matt33

Cheers for all the advice. The problem with the old ECU was it wasn't sending voltage to the ISV, therefore ISV not working and all associated problems. Tried running without ISV but wasn't really happy with it, so decided to try new ECU. Breakers assured me I'd get money back if it didn't work, so worth a go.

I'm intending to replace my knackered ECU on my 2.0 16 valver (9A) with a used one from the breakers. Could anyone tell me if this is simply a case of off with the old and on with the new? Or is it a bit more complex needing someone who knows what they are doing?

This is what worries me, is it likely ECU is knackered? Is there a temp sensor or something I can test which feeds the ECU info for the ISV to work properly? This is bearing in mind that the white ISV wire, unlike mine, should have voltage. Still not 100% sure of the answer to that?

According to the ETKA diagram I just looked up, the ISV control relay is only on KR's. Anyone know any different?

Don't think it's the MAF as this is one of the parts I changed and its made no difference. Hoping its just a sensor/control unit or something but not sure which one or how to test?

Please help! I've had obligatory rough idling on my 2l 16 valver (9A) for past couple of years. Tried 4 different garages including dealers but none of them have traced the problem. Has all the classic symptoms of ISV not working, but I've tested/changed this and it works fine. So I'm thinking it could be the signal to it that's dodgy. The black/white wire reads battery voltage, but the white wire never reads any significant voltage. Is this correct? If not, what should I do? Thanks for any help.

Hey, can anyone tell me what the resistance values on the standard bosch ignition coil in my 2.0l 16v (92 K reg) should be? Mine are 0.8 ohms and 7320 ohms, are these about right? Thanks for any help!