Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
g60bv

vr6 timimg chains on 0bd11 on 53k miles.

Recommended Posts

ok. my friend has a golf vr6 on r reg. 53k and it had delveloped a rattling noise when accerlating, very noticable between idle and 1500rpm.

we've been told its the timimg chain tensioner. but is this right at only 53k miles with full vw service history .? and does any one have any pic of the work being carried out. don't really want to spend £800 to fix if we can do it in the garage. any help thanks ian.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds very unusual...

 

I had a timing chain rattle on my 69k mile Corrado. When I removed the tensioner and removed the plunger from the big bolt head part, I noticed a very small lump was missing from piston seal. So when the engine had been standing for a while you could really hear the chain rattle on starting and about 1200rpm when warm.

 

Worth a quick check, just make sure you bleed it properly before you put it back in again. Lots of guides if you search on the forum.

 

Anyway I replaced it with a new part and it's been silent ever since.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, that seems very early to be worrying about chains. But we all know how variable these engines are, mine needed a rebore after 60k.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sounds very unusual...

 

I had a timing chain rattle on my 69k mile Corrado. When I removed the tensioner and removed the plunger from the big bolt head part, I noticed a very small lump was missing from piston seal. So when the engine had been standing for a while you could really hear the chain rattle on starting and about 1200rpm when warm.

 

Worth a quick check, just make sure you bleed it properly before you put it back in again. Lots of guides if you search on the forum.

 

Anyway I replaced it with a new part and it's been silent ever since.

ok. excellent. how do you check the tensioner.

sorry guys. i know nothing when is comes to more than 4 pots.

you mention the big nut. is that the big one on the back.? and whats behind it. pics and help very much obliged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some pics of my faulty tensioner.

 

Now I don't know if these are the same on the later engines but should be similar.

 

This is what the complete tensioner looks like.

tension.jpg

 

And this is the piston when removed. Note the split in the seal.

tension-piston.jpg

 

The large bolt lives on the right hand side of the engine at the back, probably under a few plastic covers.

 

Hope this helps?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that is perfect. . is it just a case of replacing those bits.?

also you say that bolt/ tensioner is faulty. how can you tell.?

thankyou every one for this infomation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tensioner comes as one piece, the picture shows the centre part removed and the brown seal has a lump missing from it (middle of the white scribble, sort of black dot - sorry the pic is a bit fuzzy).

 

Best bet is to remove the one from your mates car and pull it apart. Inspect the brown seal for damage, it should have a nice even sharp edge all the way round.

 

But before you start, make sure you have a 6" deep tub of some kind to fill with clean engine oil. Because before you put it back it needs filling with oil and all the air / bubbles etc need bleeding out. Do a search, plenty of guides around for this. But basically you have to immerse the whole part and work the plunger in and out to get it about half way out.

 

It's a bit trial and error and it will pump up on it's own but it needs enough to keep the chain tension while start for the first time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We bought my wifes vento vr on 58k and it it had a little chain noise. It also had full vag history, but im sure thats not the cause ;-)

 

Anyway, its got progressively louder and is now on 120k and is, well, very very noticable at 1200rpm, textbook tensioner noise. But there you go, it still get used "properly" and we are pnly just kinda thinking about doing it now.

 

From discussions i've had, its not rocket science but is a big, time consuming job. Parts will cost you around £400 to do the basics properly as you may aswell do the clutch while your in there.

 

Its gearbox off, front off the car, rad out etc etc iirc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...