2_Door_fun

A night back I wired my Spal fan to its own relay mounted in the bay. Removed the fan from the fuse box loom and wired it directly to the bat via a 40amp relay. Fitted an Awesome supplied Neuspeed low temp switch and amazing it still won't trip the fan.. I have had 3 G60's and all the fans have had this problem. Yet if you bridge the connection the fan spins up a treat!! Oh its a slim line SPAL fan. So now its back on the dash mounted switch but now atleast its via a good relay. Gutted I was. I'd love to see that fan spin up on auto pilot. No idea why the 60 is so troublsome with its cooling.

Wow I wish my G60 sat at 90 bang in the middle !!! Fitted and Awesome supplied Neuspeed 180 / 82 degree stat at the weekend full system flush and all new antifreeze and checked all the hoses. I have a real Spal fan fitted and its on a manual switch.. As ever the old G60 fan circuit still does not work. There is no way I have ever managed to get a 60 to run sub 100 well only in Winter when you really need a stat to have a heater haha. With the temp outside now around 14 degrees the 60 sits at 100 and the oil is chasing it even with a mocal 8 row cooler. I would like to wire the original fan circuit to the battery maybe with relays... The fan circuit is as poor as the headlamp circuit. Every 60 owner I meet always always asks does yours run hot... I bought a set of adjustable Koni's a week back from a fella Nr Preston and it was indeed the first thing he asked.. We both started laughing. Always interesting to hear theories on the old engine temps. I think its also interesting that Germans being German fitted a gauge with actual readings... Maybe if the gauge read like Fords with Blue for cold and Red for trouble and in the middle was the word NORM it would reduce engine worries lol.. I was thinking of getting a sensor kit that sits sits in the top hose.. 82 degrees to match the stat.. Wire it up direct. Would that help the engine some? Or is that really the wrong position for a new sensor? Interesting post chaps.. Rob

Thet are a set of Weitec's and though 4 years old they have few miles on em. It was a set of springs n shoxs purvhased from G-werks. Springs always look rough they are exposed to the elements and take a hammering from driving and what ever the weather.

Arghhhhhhhhh. Front near side spring decided to snap on the way to my re-test this morning.. I had to fit a new rear caliper and adjust the rear bearings from last weekend and then this... Why oh why

The Big Dish for me.

By all accounts its a tough job to do. Even for a pro. I have been told of stories where fitters may have ahemm damaged the replacement glass so they don't have to do it. Ie another has to go out when the new glass comes in. The glass is jig fitted at the factory and is only just big enough for the hole it fits. If you don't get it correct and bang on you will end up with wind noise and worse.. I reckon its a fitters job or at the least a spray shop that pulls glass for fun.

What an epic post.. Sir your not alone. My G60 is a bugger for getting hot. `same setup Rallye Ic, Slim fan - single speed and a mocal fitted with the original water exchanger removed. I have a terrible time getting the fan to come on as it should. I have to have it on a dash mount switch. My previous G60 was also a nightmare to get the fan working... Always as if there is not enough voltage to trip the rad switch but when I test with a meter its fine. Anyway good luck with the work, owning a 60 is medal earning!! Rob

Hmmmmm. I may just pull the pump on the 60. I have sim problems.. Always good pulling a pump.. Now which way do I twist it to lock it back in to the tank......!

I've had boost gauges fitted to the FPR. Cut the pipe going from the FPR at the end of the fuel rail. T peice it and then rejoin the two halfs and then the third junction to your boost gauge.

Unbeliavable job. Indeed much swearing. What a day. I am in pain.. Dam it was he hardest thing I have ever done on the C. I have pulled engines n transmissions and fitted clutches loads of stuff but this!! A couple of quid for rubber and all day in the S~@&.. Nightmare. Didn't use a clamp just used a 2nd jack and pressed the subframe in to place then spun the bolt in. Getting the rubbers in place was awful. I wished I had dropped the sub frame and made a cup o T and just done it that way. I did a friends C class merc the other week.. 30 minutes job done!! Roll bar goes round the front of the engine.. Well easy. Still I spotted that the rear brake compensator was rusted and in a bad way.. That is a def MOT failure so thats now freed up. Cheers for the replys. Not used the forum for an age good to be on it again. Rob

You may well need a third arm and a breaker bar for that job!

Errrr yes that would be the way i AM DOING IT.....What I sould have done 3hrs back was dropped the sub frame! Now with my new third arm I am wining! Cheers for the help

Yep that is the way I am doing it. Ta muchly. Its a task and I don't want to do it again! Pulling the head off is easier!!! Rob

I agree it should be obvious but not so... It can fit either way but it was just one of those moments when under the car and you think ah! I shall proceed as I am with the split facing towards the front of the car and the groove will then I believe let the hook on the collar slide in. Ta for the reply

Hello all. This is dumb question...I know. Removed roll bar yesterday threw the old bushes away! Can't remember which way round they go... Is the split in the new rubbers to the base or to the rear? I presume to the base as there is a groove in the rubber to slip the hook for the coller in to? Cheers Rob