REAR SUSPENSION

[Tedb 0]

I have a knocking noise in the rear suspension of my 2.0l 16vlaver, the local garage diagnosed rear axle bushings. These have just been replaced but the noise continues. I noticed in the cold dry weather the noise was very obvious especially in the first few minutes of driving. Furthermore it doesn't seem to be making any noise in the wet weather leading me to believe that it's some form of rubber bushing which when it gets wet doesn't make any noise. Does this seem to make sense?

 

I had all 4 shocks replaced some months ago all round, could one of the rear shocks be loose? The noise is coming from the left (passenger) rear wheel area.

 

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

Cheers

[chubbybrown 0]

exhaust boucing off the rear axle?

[Tedb 0]

well, it's woth a look but I'm not too hopeful

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Top suspension mounts?

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[davidwort 0]

you need to make sure all the bushings and washers were fitted correctly in the right sequence and the right way around, they may simply need tightening from inside the boot.

[Tedb 0]

Thanks Guys, I'll have the Garage look at that, I assume it's not a job I could tackle myself? The shock really needs to come out to see that everything is tight/OK, would that be right?

 

Cheers

[davidwort 0]

Thanks Guys, I'll have the Garage look at that, I assume it's not a job I could tackle myself? The shock really needs to come out to see that everything is tight/OK, would that be right?

 

Cheers

 

rear shocks are easy to take apart as you don't need a spring compressor, just put the back on 2 axle stands and undo the bottom shock to beam bolts, carefully lower the rear beam and support slightly lowered, not dropped to the ground, then you can remove the whole rear leg by just undoing the top nuts. Easy to inspect, take apart if needed and put back together, pretty much all you need is a 17mm spanner, and a screwdriver and 8mm socket to take the parcel shelf supprts out with.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Not really a do-it-yourself option if you have to take the suspension units apart, unless you have spring compressors and a good set of other tools. Take it back to where you had the shocks replaced and get them to check it over.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Tedb, you are now thoroughly confused by 2 opposite opinions on whether or not you need spring compressors !!

 

Davidwort are you sure you can take the unit apart safely without them. I agree that the bushes, spacers, bearing etc. above the top spring plate can be slid off of the damper piston but if the spring top rubber is broken or displaced, then the spring needs to be taken off which needs a compressor.

 

Anyway Tedb, I think that your best bet is to get it looked at by the installer of your dampers.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[davidwort 0]

yep, it's only the front that need the compressor/clamps

 

done this loads of times, makes no difference if you have lowered springs either.

[Dec 1]

Easiest way I've found to do it (if you don't have spring compressors) is to use the weight of the rear of the car to compress / decompress the spring.

 

Just remove the rear speaker shelves to get access to the top of the strut. Undo the nuts labeled '15' in that etka diagram, and remove the upper rear suspension bush (13). Now when you jack up the rear of the car the spring will gradually de-compress itself! When you have it up to a reasonable height, check the spring is loose and isn't still under compression. Stick an axle stand under the car, undo the bottom suspension bolt (3 + 4) and the shock + spring will simply drop out of the car. Just do this in reverse to get the shock back on and the spring compressed!

 

Pretty easy job...no need to take it to a garage at all!

[davidwort 0]

instructions below from russian VW site, article for 1990 corrado:

NOTE: DO NOT remove both suspension struts at same time, as this

would overload axle beam bushings.

Removal

1) With vehicle on floor, remove plastic cap which covers

upper strut retaining nuts. Remove strut retaining nuts. Slowly raise

vehicle until weight is off spring. Remove bolt which retains lower

end of strut shock absorber to axle beam mount. Raise vehicle until

strut can be removed. Place strut assembly in vise.

2) Hold piston rod. Remove strut retaining nut and related

components. See Fig. 1. Remove slotted nut (some models). Remove

spacer and coil spring. If coil spring is to be replaced, ensure paint

stripe color on replacement spring matches original spring color

stripe.

Installation

1) Install protective cap and tube onto shock absorber.

Install rubber buffer with small end downward. Install snap ring and

washer. Place spring into lower seat. Install upper retainer with

spacer sleeve.

2) Tighten slotted nut (some models) which retains piston

rod. Install upper mounting hardware. Tighten piston rod. To complete

installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to

specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE at end of article.

SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY

CAUTION: When removing suspension assembly, add weight to rear of

vehicle to prevent tipping resulting from change in center

of gravity.

Removal

1) With vehicle on floor, disconnect upper strut mount. Raise

and support vehicle. Disconnect parking brake at bracket near axle

mount.

2) Disconnect and plug brake lines. Leave flex hose attached

to suspension. Separate brake pressure regulator spring from axle beam

(if equipped). Remove nuts which retain axle beam to body.

NOTE: DO NOT install bolts and nuts fouled with undercoating. With

waxy coating on threads, true tightening torque cannot be

measured. Clean or replace bolts and nuts.

Installation

1) If axle beam mounting has been removed, adjust mounting

pad. See Fig. 2. If pad is not correctly aligned, torsional preload of

mounting bushings will be incorrect.

2) Position rear suspension on body. Install nuts retaining

axle beam to body. Raise wheel. Guide upper end of strut into body

mount.

3) Connect parking brake cables. Connect brake lines. Lower

[Tedb 0]

Thank you all for your contributions and suggestions. No I'm not confused really, just terrified.....no I'm only joking, it's not a job I'd tackle and there are many that I would. I owned a Lancia once and I removed the front shock, I didn't have the appropriate equipment, the spring flew up in the air, glanced of the side of my face, (left a fair bruise) and ended up about 50 feet away in the Garden 3 houses down.....lesson learnt, safety first.

 

Cheers Guys

[davidwort 0]

Thank you all for your contributions and suggestions. No I'm not confused really, just terrified.....no I'm only joking, it's not a job I'd tackle and there are many that I would. I owned a Lancia once and I removed the front shock, I didn't have the appropriate equipment, the spring flew up in the air, glanced of the side of my face, (left a fair bruise) and ended up about 50 feet away in the Garden 3 houses down.....lesson learnt, safety first.

 

Cheers Guys

 

the rear mk2 golf/corrado shocks are pretty simple, it's the first sort of job I attempted on my first car, easy to do with limited tools, you just need a flat hard standing area and a jack and axle stands, save you a fortune in labour.