DIY Head Rebuild

[ardandy 0]

Is a head rebuild (VR6) something best left to a garage/specialist or is it something that a reasonable DIY'er could do? :?

[Toad 0]

Some parts of a head rebuild are pretty DIYable, but the head *should* be tested for flatness and skimmed, some people get away without either, but i don't like the idea of it, also, a pressure and a crack test are a good idea too, none of these things can be done at home really, I'm not sure about grinding the valve seats either, think that's best left to a decent machinist, although I have seen valves being put into a head without the springs and a drill used to spin them up, and "grind" them in, that was a very very agricultural application however and really isnt reccomended.

 

To save money, bypass the garage, they only send them off, go straight to a specialist, Owslebury cranks in Winchester are very good, and have been going for years, but there's bound to be someone local to you.

[ardandy 0]

So is it DIY'able to take the head off and then send it off myself and then put it back on? Or should a garage do that too?

[Toad 0]

If you are confident enough to take it off, then yes!! you can even strip it down if you want to save even more money, I've just sent the head in fully built before and picked it up built back up. I've not had much to do with VR's but there is a group buy on the engine manual somewhere on the forum, get one of them (they're about £6 i think), that'll help a lot.

Just be very carefull with the head, my mate had a Landrover tdi300 head to put back on this week and one of his mates was about to stand on it, que much panicy shouting!!!

[NickVR6 0]

how much is a full head rebuild then if you drop it off and pick it up with valves guides and tappets

[Toad 0]

For my 16v, I think it was around £300, that included all 16 valve seals, guides, skimming, pressure and crack testing and a rebuild and came back with a head set (all gaskets and bolts) I didn't have to buy a head set from them, but it was cheaper in the long run as they needed the stems seals from the set.

 

I think valve guides are around £5 each, so a Vr head is £20 cheaper than a 16v in that aspect, I imagine skimming and testing are similar money, and stripping down and re building would be a similar amount of time, there must be plenty of people here who've had it done.

[ardandy 0]

Is it possible by taking the head off for a garage to tell whether its top end or bottom end?

[Niges16V 0]

I managed to do my 16V OK and I'm no grease monkey! You just need to have some quality tools (the money you will save in labour will justify a few purchases), suitable place to do it and some patience - it's only nuts & bolts after all (just that some are impossible to get off and places you can't possibly imagine how to get to!).

 

As for costs, I think it was £250 +vat for the refurb + parts and you can price those up at GSF.

 

It costs a fortune at a garage as it takes some time to remove all the gubbins. Have a look for yourself, once you've shifted the air intake pipes, HT leads, coil pack etc there isn't much else to do. The hardest bit I found was the exh manifold due to rusty bolts and my fingers aren't 8" long.

 

Good sense of achievement when finished, as well as a nice smooth running engine!

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

mate u defo need patience i've just refirbed my mates 2.0ltr 16v head on his mk6 escort now gonna fit it this weekend! should be funny as never done it before!

[Toad 0]

Is it possible by taking the head off for a garage to tell whether its top end or bottom end?

 

What do you mean if it's top or bottom end?

 

That is letting gasses past? I think the test is to put petrol in each of the bores, and if the rings are leaking, it'll run past them, if not I suppose it indicates the valves aren't seating well.

 

I managed to do my 16V OK and I'm no grease monkey! You just need to have some quality tools (the money you will save in labour will justify a few purchases), suitable place to do it and some patience - it's only nuts & bolts after all (just that some are impossible to get off and places you can't possibly imagine how to get to!).

 

As for costs, I think it was £250 +vat for the refurb + parts and you can price those up at GSF.

 

Do you mean you did a complete re-build with valve stem seals and guides? How did you re-seat the valves? going old school and lapping them in with grinding paste?

[iow_corrado_g60 0]

thats what we did toad accompanied with a bit of good old spit!

[Niges16V 0]

Do you mean you did a complete re-build with valve stem seals and guides

Naa, took it to a cylinder head shop, I think it's best to let someone who know's what they're doing attmpt that bit, especially on a much luv'd mota!

[cata 0]

I have a schrick big valve head and am saving up for some 268* Schrick Cams and chip.

Is it hard to replace the cams? While I'm in there, I want to reduce "valve float" as much as possible so other than titanium retainers what other parts should I upgrade and would it be easy enough for the "weekend mechanic" type of guy.

Thanks for any help or advice.

[cata 0]

So no one wants to share their knowledge and fill in the blank spaces?

 

A link to a reputable store that carries what I need would be enough if it takes too much effort to enlighten a newbie.

 

Yes, I used the search and can't find any info on these damn Schrick heads, for all I know it has those parts (other than the cams and chip) already in it. Not that I'm complaining that I have one or anything :lol: