G60 Head gasket

[olly elworthy 0]

and me too I have had my big valve head on my bedside cabinet for the past three months think i am going to fit it on saturday morning,, :D

[olly elworthy 0]

hey henny what injectors do you run?

[Henny 0]

my 1940cc lump runs red tops with 3.5bar FPR and a customised SNS chip

[olly elworthy 0]

thanks for that,, been thinking aboutthe red tops with the big valve head,, dont wanna be going lean with the new head flowing allot better,,,

[bix 0]

Not sure if they have 1H head bolts, but there all about a quid here!

 

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/

[Shaggy 0]

looks like were all going to be having a go at the weekend then! :) lets just hope it all goes to plan... will it be ok to run the car with my stage 5 sns chip for a week or so until i get it custom remapped etc etc, i will take it easy i just dont wanna cause any damage with it running to rich / lean.. 8)

[potatonet 0]

yeah headgaskets are fun arent they? you see the next time I do the headgasket I am going to o-ring the block so that I never EVER have to do it again!, this will also be when I convert to 2.0 liters, and when I put a big valve head on.... about 5000 US I am expecting... 2500 US for the 2.0 liter and 2500 for the head....

 

anyone got a big valve head (stripped) that they want to donate? :lol: :lol: :lol: :-P

[Henny 0]

mike_g60, I ran my 1940cc G60 with red-tops, 3.5 bar FPR, 69.1mm toothed pulley kit etc on the standard chip while I was running it in! Just made sure I never used over 1/2 throttle and NEVER took it over 3K rpm... As long as your Lambda sensor and knock sensor are working properly, you shouldn't have a problem as the ECU will yank the timing RIGHT back if it starts to pink and should control the fuelling enough to stop it having dangerous problems... An SNS chip would be even better as it'll be even closer to what the end map will be... 8)

[olly elworthy 0]

i was thinking of putting the 3.5 bar FPR i have spare on mine until i get it mapped as a safety measure,, gonna be doing a FMIC at the same time too,, as seems pointless me spending £££ on a remap if i havent done all the mods i want first,, just gotta decide what cam i want to use,, Mike what cam are you using? i cant decide on a kent 266 shrick copy 268/276 or the piper G60 cam,, decisions decisions

[potatonet 0]

keep the standard cam, my neuspeed 268/260 creates the worst idle in the history of man, very lumpy... =-(

[bix 0]

i was thinking of putting the 3.5 bar FPR i have spare on mine until i get it mapped as a safety measure,, gonna be doing a FMIC at the same time too,, as seems pointless me spending £££ on a remap if i havent done all the mods i want first,, just gotta decide what cam i want to use,, Mike what cam are you using? i cant decide on a kent 266 shrick copy 268/276 or the piper G60 cam,, decisions decisions

 

Iv a schrick 268/276 idle isnt too bad at all, it is worse but nothing to worry about, did make it go a bit better, and definitely made the exhaust louder!

[potatonet 0]

I agree with that, much more upper end though, you'll notice it when you get to 6k rpms and notice that 7k comes REALLY quickly, rev limiter doesnt like cams very much. (dont worry a very cute girl was driving I was inhebriated in the passenger seat I just remember her hitting the rev limiter 6 times... sheesh shift already!

[C. Will Corrado G60 2 0]

Does anyone have a engine code for a 1h block as I'm trying to order a head gasket from GSF and they need a engine code to order it.

 

Cheers

[bix 0]

1H is the engine code, the head gasket is the same as that of the PG block, vw part b 037 103 383 L

[Shaggy 0]

well got everything in today ( big valve head, camshaft etc etc) timed it all in etc, it seems ok although i think i need to adjust the vernier pulley slightly as i cant seem to line up the timing marks dead on?? when i went to start it i noticed watery deposits coming from boost return pipe, and also there was mayo on cap!! s**t i thought, i ve buggered the gasket, but it went after a while? is it a chance that this maybe just be water thats found its way into the oil passages when taking the head off? there was still a bit of water coming out when i removed head and this went into bores etc etc, i mopped everything up and i looked ok, so i didnt think anything of it... :oops:

[h100vw 0]

Yeah Mike, run it for a while, it'll be condensation I am sure.

Vernier will need messing with to get best power anyway.

Gavin

[Shaggy 0]

thats alright then, when i first started it , it sounded like an old forescort cvh engine it was so tappety! tho that went after a while, i suppose it takes a little time for all the oil to circulate.. looks like i am going to have to take it easy for a month or so whilst its all running in aswell.

[Shaggy 0]

*that would be ford escort* bit tooo early for me i think!

[Shaggy 0]

also , can anyone point me in the direction in what is the best way ( without an advance setting timing gun) to time the engine to the best i can get it? i cant seem to find anything on my bentley manual to guide me....

[h100vw 0]

http://www.snstuning.com DIY section says

 

I'm going to tell you something about timing. Each car is different, and

each car will need to be timed to the best performance given conditions

(gas,temperature, etc). It's best to touchy feely tune it in this respect. I

can tell you to set it to 6 or 8 degrees, but there might be more. Too many

factors depend on the ultimate result, which you want, the maximum power

given the circumstances.

 

That being said, I suggest you, on a warm day, with good fuel, mark the

distributor and cap with some paint or white out.

 

Then unbolt the 13mm lockdown bolt in front of the distributor. Left =

advance timing (more power), right is retard.

 

You want to advance it a little bit, run, it will make more power, but you

want to listen for ping (marbles rattling when you first give it gas, thats

pinging or too much timing), then at the high rpm if you feel any stumble,

thats detonation, your knock sensor will pull out power, and it will feel

like your car is missing a heartbeat (Bad stuff).

 

Of course, if you live in a cooler climate, like canada, you can push a lot

more timing. If you live in Cali or CO with 91 octane, you are going to have

to back out timing most likely. Our chips dump a ton of timing as it is, so

don't get crazy and expect to run 14 degrees of timing unless you happen to

have some handy dandy (100-114) race fuel in your car.

 

I hope you find this information valuable, you'll see that there are a ton

of little tricks to squeeze out more power, and eventually you'll realize

how tempermental the motors are. Ultimately, with a little bit of elbow

grease, you can squeeze a little more power here and there it all ads up. A

g60 making 15psi of boost, but poorly tuned, and maintained, is going to get

spanked by a 13psi G60 in tip top shape!

 

 

A timing light is still the best way IMO

Gavin

[olly elworthy 0]

Mike which camshaft did you decide to use in the end?

[Shaggy 0]

i used the piper 270 cam in the end, i am running it in at the moment so i couldnt really tell you what the difference is at the moment, although i was told it gave good gains in power and torgue throughout the rev range, i will let you know once darren has finished with it after ive booked it in for a day at g-werks, prob gunna go ahead and get a 65mm pulley and toothed belt drive kit aswell now.... 8)

[olly elworthy 0]

your gonna have one awesome G,, hey you seen the figures that woody has gotten out of his,, pretty impressive,,

[Shaggy 0]

i know!, i was quite suprised at those figures just goes to show what a remap can achieve with the rite mods. just noticed that theres water pissing out of the crappy plastic flange that holds the blue and black sensor on the head, and also there is a crack in the smaller one on the side! looks like i had better pay a visit to VW and get some new ones.. 8) well i could be worse....

[olly elworthy 0]

yeah just change them mate they dont take too kindly to being disturbed,, get brittle with age,, wont cost you allot for those two and the correspoding o rings,, :thumbleft: