Quiz

C'mon I know somebody on here has dealt with this bolt before. I know there are guys on here that have rebuilt this motor. I live in the country so my next try is going to involve a John Deere tractor and some duck tape. I need some help pleeeeeeeeeeeeeese.

I have my motor all broke down minus the crank shaft. I have the pistons out and everything. The problem im haveing is i cant get the damn harmonic balancer off (or the vibration damper whatever you want to call the stupid piece of sh!t). I put the flywheel back on so i could lock down the crank. Im not paying $180 for the stupid part vw says i need in the book. What i need to know is if the threads are left handed. I put all the ass in it that one person could with a cheater bar and still couldnt get the damn thing to break. I know they are a b!tch to get off but damn i aint never ran into anything like this. I just want to make sure im going the right way with the bolt before i move to more drastic measures. I will get this damn thing off on way or another, but i want to make sure im going the right way so i dont mess something up. Is it lefty loosey righty tighty or is the damn thing backwards like a bicycle peddle? If someone can tell me i would be in your debt. Thanks!

The motor is going to a machine shop to get bored. But that is something i have never heard of so enlightnen me what exactly is flex honing and what does it do for the engine? I know what it means to hone the cylinder walls but ive never heard of flex honing. The only warning ive been given with forged pistons is some piston slap until the motor gets warm.

I have a 2.8 with a distributor. No electronic ignition. I believe this motor is the first year vw ever built the vr6. And if it matters its an obd1. Also with all the tuning i will probably need the ecu reprogrammed. Whats the best course of action to take with this? Oh and the rods are a part of the deal as well. Its a packeage deal with je rods and pistons in a matched set with arp rod bolts. Im going to build it right from the ground up replacing or upgrading about everything. Its just real crittical in the early stages not to make mistakes, thats why ive turned to you guys for input and exsperience. VW's are notorious for running hot and in this southern heat i don't want problems.

After two years, a nasty divorce (worth it), and a custody fight (also worth it) i am finally ready to buy my pistons. I am looking to buy JE rods and pistons with a 83mm bore. My dilema is what compression to run. I am going to turbo charge so i know that 8.5 is recommended. The setup is SUPPOSED to handle 1000hp. I am sure the crank wont though and a dont want to replace it. I would like to run 9.0 or 9.5 but im not sure how this will affect things. I could deffinetly use some input cause ill be ordering in 2 weeks. Thanks guys for the help.

I know what my engine is i just want to know where it came from. I believe that something has been swapped in my car. Either the odomete or the motor, something is just not right. I paid 6,000 for a 15 year old car that "appeared" to be in mint condition. After multiple problems with the cooling system i said screw it and decided to rebuild it. Now im starting to see things that just dont add up and i want to know if im justified in going and whipping someones ass. I think i was had and im owed some money. I just need the proof. Oh and im sorry if i come across as rude i dont mean to be.

I imagine you are talking about the owners manual. I didnt recieve one with the car when i bought it. I know what the vin is and where it is on the car. The number on the block is what the problem is. If that number is the only number on the block then do i have to cross reference it through the dealer or is it supposed to match part of the vin? Oh and my engine code is AAA. I dont know if that helps.

Well that brings about another problem cause i am having a hell of a time finding a machine shop to mill the block. Most of them want the pistons before they do the work so i have to buy the pistons first. I dont want to order 800 dollars worth of pistons and then someone tell me i cant use them. Im just looking for someone who has done any serious building on a vr6 that can tell me what they have done. Im starting to think noone has bored one of these out. I dont like to be the guinee pig. I could use some advice. Thanks.

Im doing a complete rebuild on a 92 VR6 OBD1. My main thing is that vw's always run hot. I have to bore the block because 1 of my cylinder walls is scorched fairly bad. I want to go up 2 sizes or .20 over. Has anyone bored a block and can you give me any feedback or anything you wish you had done different on your rebuild?

Im in the process of tearing down my 92 vr6. As i get further and further down in the motor it looks like it has alot higher mileage on the motor than the odometer actually reflects. The head was in overall great shape however the block is not looking so good. My head bolts were completely jacked up cause some of them were barely even tight. The car should only have 122,000 miles. The block looks more like 200,000. I believe someone did some head work and replaced the chain. There is a 9 digit number on the block but it doesnt seem to match any of the other numbers on my car. Is this supposed to be part of the vin or is there another number im just not finding?

I've about got my motor out and im going to have the block bored out. I know that the higher bore you go with then the potential for the engine to run hot increases. I have already had a prob with the engiene running hot on hot days running the ac. I can correct that later with other parts that you guys suggested. However i dont want to add to the prob by boreing the block. Standard sizes are of course 10, 20, and 30 over. I have heard somewhere that you cant bore a VR6 10 over. One thing to keep in mind is a live in a very warm climate during the summer. We see some 100 degree days and very high humidity. Before i order my rebuild kit i need to pick a size so i would like some input. I am trying to make as much hp as possible without causeing myself probs. I dont want to have to worry about my gf sitting in traffic on a hot day with the ac on and it start to overheat. Thanks.

Well what about the altenator? Cause the prob i have with the ac is the same with the altenator. I didnt think this was that hard of a question. Maybe i titled the subject wrong or something cause i expected someone had dealt with this before. Oh well i guess im on my own.

Oh come on none of you guys can offer me any help? I know at least one of you guys have been down this road before. I could use a little push in the right direction. Thanks.

I am looking for an aftermarket oil cooler for my vr6. I want something to keep my oil a bit cooler than the factory one. Does anyone know of one and where to get it. Things like this are increasingly difficult to get in the us and i cant find one. Thanks.

Ok im in the middle of yanking my vr6 from my 92 rado. Prob is i cant get the damn ac compressor and the altenator off the motor. I know the alt doesnt have to go but i still cant get it off. I have removed both bolts from both of them and they are still as tight as if i never took the bolts out. It seems like i need to drive out a little metal part out of the hole but im not sure. I dont want to risk breaking something so any help would be appreciated. Also if you have any suggestions or advice on other things im going to be faceing i would appreciate the help. The motor is being pulled because of a leaky head gasket and rear main seal. Its getting tore down completely and rebuilt. I intend to turn at least 450hp when it goes back in. And yes i will be installing a turbo. And no this is not my first time doing anything like this, its just my first vr6. Thanks for all the help.