pinkvdub

thanks for the reply, but i want a uninterrupted switched live

right guys, im putting some autogauge gauges in my c bit confused, 1 is an oil pressure gauge and it goes on a switched 12v only, theres no constant on these but if i used something say the interior blower wire it would turn off for a split second on start up, so apprently i need a wire that doesnt get interupted on start up so the oil pressure gauge can calibrate is this right? the only one i found was the spoiler switch doesnt get interupted but i didnt realli wanna splice into that just in case its to much for it to handle

anyone out there got a set of old style corrado 1.8 16v kr clocks that work how much and can you post in the uk?

bought a new 16v waterpump, it was a febi bilstien, but it came witha platic impellor. good or bad? or dont it really matter too much

also that stat is brand new and waterpump, also checked the stat in hott water before fitting, opened, some said drill 2 5mm hols in the stat to allow air through, good or bad i dea?

oil is spotless, dont seem to be loosing coolant and teh steam is rather thin/fine, but it dosnt go when its warm but seems to clear by half when driving

as ive been having cooling problems etc, top hose hot, bottom cold, i was looking at my car whilst it running ( trying to bleed the sytem ) and though it was smokeing quite a bit, the smoke is white it dosnt look blue or smel like oil so i thought i would totaly drain the system as i took the pump off anyways, so then later today i started the car and left it for about 3-4 mins idle( because i know i shouldnt run with no coolant in the system obviously) hay presto the smoke has vanished, maybe this is why ive got a coolant problem? cracked head?, i didnt see any cracks! hg ? facts, i replaced the head gasket and skimed the head, fitted new pump ,rad,stat,heater matrix about 2 weeks ago. unless its because the car only gets used once a week for 30 min journeys and general crusing. just wierd how it stopped after i drained the system totaly thanks lloyd

yup, im sick of this valver now, the amount of money ive put into that engine and a airlock, if something stopping the stat opening, beyond me

1.8 16v. i cant seem to get any cold coolant to my top rad hose and any hot to my bottom, now i got advised on here a couple of days ago to change the thermostat so i did even though the other one seemed fine, i tested the new 1 and it opend at just below boiling in a pan of water on the cooker, theres just no coolant flow again!!! back to square one with my 3rd thermostat now so i refuse to change it again! heater matrix is nice and very hott! ive tried everything, squeezing all the hoses, leaving the cap off until boil then squeezing, driving the car for around 10 mins then stopping to let it cool and taking the cap off and driving for another 10 mins or so, filling all the hoses, temp gauge is nearly through the roof, head gasket it brand new water pump is belts are, rad cap is, expansion bottle is,switches are. everything! is! im gonna blow this engine up soon i just cant understand what the hell is going on, but i think its gotta be airlock still. i dunno what to do please help people! so i didnt want to but i left the car at idle from stone cold for about 30 mins the temp gauge read just over 3/4 (115) of the way wich i really dont like to do lol, as usual the fan neva came on even though the switch is to hot to touch and ther is deffantly power getting to it(just need it to flick so it will make the fan come on, yes its my third switch so it cant be faulty surely. either way once the bottom hose got very hot the top hose went empty of coolant but i cant put anymore coolant in the expansion bottle or it will go over max mark, so im guessing it still major airlock somewhere in the system. any ideas?

does anyone know if there is a difference with the chrome reflector in the old style to the late vr style headlight reflectors ( chrome part inside)