Glowing manifold

[coullstar 0]

I picked up my new car tonight and promptly ran out of fuel 200yds later. The car was hard to start and would die after adding petrol but the guy I bought it of managed to get to going but on acceleration it was like it was miss firing. When I got it home 15min later I noticed the water temp was up to 110 and the exhaust manifold was glowing red. It was also eating fuel rapidly.

 

I have been in a 16v Golf before that had this and it turned out to be the timing. Does this sound right. It was jerking quite violently to start with so is it possible for the belt to flex enough to jump a tooth on the cam pulley?

[GIXXERUK 0]

sounds like timing to me, did it run on after you turned it off, check the colour of the plugs this should give you some indication and if you havent got a strobe i would set it up static or at least check it

 

check the belt isnt damaged , def smacks of timing tho

[Skimask 0]

Hi Coullstar,

It does indeed look like a timing issue. Check the static timing first and see if it has jumped a tooth. Failing that, check the distributer.

 

My 16V was running rough, and reset the timing, only for it to do it again, then the engine petered out. On checking it had gone 3 teeth out. Turns out the Crankshaft pulley was knackered. Caused me a lot of grief with a new pulley and crankshaft bolt!

[pablo_vr6 0]

the 106 did this and it was the coil pack.

 

melted the inside of the cat and back box tho in the process :(

 

was only running on 2 cyl or something evil like that.

[h100vw 0]

I picked up my new car tonight and promptly ran out of fuel 200yds later. The car was hard to start and would die after adding petrol but the guy I bought it of managed to get to going but on acceleration it was like it was miss firing. When I got it home 15min later I noticed the water temp was up to 110 and the exhaust manifold was glowing red. It was also eating fuel rapidly.

 

I have been in a 16v Golf before that had this and it turned out to be the timing. Does this sound right. It was jerking quite violently to start with so is it possible for the belt to flex enough to jump a tooth on the cam pulley?

 

 

I'd seriously check the bottom crank pulley. My Passat was 'all lined up perfect' according to the marks but the pulley was minus the key. It wouldn't run at all.

 

Also I had a plug lead fail, I had to drive about 30 miles on 3 cylinders, I think it did my cats with all the unburnt fuel. The tailpipe was all copper coloured and still is 3 months later.

 

Gavin

[Jim 2]

Oh man.. talk about a dishonest seller! The car can't of been running right when you bought it for it to act up this much 200 yards down the road.

 

Good luck getting it back on track mate.

[pablo_vr6 0]

did it run ok before it ran out of petrol? and did it really run out of petrol or just clap out?

[coullstar 0]

I know the guy and he wouldnt have hidden anything. When I took the test drive it was spluttering slightly at low revs but /i just dismissed it as t hadnt been used for a while. I will check the timing tonight and see. I was not going to use it till I had the cambelt replaced anyway so its not too bad.

[pablo_vr6 0]

id be back to the guy mate - he should go halfs on the work at least. id not dream of treating a buyer like that but i guess some people have no scruples.

[coullstar 0]

He will if it turns out to be something bad. He is not a bad sort and I have known him for about 20 years.

[pablo_vr6 0]

good job - hope you get it sorted :)

[coullstar 0]

Ok I checked the timing tonight and its spot on. This was after having to break the cambelt cover as I could not get my hand in the back to get the bolt out. There is a hell of a lot more crap in that area compared to the 1.8. The distributor is sitting just before the TDC mark and the piston was definetly on TDC.

 

How can you tell if the crank pulley is goosed?

 

Decided to replace the oil fliter as the other one was rusty and clean the air filter. There was a hell of a lot of thick sludge coming from the filter. Started the car after replacing the filter and it was fine :shock:. No spluttering and a little tappety. Quickly switched it off so as not to clog up the new filter. Realised that the water temp on the MFA is in fact the oil temp. Just goes to show you.

 

Going to replace the oil tomorrow but should I run the car to thin the oil and risk clogging up the new filter. Is there anything I can add to clean it out before replacing the oil?

[h100vw 0]

It'll drain faster if you run it. Other side of coin is that it will have drained into sump if you leave it overnight. I just do it either way depending on circumstances at the time.

 

Did you check the crank pulley AND the cam pulley were correctly timed. Even a few degrees will make a difference. I thought my G60 was timed ok but it wouldn't run. There was no key left in the pulley at all.

Gavin

[coullstar 0]

Gonna add some engine flush to the oil then replace the oil. Almost sure this is what was wrong. I just hope some damage hasnt been done.

The marks were pretty much spot on. With the cambelt getting replaced on Tue the guy will time it perfectly.

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Dont use engine flush.

 

Just get the car warm (hot) and then drain the oil and change the filter (again). Run it for a bit more and drain it again (prolly should change the filter again) if you can afford it. Engine flush just makes things worse on engines that haven't had a flush before.

[coullstar 0]

Why? Surely the flush will break down any gunge and allow it to flow easier? Not even a little?

[Scruffythefirst 0]

flush will break down any gunge

 

it willl, but if you've never used it before it'll remove a lot of the gunk that would normaly never move. which just increases the chances of killing the oil pump, clogging the filter and oilways. Unless the engine gets it regulary from the begining it can be a disaster. It can work well but if it was my engine i wouldnt take the chance. Apparently it doesnt release all the crap in one go either - takes a couple of hundred miles to shake everything loose. By which time you'll be driving along merrily on what you think is clean oil. Some people swear by it but not me. I'd much rather do lots of regular oil changes with the oil nice and hot. If theres a lot of crap in there dropping the sump and washing it wouldnt hurt.

[coullstar 0]

I ran the engine for 5 min then added half the bottle of flush and ran for another 10min. Drained oil and replaced. Car started fine and now runs as it should. When I took it for a 15min B road run the oil temp was still reaching 105deg. To me this seems pretty high. The water temp was getting up to 90deg.

 

I never changed the filter I put on last night. Could this now be clogged up and cause the high oil temp?

[h100vw 0]

Doubt it very much, you will have half a litre of unchanged oil and flush in the motor though. 105deg isn't excessive really. Need to get up to there to get rid of condensation in the engine.

 

Gavin

[Henny 0]

according to the Corrado handbook, you should only get worried when the oil temp gets up to 145degrees! :|

 

Personally, if mine gets above 120 I know that I'm either thrashing the utter hell out of it on a track, or something's not quite right... :lol:

 

105 is a nice operating oil temp for an engine... 8)

[coullstar 0]

Cool!!! Its just my other one never gets near that temp. I remember the G60 getting that high.