laneontour

Ok Thanks, I have checked most parts of the coil now as stated but will check pulses tonight. very resistance is correct on the crank sensor so I guess I could rule that out. If I get pulses then the loom to the coil is all OK. I have the correct resisatnces on the coil though so can I not presume it's working correctly?

Thanks, I have fuel to the injector manifold. I made a mistake on the injector resistance as I measured it on the harness side rather than the injector size (oops!) I will try to redo that. I have clened and sprayed every plug and cable I can find. Camshaft is rotating on turning over Sparking for a few seconds every so often does maybe rule out an issue with the immobiliser although I have heard they run for a bit then cut out? I'll reset the ECU and check for pulses ths evening. Maybe look out for an ECU on here just to rule that out... Thanks

Hi, Thank for your help. My Corrado VR6 is a March 1994 model with coil pack. My Story so far: Car stalled on idle a few times and just got it home by keeping the revs up. Now I get no spark at all, although every so often after a day or so of leaving it I get a spark for maybe 5-10 seconds but not firing. Then no further spark. Here are some further notes: 1. Fuel tests a) The fuel pump works fine, there is fuel pouring out at the injector rail! b) The fuel filter is only 4 months old. 2. ECU a) I have changed Relay 109 although the old one seemed OK (not smelling of burnt electrics!) b) The ECU is about 2 years old c) I cleaned out the leaves from under the bonnet and sprayed up the cables. I have cleaned the contacts on the ECU too. 3. Injector tests (only single injector harness checked so far) a) I have 12V across the terminals when ignition is on. b) I have not checked for pulses due to broken lamp tester. c) Resistance across the terminals is infinity. It should be 15-21.5 ohms I believe. IS THIS THE PROBLEM? 4. Coil tests a) Terminals 1-6, 3-4 and 2-5 all have resistance of about 3400 ohms. This is very slightly lower than the specified 3600-4400 ohm window. IS THIS A PROBLEM? b) Resistance between terminal 1 and Earth of the coil harness is zero as required. c) Voltage between terminals 1-5 is 12V with ignition turned on. d) With ignition turned on, voltage across 2-5, 3-5 and 4-5 were all 12V (is this as expected?) When turning over, the DC voltage measured with a multimeter did drop a little as would be expected if pulses were happening but pulses could not be checked due to broken lamp tester. 5. Crank Sensor Tests a) Resistance between terminals 1-2 is 480 ohms (within limits). b) Resistance between terminals 2-3 and 1-3 is infinity as expected. c) Resistance between terminal 3 and Earth is zero as expected. d) Turning over whilst moving the sensor cable about to check for any cable corrosion problems did not cause and firing. 6. Immobilizer tests a) This is a March 1994 VR6 so a factory fitted Thatcham alarm with rectangular key fob. No chipped key. I have no idea how to test or disengage the immobiliser. So the main issue I have found is 3©. What could this be? Can anyone tell me how to disengage or test the immobiliser? Any other ideas? Thank you.

I have a very similar problem and am trying to get to the root of it. I have 500 ohms on the crank sensor - does that mean it is definitely working or could it still be faulty? I have no spark although I did have a few sparks first thing this morning (been broken for 3 days). Camshaft turning and turning over fine. Battery fully charged. I have 12V on pin 1 of the injectors. I think I can rule out the ECU can't I? Is it down to the crank sensor or the coil? History - about 4 months ago I had some misfiring followed by same problem. I sprayed the air mass flow meter, changed the fuel filter and added a jet cleaner to the fuel and all worked fine again until now. Alas I can no longer get my VAG-COM to work having the same problems as everyone else (depending on which laptop and windows platform I use changes the problem!) I have an early 1994 VR6 so no keyfob chip. Could it be my old Thatcham immobolizer? If so, any ideas how to bypass it? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

Sorry for the delay but I forgot to put the final diagnosis on here. Steve at C&R hit the nail on the head so thanks so much to him. There is a fault on Corrados where water can leak into the body from the bottom passenger corner of the windscreen. It drips behind the glove box straight onto the ABS ECU. After some time, the PCB can corrode. I tried cleaning the PCB contacts but no joy. I bought one on ebay and fitted it, and this sorted the issue 100%. So it was not the pump or inlet valve as diagnosed by Caffyns VW in Hove - they wanted £1300 +VAT + labour from me which would have solved nothing. Their problem is that VW HQ confiscate all old maintenance manuals so that they are unable to easily fix old model VW's. It's a way to try to get people to buy newer models which I think is a pretty poor show. It means these dealer garages that you would assume know best, know very little.

I have the same problem with a good level of brake fluid. It tends to settle down after about 15 minutes of driving which leads me to believe it's a dodgy contact on the handbrake switch. I'm going to try to locate the switch - can anyone save me half an hour by telling me where it is?! Thank you

any news on the pump part number PhillT?

interested in the pump - let me know the part number when you can. Thanks.

I've spoken to Steve at C&R and he was more than helpful - what a star! He's asked me to ask the moderators why he cannot log in any more to this forum - has been like it for 6 weeks!! Can anyone sort him out? I promised to try to help him...

Right now I'm not sure if it's the pump or the ECU as I've had conflicting advice. What part number is your pump - and what's the price? Thanks.

Fluid was last changed March 2005. The car has been regularly serviced.

Hi, I'm new here so forgive me if this question has been asked before... I have the ABS light on permanently. There is only one error code in the ECU - 00259 (right front ABS inlet valve - N99). VW said they will fit a new pump (1300+VAT for the part from them!) which is where the valve is. I spoke to another supplier and he said they are very reliable pumps and he thinks it could be a dodgy ECU. So my dilemma is which to buy! Is there any way of narrowing down my options to one?! Thanks, Marcus