cabby-67

PO=Previous Owner, right? So I guess it does make a difference. I just bought mine at the dealer, will put it on today.

There are two ports on back of intake, one for ecu and one for other. I noticed that they were both bad. I removed them and clipped them back for a better connection. Yes, I know now the ecu one has to be exactly 1 meter long by 3.5 mm. I will get that line today. However, I am not sure if I placed the hoses in the right posistion. My question is.....where does the ECU vacuum line go, top or bottom. BTW, I did finally get is started. Dizzy was good, had to reintroduce voltage backwards from dizzy, must have been a stuck relay or something. Getting a new muffler today as old one is bad. Any recommendations? Magna or Flowmaster?? Thanks all. $500 for corrado, now another $1500 later. Total investment $2000, what was I thinking. I hope the Ladder G60 will last for some time, I know I will have to rebuild it soon, now at 100,000 miles on OD.

There is no ignition module on a 90 G60, it runs off of the ecu/ecm. At least that is what the VW Dealer/Mechanic said. I searched high and low for one as the chain parts store said there was one and showed me one, about 3 x 3 inches. I looked and looked and called the VW dealer and they told me there wasnt one, that the ignition operated off of the ECU/ECM.

Does anyone else agree with the dizzy getting its low voltage power to operate the hall sensor from the coil? I know the high voltage of course comes from the coil, but I dont get how the low voltage to one of the three wires also comes from the coil. That does not sound right as the black power wire to the coil + goes into the coil. Then theres the green wire out of the coil - that goes to the ECU probably for the tach, and the only wire left, the red/black wire, of which does not have any continuity to the dizzy at all. PLEASE HELP and Happy New Year to all.

Still no spark on my Corrado 90 G60. Relays work and fuel pump pumps. Pulled three wires at dizzy. One is voltage, one is ground and one is signal. I have no voltage when keys is on at any of the wires. Which is the positive voltage wire, how much should be there, when is it there, and where is it coming from? I think this is where my problem is at, no voltage at the dizzy. Please help, and have a HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!

As for head gasket, so far, compression tested great and there is no coolant/water in the oil. Again, thanks for the info SuperCharged, will make sure to watch for that one in the future and to replace it with a the better gasket.

LOL @ Junkie, maybe I will hotwire one that starts and use it for parts, LOL. Switches are relatively cheap, 10 dollars plus shipping. I just dont want to wait, 35 dollars in stock at one of the parts stores here. Again, the difference can be spent elsewhere, where it is needed. Junkie, I sent you an email. When you replaced your relay, was it 4 or 5 pin at #3? Thank you for the info SuperCharge...... Just trying to rule out all others before concluding that it may be the ECU/ECM. If anyone has any other ideas, please post. I really need to get this running before the end of this week. Last week off before going back to work. Everyone have a safe and Happy New Year.

I just picked up a 90 rado, 5speed from a family member. He parked it 7 years ago for an overheating issue. My son is a new driver and what a great learner car for him and or a toy for myself. Christmas day we pushed it to our house, two blocks away, luckily it was down hill. Upon first inspection it looks like there is more than an overheating problem as coil wire was disconnected and 3 wire plug at dizzy was disconnected. Looks like someone else was working on the no start issue. My findings. Good compression on all holes. Have voltage at coil wires to coil. Voltage at wires before connecting to coil with key on, 12+ volts. When connected to coil, 0 volts. Black wire is still hot and show current when touching meter to chassis ground. Ground wires at coil ???? where do they go, one I am sure is RPM, right?? Put on a new cap and rotor as old ones were highly carboned. Hooked everything up, pulled a plug, and no spark. Did a dizzy test, pulled it and spun it with key on, no clicking at fuel rail. I tried two other dizzys (thinking that maybe it was the hall sensor) and same thing, no spark. Hard to believe all three dizzys are bad. I really need help here. Found 5 pin relay #3 testing bad on my snap on relay tester. Ordered another relay, why are there 4 pins now???? My old one was a 5 pin relay, did they give me a wrong relay, all websites show 4 pins now, or do they not use the skinny pin any longer. Is the 4pin relay a replacement for the 5pin relay? The #3 relay is for the ECU or ECM, right? After plugging in new (4pin) relay, still no spark. I really need help here. Tried a new coil, new wire, new plug, nothing, nothing, nothing, quickly returned those parts as it looks like my money will need to be spent elsewhere on this car. I notice that the ignition switch is now tempermental, maybe I am losing current there, how do I hotwire this (testing purpose only) until I get a new switch. AGAIN, PLEASE HELP. I am at wits end, I hate to think that twice in my lifetime that I have come across a VDUB from HELL. Thanks in advance and happy holidays.