StuartFZR400 0 Posted June 4, 2007 Had a stab at replacing these rear sensors at the weekend. Seemed like a nice job at the end of a sunny saturday. It didn't go to plan. Undid the sensor and then pulled at it; sure enough the cable came away with part of the internals, but missing the metal outer sheath and sensor; those remained stuck in there. The outer sheath would not collapse and therefore was stuck in. Therefore opted for option B, to remove the disc and punch it through from the other side. However the carrier bolts are totally rusted on and a reasonable amount of force on a 2.5ft bar did not seem to budge it. Fearing of shearing the bolt heads, I've resided to taking it to a garage where they can get some heat on these bolts. :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simon69 0 Posted June 4, 2007 Had a stab at replacing these rear sensors at the weekend. Seemed like a nice job at the end of a sunny saturday. It didn't go to plan. Undid the sensor and then pulled at it; sure enough the cable came away with part of the internals, but missing the metal outer sheath and sensor; those remained stuck in there. The outer sheath would not collapse and therefore was stuck in. Therefore opted for option B, to remove the disc and punch it through from the other side. However the carrier bolts are totally rusted on and a reasonable amount of force on a 2.5ft bar did not seem to budge it. Fearing of shearing the bolt heads, I've resided to taking it to a garage where they can get some heat on these bolts. :? Replaced the rear bearings on mine at the weekend, the trick with the carrier bolts is plenty of penetrating oil (I prefer plusgas) go away for a cuppa (or beer lol) drip a bit more penetrating oil on and get in there with the 1/2" drive breaker... make sure the 8mm hex is well seated though, sometimes it's best to give it a tap just to make sure it's fully home otherwise you run the risk of it slipping out and rounding the internal hex off (not to mention you smacking something fragile against something hard / sharp / pointy...) Oh an for what it's worth, I "crack" the carrier bolts before doing anything else, that way there is more space to work (without the caliper etc getting in the way) I guess it may pay to mention that it's a good idea to have it well supported on a decent pair of axle stands too as you tend to have to "swing" on the breaker tee hee... Cheers Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StuartFZR400 0 Posted June 5, 2007 yeh cheers Simon, I know. Just giving a bit of an update really. Got nothing more penetrating than WD40; I certainly made sure the 1/2 drive was well and truely in and car was secure on stands (new purchase from Machinemart) - for anyone else using stands, I often use wood between the cup face and the car, as wood doesnt slide the same as metal on metal. As said, will get my friendly garage to do it; minimal charge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simon69 0 Posted June 5, 2007 Yea, did not mean to imply you did not know. Good call on the wood, I use some old flooring rubber but it does the same thing. I'd like to think C forum members would be sensible enough to use proper stands lol... Not two piles of old house bricks like the chavs I watched working on an old Nova this afternoon! Natural selection at work I guess ;) Simon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edd 0 Posted June 12, 2007 how about you feed your abs light from your oil pressure light feed :D that should get it thru! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simon69 0 Posted June 15, 2007 how about you feed your abs light from your oil pressure light feed :D that should get it thru! I did, it did ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
