gruvenVR6corrado

I didnt read all this, but have chased down just about every single problem coolant related in Corrado VR6. 1. Jump the thermo switch. The car ABSOLUTELY will not cool unless you can get all 3 speeds on fans to work properly. If they wont, figure that out. If when you jump the tswitch you cannot get speeds 1 and 2 (key on!), jump fan directly. MAKE SURE ALL 3 SPEEDS WORK. 2. If wiring is screwed, check under battery for a break. No need to rewire the whole thing, just repl whats broken. 3. Feel the rad hoses - both should be SCALDING HOT at these temps. If not, suspect thermostat - for the hell of it, remove it alltogether and see if that makes any difference. Run straight h20 for this test. 4. If all the fans work and hoses are both hot, and it still overheats, you gotta do a pressure test. hook up pressure bottle (tee it into the overflow hose) and see if you can hold 15psi (NO MORE!). Do the unthinkable, and look closely at the serp belt side of engine where head meets block - look for the tell tale sign of coolant pushing out over there - its where most VR6 blow the HG. Also, ensure the res cap is sealing properly. If system wont maintain 15psi, it will overheat. Corrado runs very hot, all components must be working correctly, and they all interact. Let me know answers to these questions. I will help until you are at 100C !

Definitely repl the upper / lower chains, tensioners, and ALL guides. Remove the pan and collect all the bits that were once the tensioners out of oil sump screen. Dont stop until you find those stupid rivets holding on upper timing wear surface! I would highly rec replacing clutch and FW (go lightened FW, you will thank me). I got autotech 11 lb (stock 18 lb). What a nice difference in neutral / 1st. If you got the $, or quid over there, go aluminum FW with wear strips like from Fidanza. If not, go steel but lightened. Goes without saying Rear Main seal, and MAKE SURE they seal upper and lower timing chain covers using sealant! (ask me how I know this, grrrrrr) Not saying this only since I sell it, but the old plastic crack pipe too. Get billet from anyone of suppliers (like me! http://www.GruvenParts.com). Also think about water pump (if it has more than 100k miles). Metal impeller ONLY. Same goes for serp belt (and again, go with billet tensioner - doesnt have to be from http://www.GruvenParts.com but get one somewhere). This is a major job, prob the most involved task you will have done (unless you ball it up). While they are in there, it makes a whole lot of sense to get everything done. Paul 92 SLC http://www.GruvenParts.com