jaxone

Thanks I understand what you mean now but I aligned everything as per your instructions. ALL dots are now in place, including the flywheel. On the flywheel I have to marks, an "0" which should be the TDC and an "|" which should be the ignition. I took out the tooth belt yesterday and aligned everything again. Now the flywheel sits on "0" , the intermediate shaft is spot on the "V" and the camshaft is with the two markings on spot (used your screwdriver technique ) as per your guide. I took out the dizzy and aligned it. Then turned the engine with hand 4 times and the dots match still. I did not tried to start it up today as I had no time but I think it will start up just fine. Will adjust timing when warm with the timing light and come again with the results but I am still afraid it will run rich on idle although the AFR gauge never goes over 14.6 or something like this, I still can smell fuel when idle and the consumption on MFA shows average 18L/100km !!! Insane.

Thanks for the answer but I don't understand how could my ignition be 180 dgrees out ? What do you mean by that. When I put the car at TDC all marks fit 100%. So how can my ignition timing be 180 degrees out ? Please elaborate a bit on this. Thank you again. ---------- Post added at 7:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:31 PM ---------- Hmmm, I think I forgot something from all this ... the intermediate shaft .... I totally forgot about it. So I adjusted that also and now it's spot on. What is the role of the intermediary shaft other than to spin the dizzy head ? Does it really matter on what position it is placed as long as the Ignition "|" mark it's spot on on the piston one ? I did not adjusted the ignition timing again as its pretty late here and the Hartmann pot makes quite some noise. Will try to adjust ignition again and see what gives but still interested to know the role of the intermediate shaft and the 180 degrees ignition thing. Thank you in advance.

hello and sorry for hijacking this :) I am a bit lost here because there are some differences on the guides I have seen on the net regarding ignition timing. This is what I could gather : 1. have the engine at working temperature. Let it idle. 2. Pull the connector on the blue coolant temp sensor 3. Rev the engine 3 times over 3000 rpm so the Digifant goes into programming mode. 4. Let engine Idle then bring it up to 2250-2500 rpm and set the timing with a timing light. 5. let engine idle. 6. rev engine 3 times over 3000rpm 7. LEt engine idle and put connector on the blue temp sensor. Now some guides will say after timing you need to rev it only once over 3000 , others say rev it 3 times over 4000. Then some guides say to put the blue temp connector AFTER you rev it , some say put it on before you rev it ? Which one is it ? I have tried today to adjust the timing on my G60 and while I was doing it I could see the exhaust manifold started smoking and looking at it I could see it started glowing RED !! Heating ! Is this normal ? Looks like unburned fuel to me ? Thank you in advance.

Hello forum. I have just bought a Golf 2 G60 and I changed the engine as the old one was making pretty much noise from the valves and 2 of the exhaust screws were broken in the block. Got another engine which had recently done the head and head gasket and installed it in the car. The new engine has a "slight" problem. When I first start the car when cold it would run pretty rough, like running on 3 pistons and it idles badly like almost stalling. If I accelerate and release the RPM will fall hard and it would almost stop ... almost. I can also smell unburned fuel on the exhaust and the spark plugs are getting black. What I have changed and done in order to try to fix the problem: - Checked compression it is 8.4-8.5 BAR (123psi) on all pistons. - Cleaned all the ground points. - Re grounded engine, battery, body with 6 Awg wire. - Re grounded head with 6 Awg wire. - Re grounded bolt on the back of the engine beside water hose directly from battery with 6 Awg wire. Changed parts : - O2 sensor with brand new NGK sensor. Tried also with another Bosch. - Idle stabiliser valve from my old engine that was running fine but with noisy head. - ALL vacum hoses. (the car has the charcoal canister removed) - Spark Plugs with new Bosch Platinum. - Ignition wires for all 4 spark plugs. - Distributor cap and pipe. - Thermostat - Blue and Black temp sensor changed twice with original VW sensors. - Knok sensor changed. - Tried with 2 other different throtle bodies. - Tried with 3 different ECU's, 1 standard and 2 tunned. - Adjusted the MAF to 500 ohm. - Ignition timing adjusted to TDC (don't have an ignition check light to test it while running but will have it checked monday). - Re made the injectors wiring with brand new wires and connectors as it was old and started to crack. I am now in the process of overhauling the G-Lader and see if the problem maybe lies there but at idle ?? The only thing I have not done yet is to take off the head and check the head gasket but the head gasket was done recently As soon as the engine gets hot no idle problems anymore. Car pulls nice and no hesitations.(as far as I noticed). Any idea what can cause the problem ? Anything that I forgot or overseen ? I am pulling my hair now and don't know what I have missed. Any new idea would be much appreciated.

Replaced thermostat, everything ok now regarding the temp gauge.

Hello. I recently bought a Golf Mk2 with a G60 engine in it and I have a few small problems among which this strange one with the temp gauge. The temperature gauge will never go more than 1/4 of the temperature scale. First I thought it is my gauge in the cluster and I replaced the whole cluster with a Figifiz cluster. On the new cluster the same, the temp will go at max 25% of the scale. Then I replaced the sensors, both the black and blue one ... same thing. I took 2 other sensors from another engine .. still the same issue. Isn't the black sensor the one that sends the temp reading to the cluster ? So with 2 sets of sensors changed, two different clusters (one analog and one digital) and the damn temp gauge still not working properly what else could be wrong ? Can be a relay ? Can be a bad earth somewhere ? Any other known issues ? Thank you in advance.