sheared G60 bolt no compression on cylinders 2 and 4

[potatonet 0]

sooooo you guys will love this one...

 

driving home 10 pm @40mph and all of a sudden my engine dies, I hear a thump thump thump and I think "I blew a rod! nope....my engine wouldnt die like that" all of a sudden my crank pulley set (all three gears/pulleys) goes rocketing out from underneath my car. I think "whoa ok.... I sheared my crank bolt". It goes left then right then left again, across 4 lanes of traffic.... Im sitting there coasting following it... (no drivers on the road thank god)... and follow it up a hill to get it back all battered and bruised.

 

I look at my car and I see the bolt sheared off inside... "Im screwed" haha literally...

 

question is to all those g60 folks how hard is it to get out with an EZ out.

 

btw this crank bolt and gear was replaced a little over a year and a half ago. f{_}ck VAG parts cause they suck.

 

anyone got a better alternative to ordering another VAG POS bolt. I cant order DX bolts here, we dont have that motor.

 

thanks guys.

 

 

Go to page 2 to see compression stuff

[flusted 0]

why dont you get 1 of us to get you a dx bolt and post it to you?

[davidwort 0]

... my crank pulley set (all three gears/pulleys) goes rocketing out from underneath my car...

:shock: :lol:

 

That's pretty funny (providing it doesn't cost you much to fix)

 

reminds me of a couple of mates who bought ex-racing school British Leyland MG Montegos from Silverstone racing circuit, first day they had them they pulled up and the front brake calipers fell off, the racing school had swapped back the original brakes for the racing ones they'd had on whilst in use at the school, no one ever admitted t odoing the job though!

[VEEDUBBED 0]

I still don't understand how the hell these crankbolts snap??,i've rebuilt loads of engines and never had this problem on any engine,G60 PG's,valvers even normal 8v engines and i don't think i've ever bought a new crank bolt,simply because of the hassle with the stealer.

Surely something's not correctly tightened/torqued down,dirty threads,muck inside the crank nose hole kinda hydrolocking the bolt whilst it's being torqued down,old thread lock binding the (used) crank bolt??.

[davidwort 0]

I still don't understand how the hell these crankbolts snap??,i've rebuilt loads of engines and never had this problem on any engine,G60 PG's,valvers even normal 8v engines and i don't think i've ever bought a new crank bolt,simply because of the hassle with the stealer.

Surely something's not correctly tightened/torqued down,dirty threads,muck inside the crank nose hole kinda hydrolocking the bolt whilst it's being torqued down,old thread lock binding the (used) crank bolt??.

 

re-used stretch bolts?

From what I can see the bolts are f-ing hefty things and all they have to do is hold a keyed pulley in place to drive a few belts, it's not like they're hub nuts, granted they drive the charger in a G60, but the problems seem pretty common on NA 4cyl cars.

The main problem seems to be them coming loose after being incorrectly fitted.

[Supercharged 2]

Potato - have you tried ordering the DX bolt over there as we have no probs ordering US parts here...

[potatonet 0]

let me quote the stealer... "we dont make that motor in the USA so we cant order parts for it..."

 

if anyone has a part number I know where I can order one from...

 

Im gonna use my degree right now and do metallorgraphy samples on DX bolts and the bolt I have and see if there is any difference as far as noticable.

 

 

this bolt was brand new when I got it. The area in which it broke shows deformation in the bolt beforehand, hardened steel bolts dont do that, (I was assured it was a hardened steel bolt.

 

also if anyone knows the size of the bolt and the thread pitch I might be able to order an ARP bolt in that size. ARP = Teh god of bolts

[potatonet 0]

I would bet it sheared because Im driving a charger that has internals at least 3 times heavier than a g60... I guess if that were the problem then I would need an ARP bolt.

 

maybe I should tell darrin @ G-werks considering the size of a charger he was going to throw on his rallye G60...

[nino 0]

bolt that is original is m14x1.5, threaded portion is 33.14mm, flange is 29mmx 4.2mm thick, and the star head is 21.5 across points by 9.3 deep

pic below

[potatonet 0]

nino I

 

that... oh man you have no idea how useful that is!

