wideband tuning...

[steveo29 0]

okay ive decided a wideband sensor would be a good idea

 

ive got a kit coming from usa and i dont know jack about what ratios to expect

 

anyone give any g60 realted advise?

 

maybe a stupid question..but could i like put crock clips on it and sling the sensor up the tailpipe so i can test mates cars

[h100vw 0]

Ask GazzaG60 Steve, he knows a load about them. He has spent eons tuning his mates Scooby using a wideband. I don't think the tailpipe is the best place to shove it.......

 

Gavin

[Guest]

defo.. your get 'watered down' readings. It need to be where all the gasses meet or in one of the down pipes...

[steveo29 0]

i was hoping not to permantly fit it

[W3RKD 0]

are you getting the LM1 wideband. if so u can just screw it into your existing lambda socket. stoich is 14.8:1 afr.

[steveo29 0]

yeah im getting the lm-1 , so what about the existing o2 sensor ? waht do i do with that

 

talk me through it if dont mind please

[Dubcharged 0]

Hi mate, got your email. Basically the closer the sensor is to the engine the better, usually the position of the standard lambda is good. You could stick it up the exhaust (ensure an earth if needed) but as mentioned, your results will be diluted, ie not as rich as the engine is seeing.

 

If you use the existing lambda hole then make sure you disconnect the harness of the standard lambda to the ecu when you take that out(follow the wires up and you'll see the connector).

 

Discnnecting the standard lambda will mean ecu wont get signal to trim fuel on idle and part throttle but that wont matter since you are only looking for the results under full throttle.

 

Take the car out and floor it from say 2500 rpm all the way to red line in 3rd gear. You should get an air fuel plot which stays within 12:1 to 13:1.

 

You cant trim this with the CO pot effectively since that only works within a boundary. If there are any big rich spots causing a flat then i can tweak your chip to take out the fatness. However if there is a big rich spot due to injectors tripping to 100% duty then you basically need to to bigger for more control. (I doubt this is the case with yours though).

 

Let me know how you get on.

[steveo29 0]

thanks bilal

 

is there anyway i can check the c/o pot is set to the ideal setting with it?

 

i will report back once ive done some testing..i should recieve it next week sometime

 

cheers

steve

[steveo29 0]

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcar ... 250&page=1

 

just seen that they do a exhaust clamp for non cat cars..i may try to make up something like that

[steveo29 0]

just a quick question...g-man says 14.8:1 and bilal 12-13:1

 

i now both of you know your stuff..so what is it

 

and one more thing..is there any special precautions to take, to help it last and not break /damage

[W3RKD 0]

14.8:1 is stoich @ idle.

Bilals figures are under load on bizooost. :lol:

[steveo29 0]

would it read true idle with the orig sensor disconected?

[olly elworthy 0]

i have an lm1 wideband and`ll be posting up some air fuel plots for my car after the weekend,

was going to first set the mixture with the co pot to 14.8:1 at idle then take it out for some full power runs and see what the fuelling looks like under load,

[GazzaG60 0]

i look for 14.5 and 11.5 on boost for jap. Jap cars need more fuel cos they are made out of shit, especially ones runnig uber big turbos(T04R). that make power at the redline. place the probe near the original o2 sensor not too close to the heat source though. The AUX box or inductive pickup is worth using too. a AF over revs graph helps finetune individual cells and the fuel/TPS increases needed.

 

when the guys test other cars they use a exhaust clamp to test/tweak customers cars after boost increases etc.

[steveo29 0]

olly..did you fit yours permantly or temp??

 

i was hoping i could set the idle with the up the tailpipe test, then try iy in the o2 sensor postion for a run or two

 

btw...are these lm1 easy enough to figure out? or do i need to be super brainy

[olly elworthy 0]

i welded a secondary bung in on my rrado and i use a home made exhaust probe, clamp for other cars,, but yeap you could set it at idle from the exhaust and then check in the stock location for some full throttle runs,

[steveo29 0]

okay cheers, its just arrived so im off to investigate

 

any tips on making the exhaust probe?? does it need to be earthed to the pipe?

 

steve

[olly elworthy 0]

i`ll take a couple pics of mine that i fab`ed up mine is earthed to the pipe as its all metal,,

[Chris VR6nos 0]

An "ideal" fuel/air mixture in which both the fuel and the oxygen in the air are completely consumed is called the "stoichiometric" mixture. The stoichiometric mixture is usually specified as the ratio of the mass of air to the mass of a particular fuel. For example, if a fuel required 10 kg of air to precisely burn 1 kg of the fuel (that is, all the fuel burned and there was no oxygen left in the air afterwards) then the stoichiometric ratio for that fuel would be 10:1.

The stoichiometric ratio of air mass to fuel mass for petrol as 14.7 : 1, but don't specify the composition of this petrol.

gasoline (without oxygenates) 14.6

 

An oxygenated fuel with 89% gasoline and 11% MTBE(methyl tertiary-butyl ether) would then have a stoichiometric ratio of 14.281.

 

Ultimatelly a ratio of 14:1 A/F and nearer 15:1 under hard acceleration

 

Bet you find this interesting!

Hydrocarbon stoichiometry calculator

 

 

Chris

[steveo29 0]

cheers olly