Joss_Durnan
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0 NeutralAbout Joss_Durnan
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Rank
Newbie
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Location
Ayrshire, Scotland
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Interests
Cars, Guitar, Archaeology
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Occupation
Archaeology Student
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Joss_Durnan started following Hello from Ayrshire!, Offside Window Mechanism, VR6 Difficulty Starting and and 6 others
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Hi Everyone, I'm looking for an offside window mechanism. If it has been tested recently, or can be tested before being sold, that would be great. If it makes any difference, the car is a 1993 VR6. Postage would be to Irvine in Ayrshire. Cheers,
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Ha, what are the chances. That was me. I used to keep track of this thread but nobody ever seemed to see me. Was always surprised given how often I drive her!
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The real cost of a genuine VAG VR6 exhaust...
Joss_Durnan replied to Joss_Durnan's topic in Engine Bay
I have read that in other threads, everyone seems to like Supersprint's offering. Not seen any complaints anyway! Ideally I think I'd still want an OEM exhaust, but the income of a student doesn't quite stretch that far :( -
I've suspected that the starter motor in my VR has been slowly dying for some time now. The problem has gotten worse recently, and it's made me think the problem might be something other than the starter. If I could avoid paying £140 for a new starter motor then that would be great! More often than not now, when I turn the key, nothing happens. The ABS light comes on as usual when I try to start it, but the starter motor won't turn at all. Until today, if I held the key round at ignition for a few seconds, the starter would eventually turn and start the car. Now though, it seems to be a lottery if the car starts no matter what I do. Also, sometimes the starter will turn, but fail to start the engine and make a horrible clunking sound before stopping. What do these symptoms suggest? The horrible noise and difficulty the starter has in actually getting the engine going makes me think it's the starter itself. But could the delay between me turning the key and the starter motor turning be down to bad wiring/ignition? I'd say the problem's fairly consistent. Maybe slightly worse when hot.
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My VR6 has been in dire need of a new exhaust for some time now, and since the car is almost completely standard I thought it best to get a genuine Volkswagen replacement. I had searched on the forums to see how much one would cost, but found a hard time getting a definitive answer. I went down to my local VW dealership this morning and asked them to price the parts for me. I figured I'd post what they told me, it might be of use to some people. Prices are inclusive of VAT. Catalytic converter: £561 (now obsolete) Middle and front sections: £617 Rear section: £444 That's excluding that various bits and pieces you'd need to actually fit the exhaust. Time to go down the aftermarket route I think!
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I downloaded VCDS Lite to see what it said, it stopped scanning at the ABS, something about there being too many error codes for me to look at unless I buy a licence. I don't have a multimeter myself, so I took it to the place I take the Mini and borrowed theirs. Electronics really aren't my thing, but all the sensor plugs gave similar ohm readings, so I suppose that rules out the sensors themselves. Anyway, I've got it booked in for Wednesday to get a diagnostic done. Hopefully, that'll tell me exactly what's wrong.
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Thanks for the replies everyone, they've helped a lot! I'll see if I can replace the sensors myself, they're not as expensive as I thought they'd be. I was panicking for a bit, still in two minds over whether to SORN the poor girl for a bit... running a VR on a student's income isn't easy!
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Apologies for posting another ABS thread, but the search engine doesn't seem to like three-letter searches. My VR6 failed the MoT test last week due to the ABS light being on. I should have known it would fail, it's always on and has been for some time. I'm fairly certain the ABS isn't working at all, but I've seen people in other threads saying that various fault codes can cause the light to come on. Periodically the ABS would violently engage for no reason at low speeds. This got worse, until it stopped completely a couple of months ago. The light has been on all the time since. Anyway, I had it booked in at a local VW specialist to get fixed, who suggested that it's almost certainly a faulty sensor. They phoned me today saying that the sensors are now obsolete parts, and it might be a while before they can source new ones. What should I do? Everyone seems to have problems with the Corrado's ABS system; I feel like I'd be better off without it all together. Is it something that can safely/easily be removed or disabled? At the moment all I plan to do is drive it somewhere quiet and brake hard to make sure it's definitely not working. And probably take out the ABS light bulb, otherwise I don't see an MoT certificate coming my way soon.
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Scottish Meet - Calling all Scot's!!
Joss_Durnan replied to Alex_G60_Fanatic's topic in Event Announcements & Discussion
Count me in. -
Didn't realise it was just a length of rubber hose I needed until I pulled it out. Even so, it took me ages to find somewhere that did the correct diameter. Tried a local motor factor, then Halfords, then the nearest VW dealership, who then sent me to a motor factor near them. Like Critical Mass said, the dealership was asking for £40 plus VAT, apparently it had been discontinued since 1997, but was on backorder. Got it for a fiver at the factor. Put everything back together, and it seems to be back to normal. I've not driven it far yet though, will be carrying an extinguisher until I'm sure it's settled! Thanks for the help guys.
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Nice to see another Scot on the forum! Also pictures please :D
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This is the first real problem I've had with my Corrado. I noticed a strong smell of petrol on the way home yesterday, but didn't get a look at it until this morning. One of the hoses that runs between the engine and the air filter box has a pinprick hole in it, spraying fuel away from the engine. It took me a while to find the leak, it's pooling above the wheel arch rather than dripping through to the ground. I'm more accustomed to the BMC A-Series engine, so the VR6 seems a bit like the Enterprise to me. Nevertheless I started pulling bits out to get a better look at the leak. In the attached picture, it's the hose in the centre, above the one with the blue stamps on it. I had a look around the forum to try and find somewhere that could supply a replacement, but haven't turned up much. I'm not even sure what the part's called, I guess it's just a fuel hose? Ideally I'd like to replace it with a genuine part. Can anyone suggest a decent supplier for me? Cheers
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Thanks for the info! I have been suspecting that the engine mounts are worn, never thought that would have much affect on the gear change though. The engine does seem to shudder sometimes - for instance when I declutch at very low speeds - that's what lead me to think the mounts are starting to go. I'll go out and give the engine a shake tomorrow. I've read the engine mounts are a fairly easy change, so that's good. They can't be more difficult than changing a Mini's anyway!
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I realise gear change issues seem to be the most common in this section - so apologies if I'm covering old ground - but I couldn't find much that was relevant with the search. My VR6 changes gear fine most of the time, some times it crunches first if I've been sitting in neutral for a while and 'catch it off guard'. But the main issue is when I accelerate. If I give it full throttle, particularly in the lower gears, it's impossible to move from one gear to the next. It's like I hit a wall, and have to move the gear stick back into neutral before selecting the next gear. I'm going to give the gear linkage adjustment a go, but that seemed more for when you can't get any gear at all, even at a standstill. I'd like to change the transmission oil too, but I couldn't find any guides on the forum. Could someone direct me to one? Ideally I'd have the Bentley manual - I'm assuming it covers things like oil changes - but I can't afford the £75 at the moment. Cheers, Joss
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I did wonder why the clock wasn't showing. That's another peculiarity actually, the clock resets to 0:00 when the car is switched off. So there's definitely a few electrical niggles to sort out!