VW_chris

i use and have always just bought MANN filters, they have the non-return valve, easy to get hold off (5 minute wait in euro car parts) and cheap

im going to try a few things over the next week, i always get to the source of a problem, regardless of what it costs, aha.... ordered a primary stage for the coilpack, rather than just swapping it out for what i think are good coils, im putting in a known good (brand new) coil, when that turns up. im still on the look out for an ISV. im going to try replacing that first before i move onto the maf, as ive said, it doesnt make a noise on ignition, aparently its supposed to buzz? anyway, if i get the chance when i get in from work tommorow morning, ill do a bit more electrical testing. Im also going to try contact grease on the MAF, and have a go at closing the pins in the plug up a bit and see if that cures anything :bonk:

right, been out for the last hour working on it, gave it an oil change, wouldnt make a difference but i do it every 3 months, so its done. warmed it up, disconected the maf, it noticed it but didnt do anything, didnt stutter ect.... along with the ISV not making a noise when ignition is on, asuming its meant to, ill have to see if i can get a MAF and ISV asap..... whats best for a MAF assuming mines no good? used genuine parts or topran euro car parts crack?

did you recover the air directories inside of the airbox? they are covered in foam at the factory, which turns to dust over time, i pulled my dash out and just used duct tape to cover the plates up

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91749-Not-your-average-VR6-quot-TAP-quot-**ITS-FIXED**

yeah i had a not starting issue about a year ago and replaced the dizzy then, funnily enough it didnt fix it.... ill try disconecting the MAF when its hot shortly, im about to go out and do an oil change on it before i go to work..... so ill check that, as for the ISV, im tempted to replace the part but would sooner buy an OK/used part than something that cheap off ebay, but i think its one to buy.... youd think it would just be happy. ive just bought cams for it.....

right then where to start.... The problem the car idles rough/hunts (different every time you start/kill the engine) from 650, 900, 1000, 1100. it runs rough, it feels like its holding back (not as powerful as usual) its occasionally difficult to start, 2/3 attempts and 5/10 times pulling away from lights, it seems like missfires in 1st and 2nd but isnt a missfire? if that makes sense, as in the engines holding back for whatever reason. (may be a seperate issue, but the fuel pump relay clicks constantly on ignition :scratch: ????) whats been done 92 12v very early vr6 (original engine, slight mods) had the car scanned today, knowing the crank sensor comes up every time you scan a car regardless if its at fault or not, it was disregarded. it threw theese codes. 00533 - idle speed regulation - adaptation not set. 00537 - lambda sensor - limit exceeded. that would suggest an air leak. but there isnt one, all hoses have been checked, and double checked whilst running with brake cleaner. the front engine knock sensor (just behind the oil cooler) was knackered. causing the above problem to get worse, replaced with gen part, further issues disapread, leaving the original issues. ive replaced the HT leads, coilpack (single point version), cleaned out the dizzy/rotor arm, new spark plugs, main engine harness conector is ok, no corrosion inside, ECU has been out twice, stripped it down, no signs of tracing or any water damage. i read on vortex, a guy had a similar issue with regards to the fuel pump relay clicking, upon removing the ECU whilst leaving it connected, thus isolating it from ground, the fuel pump relay stopped clicking, i tried this out, whilst measuring what voltage was passing from the ECU to ground which was 0.32v. (to me, that instantly sparked, internal short. now, the ECU is meant to be earthed, other wise it would be isolated from factory. so the issue must be elsewhere, but why stopping that 0.32v earthing stopped the fuel pump relay clicking, i dont know) Electric testing..... query on the ISV harness, for those who may know, what is the supply voltage meant to be to that unit? im currently getting 0.86v at the unit on idle. from what ive read, the unit doesn't receive higher voltages until higher rpms??? also the unit does not make a noise, no buzzing on ignition, is that right?? Any feedback is greatly appreciated, any possible ohm ranges for resistance testing one the 12v VR6 ISV unit would also be great. god i love these cars.....

