IainT

Just came back from a ford dealer, they sell them seperatly also but worringly he said it would cost around $120 (GBP my bloody laptop won't do pound signs). C and R $77.50 for blue igniters. I'll be talking to C and R then. Cheers for feedback folks Iain

Having already epoxied the coilpack on my VR6 I now need to renew the leads. I have read a few views on this but which offers the best deal (life, BHP for £, fitting, etc) The Beru leads from a ford dealer (galaxy V6) or the blue igniters from C & R enterprizes? All views on this are very welcome Thanks in advance

Afraid mine only has auto down, on both sides. Are they ment to have auto up?

Got one from Volks-Apart £50ish inc. P&P and VAT they offer warrenty, had it fitted by local specialist in less than an hour. Two working windows! Iain

Skygrowler I replaced my VR6 radiator end of last year with one from GSF. After a great deal of research on this forum, local VAG dealer and some other sites I did the whole job myself without removing the frontend. I am not a mechanic and the whole job was done in one day including hammeriting the front cross member. Ensure you have all the parts / fluids Rad, new seal for elbow on top left of rad if not a new elbow from GSF/euro to get a perfect fit, G12+ coolant for a 40% concentration (3 1.5ltr bottles covers it). Think thats it. This is a fiddily job but remember throughout 'It will fit'. Instructions make more sense looking into engine bay. All this is from memory so some 'local' problem solving maybe required Drain system (black plastic drain plug on a metal coolant pipe on front of engine only visible from underneath) Detach hoses from rad fold out of way remove: battery, thermoswitch, rad cooling fan and couling(4 selftapping bolts), Plastic splash gaurds bolt in everywhere and need to come off, 2 upper securing bolts of rad (bolts a circulur metal piece with a rubber seal into slam panel that slots into top of rad) That should be the rad loose as it just sits on the front cross member with 2 small lugs. Work it out carefully. Easy as that ??? :cry: As Mr Hayne says "fitting is reversal of removal" It will fit, It will fit, It will fit eventually. move it around carefully don't forget the rubber washers on lugs on the bottom of rad. Follow the intructions on how not to get an air block while refilling rad on this brilliant and informative forum Job done :D PM if your having dramas Iain

The problem is exactly the same as mine! Flat battery, Clifford Concept 50, keeping neighbours awake. My VR6 will no longer hold any charge and has to be jumped every time. I too have to leave it armed and standing in a garage for a few weeks at a time. Has your alarm been replaced/repaired? Can you get your remotes working again? Any other advice, I'll do all the above posts? Thank in advance Iain *Mod edit - removed double post for you - Henny*

Cheers folks dr_mat, where you'd get your F1's from?

Waste of money or not? This is more for those of us running standard Speedlines / Solitudes or that size. When I bought my VR6 it was running VR's on the back and ZR Toyo's on the front. Over the last 18months I have carried this on. (V.expensive Michelin's and then Goodyear F1's at £85 each) I know a bit about the speed ratings (v up to 149mph etc). But is there more to it? load, tread wear or side wall strength and handling. Or am I just throwing money away? Any thoughts on this welcome. By the way http://www.mytyres.net does the 205/50/ZR15 F1's at £85 but Toyo T1-S with a v rate at only £46 each including P&P to your door. Plus £10ish for fitting, valve and balance at a garage. No local garage could come close to these prices. Thanks in advance

141mph on private road. K & N ment you couldn't hear a thing but my Corrado felt great. Same confident feeling at 60, 70, 80 ,90 or whatever on private roads. speedo's are not very accurate though. You can expect up to a 10% error. This is why the Traffic cops will allow 33mph in a 30, 66 in a 60 etc. Hence Phat VR6 was doing 146 but busted doing 132. Gatso cameras are never set to go off at speeds below 82mph on M'way ('cos they run out of film). I got all this from a Grampian Traffic cop. (Who busted me for 93.22mph in a 60, 5pts and £200)

Try mytyres.co.uk 2 or more Toyo T1-s £46 each delivered to your door (no p&p or vat to add, just fitting.) 205/50/vr15. Wait a couple of days and they arrive. They have a huge range of tyres and some authorised fitters. http://www.blackcircles.co.uk are the same kind of thing and offer better prices on some brands with their own franchanised fitters. Hope these help

Impreza is a heavily modded family saloon, recently had a run in a 265bhp import. Yes the kids could get to school very, very quickly and it would waste my VR6. They are two cars born to do different things. Autobahn cruiser (VR6) and to sell enough so Subaru can enter WRC with a WRC. The Impreza just dosen't feel the same. Horrible red and silver rattly interier, good seats and a great noise. Corrado looks good, sounds good, feels great, does exactly what it set out to do. (says on the tin etc.) The extra power and 4WD with Corrado road confidence would do nicely but some magazines say that is the Fiat Coupe Turbo, The good one, if Fiat and good can be linked. EVO V/VI win anyday! A real rally car made from a family saloon.

I used EBC greenstuff on my MK 2 GTi 8v. Brilliant! On two occaions the front discs glowed in the dark with enthusiastic driving on private roads. No fade! They did produce alot of dust, which was a pain( 14in BBS ). Great pad though. They were used with P6000 tyres and SPAX allround. Loved that car, but now it is a very different shape to other MK2's. Ah well, things you do when you are young.

Thanks to you both. I noticed to late what category the post went into, you learn something new every day Cheers Iain

A couple of questions for the wise. What are the 'offical' wheel geometery settings for a 95 VR6 on standard Speedlines? If I take it to a non VAG garage I want to ensure he has got the correct settings. I am not too knowledgeable about this, is it Camber, Castor and Toe for the front and just a check on the back? There seems to be a bit of a difference between posts by different owners. If the C is lowered and or gets bigger rims do these settings change? I read somewhere that if, while at operating temp you remove the MAF cable plug at the air filter housing and you get no noticable change in engine rpm or running that the MAF is ****** (Broken). Are there any other checks I should perform? Can it be repaired / cleaned? Any other options to shelling out £170 for a new one? Many thanks in advance for all advice anyone can give me

Spent a few hours fitting a new radiator yesterday and now my baby's back on the road! GSF supplied £130 inc VAT, p & p. + 3 bottles of G12+ coolant (£16.50) Used the instructions (search for 'VR6 Rad Blown' topic title). Cheers to those who posted it. There is no need to strip the front end for the rad change, just battery out and some plastics. Not much hasstle. Went for a drive to see it was alright, drove home with my grin filling the windscreen, like the first day I got her. An easyish job anyone can do and saved £100's not taking to stealer.