[ninoG60 0]

happy to help, if u need a dx bolt n washer let us know and can get 1 to ya like has been offered earlier in the thread.

[potatonet 0]

ARP makes a bolt M19AZ1.525-1T that is a perfect replacement and I already ordered one. 25 USD each but worth it..

 

 

torque value on the ARP bolt is 105 ft lbs its got a 190000 psi tensile strenth =-), lets see that baby shear off!

[ninoG60 0]

m19?

the bolt i showed u was m14,

m19 as in 19mm od?

would that not be too big or am i missing summat ( as usual) :D

[potatonet 0]

no they use M19 for the wrenching code. its an M14x1.5, 38mm length, head size is 31mm (will need to be resized) , nothing else really matters in this case. the 38mm I am a little worried about but I have a washer and would thing vw wouldnt be stupid like that.

[Supercharged 2]

That sounds ok - with the DX bolt you also use a large washer to give it the same length as the shouldered one...

[potatonet 0]

only thing I am worried about is the depth, the stock bolt was even threads all the way down and is only 33mm my new one is 38mm. hope vw threaded their cranks far enough... cutting ARP bolts = compromising strength

[Supercharged 2]

So thats why you need a 5mm washer similar to what the DX bolt uses....

[potatonet 0]

DUR!

[potatonet 0]

I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16" drill bit into the bolt and it went through like butter! no wonder these bolts snap...

 

driller the main hole for the easy out from the pilot hole, once again easy as butter...

 

getting the bolt out... not so much easy as butter...

[potatonet 0]

ok... sooooo here is what I have been doing

 

1. replaced the bolt with an ARP bolt for a mitsubishi 2.0L turbo motor, 25 USD for the bolt hahaha! torqued to 130 ft lbs

2. replaced water pump (was about that time)

3. put everything back together.

4. crank over. car runs on 2 cylinders.

5. compression test all cylinders.

6. cylinders 2 and 4 are dead compression.

 

Now you will have to follow me through these next assumptions. A G60 fires in 1,3,4,2 order, when I took the timing belt cover off (after getting it home) I was almost at tdc for cylinder 1. so follow me here now. can I assume that since 1 and 3 have great compression, 130 psi, I have no bent valves? and can I also assume that since 2 and 4 are the no compression cylinders that I only bent the intake valve on cylinder 4 and the exhaust valve on cylinder 2? If my bolt broke on cylinder 3 firing wouldnt that mean that cylinder 4 was finishing its intake stroke (valve still open), and 2 was just finishing its exhaust stroke/ starting its intake stroke? Im unsure of cylinder 2 but I know cylinder 4 is only intake.

 

anyone follow me?

[kongo127 0]

I had a broken crank bolt just one year ago (while on hoidays)...

 

It wasn

[potatonet 0]

yeah I have a 268 cam so it will hit.

 

timing belt is set up correctly, I read 0 on both cylinders when doing a compression test.

 

yeah its kinda crappy but its a great excuse to remove my motor and make it a 2.0L while I have the chance.

 

so soon it will be a 2.0L on 18 psi, we will see how that works.

[kongo127 0]

Well it seems to be an excellent excuse to go for a bigger bottom end! :lol:

 

1.9L is the ideal!

 

There are some mate

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Potato,try first just changing the hyd.tappets on the damaged cyl.'s,a few years back i was changing the timing belt on my 16v.T engine and i dropped a bolt into the running timing gear,ok the engine was idling but it made a horrendous racket because the belt jumped a few teeth...

I removed the head to find that all the inlet valves had just kissed the piston crown edges(16 KR head on PG G60 block+pistons),the valves were perfect,only the hyd. tappets were smashed causing the engine to run on 2/3 cyl.'s

First check by pushing down on the tappet's top,if you can push the head of the tappet down a few mm's i reckon the tappets could have taken some of the punishment.

[potatonet 0]

yeah except I can see the bent valve =-(

 

 

its fine with me I have a spare car to drive around right now. and I wanted a 2.0L crankshaft in there anyway (this also gives me an excuse to invest in all of the ARP bolts I wanted in the past)