G11 OWL

Mine doesnt sound like that - because it doesnt seem to be working, I'll take it off tomorrow and test it. But currently it's not doing anything. I'll keep you posted. Google them and there are motor factors selling them in UK!

Don't pay that much! They are £55 new on ebay. People selling them for 30 quid seconf hand on there. Don't know the part number sorry. I'll let you know where it is as soon as I find it! Infact check this - you can't go wrong! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4sAz3qM5fE Good luck

Ive looked it up. They are on there. There is the mechanical water pump and an elecric water pump or auxillary water pump which circulates the water when ignition is turned on and apparently if your fan is running when you switch off the engine, this pump continues to run aswell. Dont know if this will be the cause but I will get it off tomorrow, and check it out. 2nd hand go for 30 quid ish and new are 55 so chances are I'll get a new one in and let you know if it cures the problem. I tried 3 caps, a new bottle, new thermostat and mechanical water pump, rejointed hoses, new jubilees and still no joy. One thing is for sure, headgasket is fine as the performance is still there. If you had water getting into your combustion chamber you'd have poor performance and you'd see rusted spark plugs. If you just had water leaking from a water bore to atmosphere you wouldn't loose it at the rate you are. I'll let you know how i get on xxx

Before you go spending big money, I have the same problem. It is not the head gasket. There is a channel moulded into the header tank. When the cap raises under pressure the water escapes and flows through this channel and out under the bottle behind the battery area. I've changed all parts people have listed. Its not a split bottle, its not a failing cap. However I just read that there is an electric water pump in the coolant system somewhere and if this fails it causes excess pressure in the system, air locks etc. Does anybody out there know if this could be the case? I need to top water up every 30 miles or so. Engine doesnt over heat and there is no loss in performance. Is this your symptoms aswell?

VR6 | Met Ice-Grey Violet | South Wales Price: £Offers?? Message Me If Interested Description: For sale is my Corrado VR6. 112000k miles. Car in over all excellent condition. Massive service history. Original purchase receipts, old mots, tax discs and approx 15 service stamps in the book. All original hand books. It is in very good condition for its age. There is virtually no rust on the body work. There are signs that is has had some paintwork over the years but I have owned the car over 3 years and the previous owner was over 2 years and there has been no paint done over this time, so it appears the metal work is all fairly sound underneath. The car has done very limited milage over the last few years and during that time had all new brake lines, new discs and pads all around and the calipers were serviced. It is lowered on ajustable platform shocks all round. The underside is fully undersealed. It has full black leather interior with heated front seats. Split rim 16" alloy wheels with the original 15" wheels available. I fitted a new battery recently, it also had a new radiator, front hub, wheel bearing and ball joints. There are 8 moths MOT remaining. OMP steering wheel. Now the bad ponts. If the car is driven hard, there seems to be a build up of pressure in the coolant system. This causes water to be expelled from the header tank. Ultimately requiring you to stop and top up the water every 20 -30 miles. Now I have tried a new expansion tank cap. There is no water in the oil and no oil in the water. I've had the water tested with the CO monitor and it is not the headgasket. Car drives well!! There are one or 2 other niggles. Central locking doesn't work off drivers door and the drivers door is intermittant in locking at all. The recliner on the drivers seat is not working but it can still be operated and the sun roof tilts, but only slides half way. Now I am not looking to take silly offers but if interested please do message me. I can be emailed at [email protected] or ring me 07966966860. Thanks for reading. Alternetively, if any one has any suggestions about my water issues, maybe I could fix it before selling? Cheers, Gareth Apparently I can't advertise for offers (Why is that?!) so let's say £3500 ono.

Quick question? Would it be worth replacing the manifold / downpipes and does anybody know of companies producing them? What are peoples experiences and whay should I go for? Car is a VR6. Thanks.

Whist ob the subject, I had a similar problem - my piston was siezed (front near side calliper). I simply sprayed sum plus gas around the piston, left to penetrate for an hour, came back and gave it a few sharpe blows wwith a mallet (protect the piston by covering it with a piece of wood) and hey presto, its working again. Next problem, wheel bearing was rattling, as said earlier probably from the heat generated by the rubbing disks and pads. Changed the bearing and reassembled. Now its runns lovely with no noise. However, when I get to around 50 mph, a massive vibration occurs from front passenger side. Only thing I've changed is the bearing, so I'm guessing it must be the bearing. I torqued it right up. Any ideas if you do get rogue bearings or maybe I've over tightened / Undertightened the hub nut?! Any ideas please. Im gona stripit again tomorow but could do with some clues as to what to look for?!! Cheers all.

I had a similar problem and and was simply a dodgy ignition lead. I'd check your leads and plugs before any bigger work.

ok ok ok!! Just trying to help. You may be able to clarify for me then, should there be 10mm float where the shock fixes at the top to the strut?

This is my shock as I tookit off yesterday. The black round piece on the top of the anodised blue dome cap is the bearing. There is the notched nut then tightened down, holding the springs on the shocker. The rubber cone (not shown) sits over the bearing. This then locates up into the strut (Inner wing) The gold metal plate then slips over the shock from the engine side, and then the nylock nut (shown in picture) tightens it all together.

Hey there, I've noticed it's the same with mine. The pics you have there are identical to how mine sit. I went out and bought new rubber top mounts, but the plate that you bolt on from the engine side still sits high. So if you jack the car up and take the weight off the wheel, you see the rubber mount drops slightly, and the weight is all then held on the metal plate. I was uncertain, but having checked with a local vw specialist, they have assured me this is correct?! Having worked on other cars it would usually be held tight in the strut, but it would asppear it isn't the case here? Hope this helps.