Jim Hughes

I did exactly that.

I replaced the ignition switch with a Volkswagen part.

This is now sorted. I soldered a new piece of wire into another switched live (+12V) off the back of the plug that connects to the ignition switch. Wierd one though, the key/barrel mechanism is purely a mechanical device which transmits its function through the ignition switch?? The ignition switch does the electrical switching, so I would have thought by installing a new switch it would fix the problem. Unless the original wire was breaking down due to age??

Hi, Fitted a new stereo last week and having issues. At first it worked fine, then it went off whilst driving, I thought a bad connection or fuse etc. None, after a lot of investigation I find that the stereo works fine when the ignition is in position 1-2 (engine not running) but when you go to crank to start the power to the stereo drops out and the only way you can get it to power up is by pushing hard down on the ignition key (force applied in direction of steering column) and wiggle the key in the barrel. I was tending to think this was an ignition switch issue, I replaced that yesterday - no improvement I have tried two other stereos in and the problem is the same....

Today at Lowick (Cumbria) You were in the Silver one going towards Spark Bridge, I was in the Silver one going opposite direction. ---------- Post added at 4:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:42 PM ---------- Today at Lowick (Cumbria) You were in the Silver one going towards Spark Bridge, I was in the Silver one going opposite direction.

You can't polish a turd.

Door membrane it was. I would never have thought it would be... It was all off at the top and bottom of the door especially bad around the speaker pod area - all the foam on the door card at this area was sopping wet

Cheers Stonejag, The car was delivered to me from its garage via trailer, it sat on my drive for a few days while I sorted the insurance tax etc, during that time it rained heavily. That's when I noticed the pooling of water in the footwells - so I'd like to think not driven in. The last few days around here weather - wise have been frosty and dry, today it rained, the car has not moved the carpets are soggy so I figure it has to be rain water leaking in. The Boot carpet is not affected.

OK folks I appreciate this one has been done to death - I did a search last weekend. My new Rado is showing the above problem. I've only owned it two weeks after having an accident in my previous one of 12 years, It's a bit of an unknown quantity but I know from its condition that it has been garaged all its life, it is pristine. But, it does leaks in - not good. Checked the seal on the foliage filter - still factory fresh but I put a smear of silicone grease around anyway. Sent a draw wire down all four Sun Roof drain tubes - no obstructions. Like I say it is only both drivers side footwells (front being the worst). Can anyone truly convince me it might be the membrane in the door? I'm really struggling with that concept - surely the door fabric would show dampness etc?? I mean the height of the lip? the door would have to be half full of water? I did also read that Talc is a good aid for this? are we talking sprinkle it all over the outside around likely leak spots?

VW Owner, I'm pretty new to this too..(my first accident) But, the way I see it, once you've had a smash involving another party your vehicle becomes the property of your insurance company etc recovering losses even if it is on your own drive like mine! I was informed if my car had been a 'cat A' total loss I could not buy it back.. In effect you are not buying it back, you are accepting a deduction from the total loss pay-out to dispose of yourself, I think it has to be a common sense move from the insurance loss adjusters who realise that their customers are sometimes better placed to 'recycle' a car on a Classic Car Policy! I had thought my (old) car was repairable from the outset, but my new Rado is the bloody biz!

Its been classed as a class C total loss, so repairable and I can buy it back. The provisional price they value it at (as long as paperwork stands, MOT etc) minus the price they will deduct for me to hang on has made my mind up . I'll keep it and break it. The deduction on the payout price to keep is £170 - nobrainer.

Many thanks to replies and advice. Obviously I'll have to wait to see what the insurance company offers, If I do decide to break is there anything I should especially look to keep for myself? I know indicators/lights etc are rare and I'll be able to save the drivers side units. I'm starting to think not much else is going to be worth hanging onto? my new C is an 'L' plate 09 engine as opposed to the old KR and the interior and switches/stalks are all different. Of course I'll keep my repaired old door handles.

Hi folks, Two weeks ago I was involved in an accident in my Corrado of the last 13 years, it was my first accident in 22 years of driving so I'm a bit new to this! I have not mucked about and I've replaced it with a very nice example (Corrado) which I was lucky to find local to myself. The insurance assessor has been to look at my crashed car (it's on my drive) but I was not in when he made his visit, it cannot be anything other than a total loss, it's a J plate with fairly extensive front end damage - bumber, front panel, lights bonnet, wing. My Insurance company's Accident Management firm have written to me and informed me the other party have admitted liabillity for the accident. Various people have informed me that I will get an opportunity on the salvage and I'm fairly sure I was told this when I took out the policy. I was thinking someone on here may have been in a similar position? if I do get the chance to buy it back is it worth putting on e bay as a whole car? or strip it for parts? Thanks in advance Jim

Part Number on invoice - 357721401 I can't fault my local dealer (Hadwins of Lindale Cumbria) they have been more than helpful. They advised that: if it appears no longer available in the UK, that might not be the case in Germany.

Lost all clutch last Friday! Went to the dealers with Leon's welcome advice (worth following). My Vdub dealer informed me they had managed to find one from Germany (replacement for my 90 'J' plate), from a local specialist who was willing to supply a new part for a left hooker, a digi photo was supplied and I was confidant it was similar. £115.00 + VAT = #~ £140 similar to doing the later CMC conversion..... I did not want too, or have the tools to make up the 'new cunifer swaged pipe down to the slave'. Do consider 'Cracking' the above union when the CMC is away from the bulkhead and not 'round the nut like I did'.Once the CMC is away you can apply heat easily and safely. My new CMC came with non-threaded (blank) 7mm fixing holes... Tap them out to M8 and fix-in the m8 studs with liquid thread-lock. You are not going to be able to Nut& Bolt that job easily - trust me. ' Back fed through the nipple after gravity bleeding - Job's a good un!