Ashley 0 Posted August 26, 2007 just put the clutch down on the rado and the clutch pedal came up high then when i put it back down nothing sat on the floor, the rod to the clutch pedal has snapped, can the rod be changed of is it new clutch master cylinder :( its a 1.8 16v by the way. is it a pig of a job, im an apprentice mechanic so have the tools but im going to have to do it on the driveway because i took the week before e38 off :( any help appreciated. please help. Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 26, 2007 If the rod has actually snapped then its a new MC then i'm afraid, not too bad to get to but you should also replace the slave at the same time... My mate bought a master from GSF last week, cost £70 and was a proper VAG boxed part, slave is another £30 Unusual that it has snapped (or maybe just popped out?) - if it's actually snapped then the master must be shot I reckon... You will need an eezibleed etc after fitting new... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley 0 Posted August 26, 2007 bummer well the rod which connects to the rubber which connects to the pedal, looked at first to have come out, however there looks to be a bit of the rod left in the rubber piece :( why do you suggest replacing both ill get a mate or an easy bleed i think where is the slave cylinder positioned is the bit that is positioned on the bulkhead the m/c ive looked for a haynes manual etc but cant find a manual, any ideas. any ideas on how to disconnect what i think is the m/c from the bulk head, is there just one fluid pipe connected to it, i can only see one which i think is connected to the bottom. please help. cheers Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 26, 2007 Ok - basically the slave is the smaller (cheaper) one on top of the gearbox which actuates the clutch (follow the pipe from the master) The slaves usually go as the originals were metal sleeved inside and rot eventually (or quickly due to lack of fluid changes) - It's normal practice to change this with the master as it will fail eventually so i would unless it looks new... The pipe from the res to the master is just a feed (so no pressure), take half the fluid out the res before removing... I would suggest unbolting the slave and master and taking the hole lot out with pipe attached altho if you can get to them it may be worth cracking the nuts holding the pipe open with a brake spanner while they are secured to the car... The master (as you'll see from the new one) comes with 2 studs (one sticks out slightly bulkhead side to hold a small metal bracket) - it's held onto the pedal box by 2 13mm nuts (inside the car) Hope that helps - good luck with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 26, 2007 Just to add - no Haynes manual for a Corrado altho the MK3 Golf one should cover the hydro clutch setup altho what I have written above will probably explain things better and in more detail so you might as well send me a cheque for £14.99 :lol: The only manual really worth buying is the US Bentley Manual that is specific to the Corrado but only covers the 2.8 VR6 and G60 engines... look on Amazon.CA Be interesting if you find out what has actually failed - could be just that broken rod but I wonder if something else has caused it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley 0 Posted August 26, 2007 ok think i get that lol, ill check it over first thing in the morning, glad ive got the week off now else id be totally foobared, just another thing to add to my list to get done along with the other halfs 16v golf list that im in the middle of doing whilst im off :( thanks for the help looks like ill be heading to gsf again tuesday morning then :( cheers Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted August 26, 2007 Yeah - typical that it happens on a BH so you can't get the parts... GSF should have the bits in stock tho and also sell Eezibleeds - if you are a member of the Corrado Club you should also get 10% off... It's not a difficult job btw - if your an apprentice it's same level as changing a couple of brake calipers - POP! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley 0 Posted August 27, 2007 cheers dude il keep you posted as to the actual problem. hopefully i should get the bits a bit cheaper, as i get quite a good discount from GSF due to the amount of parts ive bought from them for my past cars and mates cars, plus being in the trade helps. i cant believe they dont do a haynes manual for the corrado, oh well im quite familier with the kr engine due to mates with mk2 golf 16v etc, its just the box and clutch setup im not so familier with, im guessing its just the same as any other hydraulic clutch setup tho, if it had been a mk2 golf i would probley have been able to sort it yesterday, ive got enough spares lol. and there was me thinking great ive got a spot on car that isnt going to need any mechanical work for a while, except servicing etc, then a week later up pops this, doh, the clutch actually felt quite nice and light compared to what im used to lol oh well im sure ill sort it. oh the checks in the post for being my haynes manual, as long as your on call 24/7 you never know i could need you at 2 in the morning for something lol. cheers Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley 0 Posted August 27, 2007 right finally got a chance to look at it. i take it the two what look like 13mm nuts at the back of the clutch pedal are holding the master cylinder in place on the bulk head. the blue braided hose from the brake master cylinder to the clutch master cylinder is where its fluid comes from, so just drop the brake fluid level below that and i should have no worries with any fluid leaking from the brake master cylinder. then undo the pipe at the bottom of the master cylinder to remove it. that pipe then goes to a flexi pipe which then goes to another piece of hard pipe with a coil or two in it, this then attaches to what i think is the clutch slave cylinder, which looks surprisingly clean, as does the rest of the engine, the hard pipe also looks in good condition so i think i may not need to change it. i managed connect the clutch pedal to the rod, and the pedal doesnt feel heavy or stiff, so i suspect the clutch master cylinder is fine and its just a case of the rod failing, but unless i can change the rod seperately, i suspect its new m/c :( bloody long explanation lol, does this sound right. cheers Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
