Bruceybaby

Car looks nice mate!

IDK the part number sorry. But IIRC all the mounts are the same and DO NOT come with bearing unless requested. Don't be charged more for one parts over the other, I order mine off my mate who works in a stealers and he ordered mounts dor some diesel caddy or something to go on my old VR. He said all the part numbers were the same. HTH

Hiya mate. Having similar issues myself just now. From what i've read, the poverty spec sounds were just the dash speakers and 6x4's in the rear. Never even got a wiring loom to the doors. So you'll need to run wired from each door, through the rubber gromet in the door shut, up through your dash and splice into some wires behind the HU. You can buy tiny blade connectors for slotting it onto a speaker connector. or cowboy it! :nono:

Very nice. Might need to look this place up to get mine resprayed! Ive spoke to you before mate im sure! Seen your Jetta in Mcdonalds Alloa shortly before pestering you to swap it for my Audi :wave: Car looks nice mate!

The wiring is a bloody nightmare. someone has had a right go at this one :mad2: I could moan all night lol

Thanks, I'm presuming, with the lower parts of the dash down. and maybe the glovebox out? i need to route two wires either side to the back of the HU? Any idea what wires i should connect to?

I'm pretty sure i've read this somewhere before but i can find it in the search function. Am i right in the assumption that Early valvers didnt come with door speakers or a wiring loom for door speakers? I know mine doesnt have any, nor did my last valver. Are there any how tos on wiring in a loom? or should there be one tucked away somewhere? The door speaker size is 5.25 yeh?

Thanks for your reply SMEE, I had another go today with a cooler head, took everything apart and started again and its working now. Although my dash illumination lights have now gone out :censored: Are you sure about all rado wiring being the same across the board? I constantly come across varying diagrams for early and late rados. The colour code i have seems to tie in with whats in the car :scratch: although i do have a spare black wire now that you mention it. . . . . . thanks again!

I wish . . . . .Been off work with a back problem so i was unable to do the work myself. My mate took it into his garage but unfortunately it overheated on the way. long story short. the garage (his boss) charged me 140 all in, including the cost of towing it 7 miles :censored: I now have the stereo to fix. the alarm sensitivity and the scuttle panel water leak. :help: Feeling like selling it tbh, everytime i buy a corrado i get these annoting little issues and they cost me a fortune :gag: :cuckoo:

Its a 10a mate. anyone know what its meant to be?

Having problems with the wiring in my Rado. I've tried 2 different HU's in it and neither seem to work. The ISO plugs dont work, and the wires dont seem to match their 'job role' where they meet in the block connector. Although i had been trying to use the ISO blocks, as they were not working. I've resorted to connecting the wires directly to see what happend. Using the information below. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/ste ... /2166.html Constant 12V+ Red/White Switched 12V+ n/a Ground Brown Illumination Gray/Blue Dimmer n/a Antenna Trigger White/Blue Antenna Rear Roof, Amplified matching the above wires with the wires on the HU, using the wiring diagram that is on the HU; I connected the Constant 12v, and the Earth. the illumination W/B was connected to the HU marking Light Switched. and the Antenna trigger was connected to the blue wire on the HU marked Antenna/Amplifier. That takes care of every wire on the HU block that isnt for the speakers, except for the ignition switch wire, which . . . .I don't have a wire for, and as the above says. there isnt meant to be one? Still i get nothing from the HU. The Multi-meter shows 11 point something or other volts when connected to the constant live and ground. So i'm presuming there are no other issues. Checked the fuse at slot 22. ( a 10a?) which was fine, as i slotted it back in, the HU lights up, then quickly shuts off again. Basically, it lights up as you begin to put the fuse in, then cuts off. no matter where the fuse is. I've now reached my maximum ability in diagnosing this problem, and i need help :( Cheers Bruce

Had the hose replaced and all is working fine. Thanks for your help!

cool is this the switch on the radiator itself on battery side sort of opposit P/S bottle or is it the switch on the back of the fan? Thanks for your help mate

Cheers mate. Will get to stealers tomorrow and sort out a blue cap. Could you elaborate on 'bridging' please, read this re testing the thermoswitch too. Just a bit of cable and stick in the slots on the multi-plug yeah? My back can't deal with much more leanin over a bay lol, I'll take it to my mates garage and get him to sort the leak. I don't wanna use radweld incase in clog the matrix or sumit.

Just about had it with this car :bang: Can anyone advise? Since buying this car, the temp warning light will intermittently flash, but the needle would stay at 90 I've always checked things over, and found everything to be ok and just topped the coolant up a touch when this has happened. So last night i decided to take the car a wee run as she hadn't moved in a few weeks. After a mile, the temp light starts flashing and the water temp slowly creeped above 90. oil temp was at 100. sitting idling, the temp slowly raised to 110, and oil temp at 112. It was late and i had no tools. but under a streetlight i checked all the connections. The yellow/brown sensor on the oil cooler was covered in oil so i cleaned up the contacts. The fan did not cut in at any point. so i drove her home. This morning with everything cooled down, i topped up the coolant which took about 2 litres. removed and reconnected all the sensors and noticed a very small drip from the coolant pipe which connects to the block under the distributor and connects to the bottom of the expansion tank at the oher end. I took the cap off and run the car up to temp at idle. occasionally holding the car at 2k. i pressed top and bottom pipes to rid any airlocks and checked the return pipe for water flow. the bottom hose did get hot as the car got up to temp and the fan kicked in at the appropriate time, Water and oil temp remained constant. Internal heater runs hot and cold as settings should be. However, despite everything working, the temp light was still flashing. So i took the car out for a drive, and once again water and oil temp shot up to 110 and 112 respectively, when i pulled in the fan was not running and steam was escaping form the slight leak on the block I mentioned earlier. Thermostat must have opened as both pipes were hot again. What could be causing this? I have a black cap, which im sure are notorious for pressure issues, but i dont see how either that or the slight leak could stop the fan from switching on when driving and i dont see how the fan could cut in at idle at the right time, but not when driving. Cheers Brucewas not running and steam was escaping form the slight leak on the block