same lines as your Crazyfilter dave? Can be had for £160 shipped.... is it worth the cash?

Got the boot gauge installed and had a couple of runs with laptop logging the lc-1 output. Had a potter around town with a few spirited bursts on the throttle, seeing about 7.5psi before I have to slow down (major problem living in central london!) Defo running too rich still, not sure if this can be fixed without remap / standalone though... Here are a few pics of the install (and the LC-1 log file if anyone wants to take a look and is able to read it, you will need to rename the extension to .log (from .txt) as i can't upload .log files for some reason):

Ok then... Got the LC-1 Wideband installed today - coupled with the resistor mod for the MAF, all seems to be running very smoothly now. So far I have tweaked the resistor to show circa 1v at idle on the MAF, I think due to the larger injectors the AFR is settling at around 13.5 (rather than 14.7) and is running a tad rich across the RPM range (better than lean though), seems to be behaving though.. slides to rich on acceleration, then swings right over to lean when coming off the throttle as the injectors are cut, then back to 13.5 again. I hope to get a log from the LC-1 tomorrow to upload for second opinions on how the ECU is dealing with the wideband (narrowband emulation to ecu) and the overall fueling. Currently running through the chargecooler with out any water running through it and water injection is not wired up yet as I wanted to get the basics working first. Any feedback on the logs tomorrow would be much appreciated.. ttfn

Ok Guys, what's your opinion on this : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Innovate-G2-or-G3 ... dZViewItem I take it you can use the other analogue out put to wire to the existing lambda wiring? Will prob buy this to start with if it's a good price, shame as I only just bought a new lambda...

I have a 6 wire MAF, is it still the red wire that performs the same function?

Hey Kev Thought it wouldn't be long before you popped your head in! I am aiming for 11-12psi boost to begin with - keep it sensible till I have confidence the car isn't going to give up again. Good idea with the 10k pot - questions to answer now are : 1) Do you have a pinout for the old style MAF connector so I know what to connect to 2) Which pin and how am I wiring the pot - in series with the wire, or across the wire with reference point to gnd i.e : On the Pot pin 1 : signal to ecu pin 2 : signal from maf pin 3 : gnd Thus creating a reference between gnd and the signal? Or just in series (omitting the connection to gnd on pin 3) Also assuming I want a lin pot, not a log pot? I will drop CrazyDave a PM just in case this is something you DON'T know about the VR! ;-) Cheers Mate