advice needed on g60

[Bournemouth James 0]

I'm thinking of replacing my 16v with g60

 

I've seen one for sale on a j plate, havent been to see it yet,

its got 93k with fsh, 2 owners, abs, clifford alarm/immob

for £1995

 

the only thing that worries me is that its from a dealer, and that price it seems low

in my opinion you get what you pay for when buying from dealers so maybe theres somthing wrong with it.

 

what are everyones thoughts on this?

[VR6 0]

I would agree that that would be about the price you'd expect to pay for a private sale.

 

Bodywork could be crap. Brakes/suspension etc could all need doing. A lot of things are reaching the end of their life around 100k.

 

Buy Tim's (Rallye's) G60 engine and drop that into your 16v shell? about £1200 for the engine and it should be an absolute peach.

[G60Jet 1]

Jplate £1995 thats cheap or is it just and engine!!

[W3RKD 0]

go on go and have a look you never know i proberly hasn't had the glader done so the dealer is scared of it!!!

[W3RKD 0]

also yes ture drop tims lump in "very good engine buy the way!" but remember you are also gonna need the loom and modify the fuel pump to run on digi inj....

[Bournemouth James 0]

Jplate £1995 thats cheap or is it just and engine!!

 

£1995 is for the whole car, which is what i want

 

swapping the engine in my 16v is not really an option for me

 

I want to replace the whole car

 

I might go and see it tommorrow

 

Any tips on what to look out for?

[leew 0]

Here you go.

 

Corrado checklist

 

 

Body

 

Check for accident damage around inner wings and boot the boot floor. The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed. Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and at door sills. Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair

 

Check body for:-

 

Scratches

Dents

Rust

Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot)

Colour code ("mailshot" size sticker on the inside of the rear panel with the relative colour code,or an orange-red smallish sticker on the inside of the o/s/f wing):-

Dark Green Metallic LD6U 90

Green Pearl Effect LC6V 90 - 93

Khaki Pearl Effect LC6Z 92 - 93

Classic Green Pearl Effect LC6U 93 & 95

Dragon Green Pearl Effect LC6P 94

Lights for cracks inc. spots

Door handles are stiff

Chassis plates

 

 

Wheels & tyres

Kerbed alloys

Worn tyres (especially uneven wear)

 

 

Engine

 

Check:-

 

Oil cap(mayo)

Water (mayo)

Oil filter (should be VW or Bosch)

Timing belt (all belts when serviced) has been changed

Remove the big charger outlet pipe and check for oil. Has charger been rebuilt?

Check oil level

Engine noise (tappets and knocking)

Smoke from exhaust

 

 

Gearbox

 

Difficulty engaging gears.

2nd when cold

 

 

Brakes

 

Check handbrake

Condition of disks

Warped disks (brake judder)

 

 

Electrics

 

Lights

Indicators

Heater

Heated windows/mirrors

MFA computer (check mileage)

Electric windows

Rear spoiler standing and when moving (45mph)

Sunroof

Alarm/immobilizer

 

 

Driving

 

Make sure:-

 

Doesn’t pull when driving or breaking.

Engine performs as it should, pulls hard at about 3000rpm

No smoke

 

 

Check documentation

 

Log book (No. of owners)

Service receipts

 

 

That should keep ya busy :D

[W3RKD 0]

leew one thing you forgot !!! :lol:

CHECK CHARGER !! If its dead it gonna cost you over a grand to find one and service it!!

good luck...

[W3RKD 0]

Remove the big charger outlet pipe and check for oil. Has charger been rebuilt?

Check oil level

 

 

Oh no you didn't sorry :oops:

[leew 0]

You're going to have to try harder than that 8) 8) 8)

[DubWhiZZ 0]

This must be worth making sticky, its taken me ages to find it...

 

Matt

[DubWhiZZ 0]

Shamelessly stolen from SNS website

 

Copyright? Scmopyright!

 

quote

Do you know how to test your boost levels?

 

1. Start Motor

 

2. Move the MFA selector to "2"

 

3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding)

 

4. Stop motor

 

5. Start Motor

 

6. Release the MFA end button.

 

7. Press the MFA End button one time.

 

You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance.

 

Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got.

 

A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape!

 

USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments

15 200 -23.7

55 400 -17.8

90 600 -11.9

127 800 -5.9

148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed)

172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak)

192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak)

211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak)

228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley)

242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger)

255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!)

 

255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

/quote

Matt

[VR6 0]

This must be worth making sticky, its taken me ages to find it...

 

Matt

 

I presume you're talking about the buying checklist posted by LeeW?

 

There is a limit to how many threads we can sticky, otherwise it gets a bit silly if you have the whole top half of that forum filled with sticky threads (which usually people overlook anyway).

 

Tell you what, seeing as though I'm bored, I'll try and sort out a definitive Corrado buying guide for you. How's that?