Matt_N

The ecu relay is def 165-906-381 as that's what I bought and have just fitted. I'm not sure what relay the fuel pump is on? I'm just surprised that VW Heritage are charging twice the price of VW for the same part.

£20.95? That's a rip off, it's £10 plus vat from VW!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]53961[/ATTACH] Think there's meant to be a key here!

It's relay 30, part no 165 906 381.

I just bought a new ECU relay from my local dealer, but they do have a dedicated parts and service desk. Around £10.

Do you simply block off the lines going to the carbon cannister with bolts or something? Mine is still fitted and I noticed straight away that it could be removed to provide a lovely cold air feed. Airbox is already de-snorkled and has a K & N panel.

Found the problem... Woodruff key on the crankshaft sprocket is completely worn away! Crank bolt came undone by hand. Ordering a new one from VW tomorrow then going to fit and re time and pray! Should've checked first but as the crank pulley, cam and dizzy lined up we thought it was ok, doh.

Iirc there are two connections on the oil filter housing, both are connected, there is however a single wire with a plug on it that isn't but couldn't see anywhere that it would go as it is only as long as the others that are connected. Guess it's redundant.

Could the gearbox earth strap be at fault? Had it on a Mk2 Golf 8v before, which caused the ECU to open the injectors constantly, ended up with a sump full of fuel! Another thing to check later I guess, annoying thing is that we have already put a spare ECU on it already so may have potentially killed that! Also, could the blue temp sensor cause it to not start? Faulty ones tend to present themselves with eratic idling and poor performance don't they? Going to try a new one anyway.

Thanks for the quick replies. The ISV does seem to buzz a little when ignition is switched to on as we checked that too. Will do the TDC check mentioned above and see what's what.

Hi everyone, sorry my first post is one asking for help, but needs must! Picked up a G60 the other day that won't run and have spent the weekend trying to sort it. So far we have: - Checked the timing, cam pulley dots are where they should be in relation to the head, drive belt pulley mark lines up with the lower belt cover mark, rotor arm lines up with the cutout on the dizzy. The only thing that doesnt seem to be line up is the flywheel. The flywheel also only seems to have a scribed mark in it no the line with the 0 above it. Lining the scribe up with the V on the bell housing means the cam pulley and everything else is out. - First thing changed was the dizzy as I read that the hall sender can fail. This made no difference. - We checked the leads are on the dizzy and plugs correctly, firing order of 1-3-4-2, with plug 1 being nearest the timing belt and on the dizzy at the mark, then clockwise around the dizzy? - Tried a new rotor arm, cap, leads and plugs and it's still not running. Turned it over with the plugs out and leads connected to makesure we're getting spark and all 4 are firing. We also swapped the ECU for another. - It just turns over with the occasional pop like it's going to fire but then just carries on turning over. - When it's cranking over it is blowing a lot of black smoke out of the breather filter on the end of the ISV, believe the boost return has been deleted through this? - Did a compression test on and all 4 cylinders read 8.5 bar, is this normal / acceptable? - It's definitely getting fuel as we've been taking the plugs out and they are wet each time. I've also read that the crank pulley can be prone to failure on these, but assumed as the drive belt pulley mark is lining up with the mark on the lower belt cover that it is ok as the cam and rotor line up, but with the flywheel mark seemingly being out has put a doubt in my mind. At a bit of loss now as this is the first G60 I've had! Any help is appreciated, Matt.