As per title, after a pair of duplex cam sprockets (duel link timing chain) and bolts. Many thanks chris

Ahh you see, the leak was at the pump, you have a feed pipe from the pump to the block, where the pipe joins onto the pump is where the issue was dude

RIGHT, where to start, for the last week ive been spending 5+ hours on it around work, which killed me, i slept for 20 hours straight after coming off night shift. then spent the whole weekend under the bonnet. ITS FIXED, the infamous vr6 "TAP" has gone. ive just spent the last 3 hours in it driving just listening to how amazing it sounds. no tapping, no hesitation, no dirty smells other than raw V-Power anyway, what is was... i reported back a couple days ago with regards to the oil pump being a bit ropey and the feed to the cylinder head, having the bolts half backed out, which was causing a serious drop in oil pressure, why the light never came on, i dont know, it must have been just above the threshold at which it comes on. that combined with sorting the wiring harness to the lambda sensor must have fixed it :cheers: so for all those who have a tappy vr6, check your oil pumps! 6 bolts and inspect to fooook, i dont know what the reason was behind the bolts being backed out, they were sealed with locktite, so they wernt going anywhere (ive never been in the sump) but, that seems to be it, i think after all that time of having a poor feed, it just needed a good run to get the oil flowing in all the right places again! suggest this thread is made sticky!!!!!

totally didnt expect this thread to get the response it has! much appriciated :cheers: after today, having flushed the system, replaced the radiator and header tank, as they were both knackered. still no change. with regards to the sensors in the thermostat housing, i believe they are all working and correct, yellow 4 pin, blue and black. i have replaced them, with no avail, i dont know anyone who has vagcom cabable of reading my car up here near newcastle, its the (old 2 plug) i have an adapter for it, however its been years since i last had it done... its a seriously odd one, the gauge on the dash is correct, feeling the hoses after driving then pulling up, and it feels about right. there not hot hot as id somewhat expect them to be after driving. i mean, this is the thing, i dont know what SHOULD be right, its a very very early late spec corrado, engine no 602. i dont know if its happy running at 70 or not, i can only go off what i know it should be sitting at, and used to sit at, untill i changed the water pump. i know people put low temp stats in ect, the one in mine is an 80 degree stat. i know these lumps run hot, before i swapped the water pump it would be scolding in there, it idles champion as well. stumped :scratch:

yeah, when i initially checked, it was around that price, im not fussed, its ran with low oil pressure for at least 3 years... which carnt have done them any good, if it needs them, itl get them

right, everything works champion, i had a **** load of bother about 8-9 months ago with regards to the fans not cutting in ect, which i solved by disconnecting some wiring harness at the fuse box (traced it back with a multi meter).... anyway, having replaced an abomination of a water pump, i now have another issue, it runs too cold.... [ATTACH=CONFIG]82456[/ATTACH] sitting around, on idle, everything works champion, heats up to temp, keeps going a bit more and the fans kick in at the right time ect. when im driving though, its as if the cooling system is too good? it goes no higher than 70 on the clocks... which is no good as its barely off warm up map. any ideas? i have got everything to do a cooling system overhaul today/tommorow, which if anything comes to light, ill report back, i tested the origional thermostat, which was ok, replaced it anyway as it looked ropey as hell, problem still persists. ive bought another themostat, on the off chance euro sold me the wrong one.... from there, ill be replaceing the radiator, obv the thermostat, cooling system flush and fresh coolant.

UPDATE Replaced my oil pump yesterday, however, in doing so i believe i found the issue, 2 bolts on the feed pipe for the cylinder head, were partly backed out, allowing oil to drop straight back into the sump... having fixed this, the engine has quietened down A LOT. but the tapping is still there. i will get the the bottom of this, genuine hydraulic lifters next month...

is it in decent nic dude? mines got a dint/bad paint, been meaning to get it painted for ages just havnt got the time to let it sit in a body shop for 2 weeks.... ill take it if its good :cheers: