TomD

Right....revival short lived! Got the AA out to have a look at it - several tests confirmed that the GSF starter motor I bought a few months ago is to blame - boo. Lost the receipt to :(

Right - took off the starter, cleaned it all up - chickened out of hooking it up to the battery when i read your second post! Put it all back together - and its starting fine....??? Argh! All the connections were fine, my oil catch tank is directly about the starter and has been dripping oil on it.. could that have caused a dodgy connection?? Damn electrics.....

I tried relaying the solenoid as I said above (think i edited the post after you replied though! Might try and get it off and check then - so connect it to the battery and it should spin? Cheers! Tom

Yes - no difference :(

Hi All! My car has consistently had a tempremental non starting problem. However its got worse and now wont start at all. Battery seems to be strong (12.3 with everything off inc engine) and alternator puts out good voltage (13.5-14v) Been through several ignition switches but it has never cured it. I've just spent a while trying all the connections... All connections seem fine, the issue seems to be the 3 month old alternator.... When you turn the key to ignition, the started motor makes a noise which at first I thought was the rad fan - whirring turning noise but pretty fast (but quiet like a fan) but the actual engine doesnt turn over. The starter motor is a few months old - but it seems like is knackered somehow? Anyone got any ideas? Cheers, Tom P.S. Car bump starts fine, and over recent weeks the starting would sometimes be really weak (like a flat battery) turning over really slowly but starting...which would make sense if the starter was struggling. But battery voltage still good. Tried this too... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... CH#p855521 but it made no difference... Do i need to forlk out for a new starter??

Hi all! Quick question - doing my brakes soon (rebuilt front calipers, mk4 rears, goodridge hoses all round etc) But... I want to fill it with DOT 5.1 brake fluid, but is there a difference between brands, can anyone recommend a decent one or is it all pretty much the same stuff as long as its 5.1? Done some searching but no brands mentioned as good! Also, a good place to get it from would be very handy! :D Oh yeah, and do you use mk4 pads with mk4 rear calipers? Assuming you do but don't know for sure! :D Cheers, Tom

The other mounts are fine...or they were, maybe not after these latest shennanigans. Good shout on the coil - makes sense if the engine is moving. as there's not a lot of give in those wires - will check it out tonite. As for the solid front engine mount, rapidly going off the idea as I've had a couple of problems with it. Would a vibratechnics front one with stock rears (Gearbox one is a vr one apparently) be ok to stop movement enough to protect the manifold? Speaking to a guy I know who is a motorsport mechanic (World Series) and they have trouble with all the vibrations undoing nuts so they use 'K nuts' which are slightly oval sot they grip the thread and never come undone. Can anyone tell me the thread I'd need for the front engine mount top nut? Can't remember what it is now! Stupid car.

Album56 - you were right! Checked it out yesterday and although the mounts are fine - but somehow the nut from the top of the front engine mount is missing :confused4: :confused4: :confused4: No idea how as I triple checked it was torqued up when I fitted it, and checked it again after a coupleo hundred miles. Has anyone else had this problem with solid front engine mounts - I guess it could be that the vibrations could have loosened it? Seems strange though. Looks like there's a small crack in the front engine mount bracket (which is less than a year old new from VAG!) around the whole where the stud comes through from the top of the engine mount so that may have caused it. Anyway, not found out where its damaged the exhaust yet but its also taken out the rad fan :confused4: Cheers guys! Tom

Cheers Jonathan! I'll check the normal stuff then - ECU line, knock sensor, will have a look at the lambda too as i need to check where the damaage is on the exhaust! It seems to be a more violent loss of power than the second one link - it really is a sudden total loss of power like the engine is going to stop rather than feeling a bit flat! From the fact its intermitent I reckon its electrical rather than mechanical? The map was originally for all the mods apart from the cam so i ideally need it mapped for the cam too - it was running lean when I first put the cam in but the Phirm sorted that out! Do have a boost gauge but was too busy going 'what the f**k' to look at it! Cheers, Tom

Hi! I need your help - my G60 is doing strange things! A month or so ago i put a newman cam in it and gave it to the Phirm to set up for me. It came back from them really good and drove really well - no problems. However over the last couple of days its been playing up. Initially the exhaust started to blow on full throttle, which I could have put up with until I got time to fix it. It then developed another problem... When you press down hard on the throttle pedal the power totally dies until you take you foot off the pedal. If you press gently it seems to be ok all the way up to the red line. Problem is it cuts the power so violently that it hurt my back, and the supercharger has dented the underside of the bonnet even though it has a solid front engine mount and the others have hardly any play! This made me wonder whether this caused the exhaust blow rather than the other way round (may have cracked the 4 branch) but I'm pretty sure the blow came first. Did some searching and found this thread - which seems to be a similar problem but no replies (but mine idles ok): http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... ut#p903813 Any ideas? Its had a new bosch lambda but I guess it could be that, throttle switches? :( Any help much appreciated! Thanks, Tom

No the wiring seemed fine, although wouldnt rule it out...anyway I need to give it back as started motors are exchange so its worth £50! :) Cheers. :D

Cheers for that! So it seems like its ok! One week on...all seems good! So either my started motor was knackered, or the ignition switch i replaced it with was on its way out anyway. My money's on the starter motor... :D Cheers for your help guys! :)

Hi. No its not that - the problem with the non starting was when the light was green (i.e. just unlock) but the car still wouldnt start. Question about the alarm is just to check its working properly, for piece of mind (

Still feeling good - fingers still crossed! :) Have a question though - do any of you have a Toad Ai606? If so can you answer me this? When the engines been running, and you switch the ignition off, does the led on yours remain off until you open the door, at which point it goes orange, then green when you shut the door, then red once the immobiliser is activated (60 secs i think?) For some reason I thought the LED would go green when you take the key out, then go red. Can someone confirm that that isn't supplosed to happen until you open the door? Cheers! Tom

The battery seems ok - gives 12.5V when the engine is off, and 13.5V when the engine is running (with the multimeter on the battery) My head unit has a volt meter on it - but always seems to show less than that, so I think there's a bad earth somewhere in the cabin. Gave the car a service on a saturday, also gave it a new alternator belt, brand new vag black ignition switch and a new starter motor too - the parts guy new the part number off the top of his head - apparently loads of VWs have a problem with ignition switches! Since then she seems much better, when she did fire up the starter did sound like it was struggling, but now sounds much much better, and the key feels better in the ignition too, more resistance against the key when you turn it. Fingers crossed then - if I keep getting problems I'll try and make up the loom like you! :)