DaveVR

I'm thinking the original theory of corroded terminals/connections may be the issue with mine. After I messed around with opening it from the passenger side, it then miraculously started working from the drivers side. I came to it later on and it had reverted back to only opening from the passenger side. It's back home and in the garage now so it's not of paramount importance, just another 'quirk' to add to the list of jobs to fix on this thing!

Thanks for the responses. I initially didn’t try the passenger door as it has a mish mash of locks on it, ignition key different to drivers door etc. I had it in my head that neither key worked the passenger door lock but I remember wrongly, turns out the drivers door lock is the only different one so the ignition key worked the passenger door lock. The central locking works perfectly from the passenger side so luckily I can at least get into it. It also means the drivers lock is most likely the issue, weirdly since I opened it from the passenger side, the drivers lock now works on the key but purely mechanically stand alone (without pump noise etc). It means I can get into it without having to climb through the boot but I’ll still need to sort this out. Are we looking at a drivers door lock fault or a pipe off?

Hi all, I’ve had a search and found that Corrado central locking systems seem to be temperamental at best but haven’t found much info on my particular issue. I’m currently away in the car, locked it outside my hotel and now the bugger won’t unlock. When I turn the key to unlock position the pump sounds as normal but there is resistance against the key (it won’t let me turn it all the way) and the lock pins in the doors rise slightly but are then sucked back down. If I keep pressure on the key, the pump sounds multiple times until I stop. I can unlock the boot manually so I managed to get my luggage out but I need to be able to get into it. Any initial ideas as to why it’s doing this? And also is there a way of disabling the central locking so I can manually open the doors on the key for now until I’m home and can have a proper look at it? Thanks in advance.

I'm unable to check the part number of mine because the loop has snapped off! i just have the stub left which I can grab with a p[air of pliers. However, it is red but visually looks more like the orange later type on VW Heritage (it has the seal on it and not the ribbed section as per the red one on there). It seems the later one has sold out now as well so I can't buy it anyway!

Ok so my chassis is WVWZZZ50ZSK000267 so if the Z is to be ignored mine is after the chassis break as S is later than P, is this correct? If that is the case I should have an orange one and the one fitted is wrong, unless it has an early engine in it. I’m wondering what the difference is, if it’s just the colour then the debate is erroneous, i don’t see why they should be different lengths but if they are, that’s a different matter.

I’m looking at buying a new dipstick for my VR6 because the top loop has snapped off. What is left is a red piece I can just grab with pliers which isn’t ideal. On VW Heritage there is an option of two, one which has a red top and one with an orange one, my assumption is they may be different lengths? My plan was just to replace with like for like but there’s a chassis break given, before 50-P-009-001 is red and after is orange. Reading my chassis no the letter after the 50 is Z which i assume is after the break, then there’s an SK which i assume is ignored, but the numbers are 000267 which would be before the break. Which one takes precedence? I’m aware the car may not be on its original engine and so the like for like thing may be the best bet, or perhaps it doesn’t matter at all and they’re simply different colours?! Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info. I might just use standard hose for now to get it back up and running and through its MOT and then search for the genuine items. Keyo, that last link you have put on takes me to one of the hoses which is still available (Hooray!)and if I search the part numbers it says the other isn't available (boo!). Weirdly the ebay link is for a tailgate damper or something! I suppose they will probably pop up on German ebay from time to time.

I am currently looking for the two rubber fuel hoses that run from the bulkhead to the fuel rail on the VR6. I was recently informed VW still sell them but alas they were dis-continued in 2015 and 2016. I know I could make my own if I wanted to but i'm after the original moulded shape in the first instance. Must be in very good condition i.e. not chopped down/frayed etc. If anybody has any, please drop me a message. Thanks, Dave.

How recently did you buy them Kezbo? I had a look on the website and couldn't find them, even in the out of stock section.

Thanks fendervg, yep theyve been shortened already so time for a replacement. Depending on cost, if they're still available I may go for this due to the pre-shaping (looks better imo).

Thanks Bauhaus, the theory on this sounds about right. As I say, it's not necessarily a 'hot start' issue. The car was parked up in the show grounds at about 9:30am and we left at around 12:30-1pm so not hot at all but not enough time to cool to stone cold with the current weather. The car often gets left in the garage for months at a time without starting and when I come to start it, it spins over maybe three times and fire up no problem so it definitely doesn't smack of a supply issue to me.

Thanks for the info Jim. It was more hope than anything that the issues are related but like you say, it does seem like a supply/pressure issue. It's just strange that it only does it in those circumstances.

Hi all, Had an issue with the VR recently whereby it starts on the button first thing but after a decent run and being left for a while it spins over for far too long and struggles to start, appearing to suffer from from fuel starvation. When it eventually fires it struggles to pick up revs/misses for a second or two then is spot on from then on. It did this yesterday on leaving retro rides gathering and when it did fire, it stunk of fuel. Popped the bonnet and found the fuel line onto the rail leaking at the clip where i noticed it is splitting. As it warmed up it stopped leaking (probably making a seal when expanded). It looks a bit knackered as though somebody has chopped it down in the past to stop the same issue so either way it needs new. My two questions are; 1. Is there anywhere I can still buy genuine under bonnet fuel lines (bulkhead to rail) - did a search on here but seemed to be people mostly asking about aftermarket stuff? 2. Can the starting and the leaky line be linked? I've been trying to work it out and all I can come up with is that it may be struggling to build up pressure. It's a strange one because it never does this from cold, is fine when running and when putting my foot down? TIA, Dave.

Thanks for all of the help guys. I’ve now sorted it by putting two new water proof fuse links in and 2 new relays. It does need further work to neaten it up and I also want to water proof the relay pins somewhat but for now they all work and it’ll get through the MOT.

A few pics...