Dalek995

Can anyone shed some light on to the purpose of the crankshaft sensor, the effects of it being faulty and the cost to replace? Ta Muchly

Cheers everyone for the suggestions - looks like I'm gonna have some fun with my powerflow exhaust over the next few months then!! So long as she lasts the next six months (which I have no doubts she will) gonna take her off road then to do some work on her - got a polo standing by - its brown and its a 1 litre - let the good times roll!

There doesent seem to be any carbon deposits around the joins - however, yes she does do it more when warm and it seems to be getting worse in that today she was giving out one good pop whenever I changed from 4th to 3rd or even 3rd to 2nd. Sometimes it gurgles quite nicely (and yes I admit - I have the odd accelerator stomp just to hear it - mainly at traffic lights) but other times I am a bit concerned that I should paint it yellow and stick New York, Paris, Peckham on the side! Could it be something before the CAT then? Manifold seal or something like that? Cheers

OK so, recently replaced my exhaust all the way from the CAT back with a powerflo stainless exhaust setup. The one issue I have now is that when I rev the engine and drop off the accelerator it does the following (please forgive the childish noise attempt!!) Brrrrrruuuuummmmmm pop po-pop pop pop Brrrrrruuuuummmmmm po po po pop pop pop So to speak!! :oops: Its quite sperradic in pattern - problem is that it does it while I drive and change gear also. Am I just being a tart with this - is this supposed to happen (I just dont ever remember it doing so before my exhaust issues). Thanks for any input dudes and dudesses :? :)

Oops - good point there dinkus - its always good to include a link when recomending a website - so here it is: http://www.gpcvwaudi.com

Well, have found a web site that sells obscure corrado parts (as well as other dub brands) so far, have found a handle for £50.00 - on top of that is the VAT and postage to it comes to around £65.00. Unscrewed the handle yesterday to have a bit more detailed look and I have two problems stopping me from doing the job myself (other than being the worlds worst mechanic that is!). 1. I cannot seem to get the one end away from the door - this end being the furthest away from the lock barrel - any suggestions (I have taken the door pannel off and still cant get to the thing). 2. I have a wire which I presume is linked to my alarm/central locking system which seems to be pretty well fixed on to the handle. If it's on the lock barrel then its less of a problem cause I can tate that out (he says!) and replace it on the new handle but if its not, I'm gonna struggle to change the handle over myself I think. Anyone come across any solutions to this little mind bender? I have looked at a few past threads but have not noticed anything that deals with this. Gladly - that is if I can sort out the above issues.

Just been contacted by my local stealer - 80 notes aint far off at all! I have just been quoted £80.26 including VAT - do I take it that this new handle comes fabricated in Gold with some bling bling thrown in for good measure! Ok so to get the handle I am either looking at a lock-less one from the rear of a Passat OR selling my soul to the Stealer. After that (assuming I get the handle without hemmoraging too much money) is the install fairly straight forward i.e. when its said that the whole mechanism needs taking out - are we talking the latch and everythng as I have my alarm set up (as with most C's) to work the lock for me. Any ideas on the time frame/complexity of this kind of job?

Ok so, I leave work yesterday evening - get to my car and do the usual proceedure of puuling the handle towards me with the vain hope of the door following in motion and nothing happens! Great :x I now have to open the driver door by climbing across the pasenger side and using the internal handle. I took the handle off only to find that the latch mechanism has sheared away so its a new handle. Can anyone advise on the type of handle I need i.e. is it a passat handle etc and whats the level of complexity to fit the damn thing? I gotta get this one sorted a.s.ap cause at the moment I look like an extra from the Dukes Of Hazzard when I climb in through my window! :roll: Cheers everyone :)

Cheers everyone for the input - I must admit - being a design engineer myself, I do find the names of stuff very suggestive! I will have to buy some Jizer just for the principle! Gunk seems to be the one then - provided I take care not to get it on my hoses and paint work. 16VG60 - location quite a distance from you I'm affraid - were talking the Three Counties but I do appreciate the offer - cheers. Looks like I will just have to scrub the old fashioned way to get the crud off my beloved. On now to project nose job! - I too am a little intrigued as to what this is all about - come on woody - spill the beans

My engine bay is in a desperate need for a de-gunking - can anyone recomend how I should go about doing this with the most basic of tools to hand and a desperate want to not remove a single component? Is it simply a case of pressure washing the cack away or do I need to use a de-greaser - perhaps even stay away from certain cleaning products?? Cheers

I was also concerned that the steering may be the cause - perhaps I have thrown a tooth or something equally as bizzare?

Hi de ho, I posted a query a few months ago about my car shaking when I brake - as a result it turned out to be warped discs and I have since replaced them with Red Dot six slots and equivalent pads. The shaking has now gone but the car STILL veeres from left to right - its very difficult to explain other than the wheel sometimes decides to pull to the left or the right untill I jump in and correct it. I do think that the suspension is on its way out (13 year old car = 13 year old suspension) but I was wondering if this may be related to something else more minor/majour such as a track rod end. Can anyone suggest any tests I can do on the driveway in this months weather conditions with the usual set of garage tools and no ramp to see if I can solve some if not all of this veering problem BEFORE I inevitably shell out for some Spax adjustables. Cheers :roll:

Its a '92 VR6 - would the G60 fuse box not be the same?

Just two short days ago, I was happily driving home from work when my C decided to STOP - not slow down or gurgle then splutter and finally have its last wheeze - just STOPPED! This being while I was doing around 80mph! :shock: Luckily, I managed to dip the clutch and coast on to the side of the road to await assistance :cry: although having no lights (or power in general) meant that the cars behind me were baffled not to mention P***ed off over what I had done :mad: Whats the point in all this I hear you ask? Well, having had it looked at by a reputable company, I was informed (with visible proof) that as a result of damp/moisture the MAIN feed from the ignition to the fuse box had melted aroung the bracket that holds it in - as a result, it fell out! It has now been "fixed" back in place so that it is safe & driveable BUT...I have been advised that the fuse box needs replacing as it ihas also experienced some melting (severity unsure). Soooooo......... Does anyone know of the cost to:- a) obtain a new fuse box b) get it fitted by an expert OR how straight forward is it to do it myself i.e. is it just a case of copying the exsisting layout of the original fuse box? Cheers :(

Whats the ratio on that one - would it be 15w40? - I ask this because it has just this second been suggested to me.