2_Door_fun 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Darren said 2DOOR - If you read through you should of found the paperwork you were supplied with at the time of purchase you would of noticed one part was the TUV and the other part explains who the adjustment on the rear dampers work. Darren if you remember my order it took 5 weeks of lost parcels (via Royal Mail) and a lost BB outlet kit. My shox came direct from Germany with little documentation. Weitec sent you the wrong kit for me at first a 70/70 kit I think. I wanted the 35/35 or so. However saying that I have nothing but praise for the service from yourself. My rebuilt charger pulls like a train and the help you gave me on my car was invaluable. So I'm not bad mouthing you nor anyone. I just commented on a post. I love the Weitec kit the ride is wicked. Well comfy and not like say an Eibach setup I have had on other cars. Spykee Does the change you have made to the rears mean the car no longer sits level wih the Rd. If you understand what I mean. The Corrado's arch's are not level so the car would now have a slight tilt to the rear?? If that makes sense :?: :roll: Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Glad yr all sorted mate... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Bob, im not sure what your asking? are you asking if the ride is lower at the back than the front or level with the road? the rear is still a little higher than the front but i think this is relatively normal with a fwd car and i am happy with the ride height as it is. any lower and the car wouldnt get off my drive! does that help with your question? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted July 17, 2006 2_Door_fun, sorry if it looked that way it want ment as a general comment about how-to's and was in no way directed at you.. lets all be happy again now..:lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Yay! :multi: :multi: :multi: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted July 17, 2006 2_Door_fun, sorry if it looked that way it want ment as a general comment about how-to's and was in no way directed at you.. lets all be happy again now..:lol: The man of G Oh yes be happy don't worry. :D Spykee yeah what I meant was although I guess it would have to be a massive drop to see easily.. Was... Does the sill of the car sit at an angle towards the rear of the car. Ie with dropping one circlip on the shocker tube The whole car will drop a little at the rear. As you said though the rear still sits a little higher so I guess you can't pick it up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Does the sill of the car sit at an angle towards the rear of the car. Ie with dropping one circlip on the shocker tube The whole car will drop a little at the rear. well i dropped mine 2 circlip grooves, which was the lowest it would go. the sill still sits at a slight angle to the rear of the car when compared to the road but its not that noticable now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Hi Spykeeeeeeeee. So how did you remove the circlips? Was it a tough job. The rears are easily removed in 10 mins so i may have a play tomorrow evening. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted July 17, 2006 1) use a set of spring compressors to take the pressure of the base plate. 2) turn the whole strut upside down and pushed the base plate down away from the circlip. 3) use a set of circlip pliers to release the clip from the groove that it is sat in and slide it up the shaft of the strut into the one closest to the bush on the base end. 4) then slide the base plate up to seat it back onto the circlip and release the spring compressors so that the spring is back in place and you all done! give that a go and see how you get on. it took me about an hour per side including taking the plastics out of the boot above the stuts, jacking and removing the lot, cutting down my bump stops and putting it all back together after doing the circlips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted September 11, 2006 Had a busy afternoon doing this. Removed the struts and dismantled em. Cut the bump stop. Removed the circlip slid it down to the lowest notch on the shocker tube. Car looks great but spring plate is now sitting on top of the rear tyre??? :lol: The edge of the plate is just sitting on the shoulder of the tyre. I'm running on OZ Titans...205/40/17 Any answers???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted September 11, 2006 raise it one notch and see how it goes is all i can suggest, other than that you might need some wheel spacers...... my 15" BBS wheels are close enough to the spring's base plate so im sure that yours are rubbing a treat! it might look a little high to begin with, the back of mine did even on the lowest circlip setting but its been about 6 weeks since fitting now and the car has settled really nicely! my 90mm spoiler now catches a helluva lot though if im not careful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2_Door_fun 0 Posted September 11, 2006 Hi MAte. Rubbing Rubbing :wink: If I started driving the plate would slice the tread from the wall. Yeah I guess spacers are the way forward.. More expense ahh these cars. Still ya live n learn. To be honest I never give the wheels a 2nd thought. its kinda like no worries others have done this :oops: Best place for spacers anybody.... As an edit. Moved the circlip one notch up this morning and all is well. Car looks much better Will have to look into spacers at a later date. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
