Big end bearings G60 - need information please!!

[officejunkie 0]

HI guys - This :censored: car is starting to treat me to all sorts of problems.

 

Last night i had the stereo off and while at the lights I hear a rattle - only occurs between 2-3000 rpm. So I do a search - the symptoms all point to my big end bearings. Fantastic - another weekend covered in oil!!

 

So anyway I been looking around everywhere and i know how to change them but I need to know the following little tit bits of info. If you guys could help me that would be great.

 

Are GSF a good source for these bearings? - Will they be made of cheese like the originals? if GSF are good for them, what part number is it? They dont seem to list any engine parts for the corrado? - I do know i need ones with an oil hole in them..

 

Also I thought - while im in there - why dont i change the conrod bolts for something more decent!! So i look around on the the tinterwebnet and ARP do a set - However - most of the time ARP require you to press a pin in to there and then tighten with a nut - with ARP botls for the G60 - are these the type that need pressing in? or is it a simple BOLT bolt?

 

and finally how much torque do these conrod bolts require?

[steveo29 0]

ive read if you fit the arp bolt set you need to get the rods checked/machined as the increased torque makes em not round

 

i bought vag ones...didnt wana risk dodgy unknown parts

[coolrado 0]

 

Also I thought - while im in there - why dont i change the conrod bolts for something more decent!! So i look around on the the tinterwebnet and ARP do a set - However - most of the time ARP require you to press a pin in to there and then tighten with a nut - with ARP botls for the G60 - are these the type that need pressing in? or is it a simple BOLT bolt?

 

and finally how much torque do these conrod bolts require?

 

have a look on volkswagen.msk.ru for all of the torque specs and manuals.

 

the conrod bolts are pressed in as standard and are stretch bolts so will have to be replaced when you change the bearings anyway, the main bearings dont seem to show much wear but if you are removing the crank the main bearing shell bolts can be re-used but the flywheel mounting bolts are stretch bolts and also need to be changed.

 

the replacement bearings are now made from a slightly harder material as the originals where a bit too soft appearently.

[steveo29 0]

no need to take the crank out....can do the big ends with the sump and oil pump off

 

the big end bolts can be re used once

[officejunkie 0]

Thanks for the replys so far lads. Much appreciated!

 

I was reading this walkthrough here I found while scratching around on Google.

 

http://mysite.verizon.net/janvdb/vw/Eng ... _Swap.html

 

he says that you will need to replace the bolts as the stock ones are stretch type and cannot be re-used? He then goes on to say that the bolts can be removed by tapping them with a small hammer lots of times. I'm not convinced the new bolts will go in without taking the whole engine apart as i'm sure as that new bolts would need pressing in? can anyone confirm that?

 

My car has only done 78K - this shouldn't be happening!! :roll:

[coolrado 0]

yeah thats correct as far as i know, from what i have read in a couple of manuals and heard from a few VW mechanics, the conrod bolts are use once stretch bolts that have to be pressed in and out, they are only meant to be re-used for the purpose of measuring the play with some plastiguage, i have heard of people re-using them but one of those people had a bolt snap which destroyed the engine and the bearings in the other one lasted a few months before they started rattling as the tension on the bearing cap was incorrect, ARP bolts can however be re-used as they are not stretch bolts.

 

this wasn't an issue for me as my engine was completely stripped bare, but if you want to change the bolts you will need to have the head off and pull the pistons and rods out of the bores to change the bolts, there is no way i would tap the bolts out while it's all assembled, they where hard enough to remove when they where out of the engine :wink: .

 

I only mentioned doing the main crank bearings because for the price of new bearings its worth doing for peace of mind but only if you have the engine out and in bits.

 

70 odd k does seem a little low for them to be worn out, unless its been thrashed or run on crap oil, are you absolutely sure its the big end bearings that are causing the rattle?

 

If it does turn out to definately be the big ends, depending on how bad it is i would just live with it until you decide to do a complete rebuild, as if you have the head off to get the pistons and rods out you might as well do the piston rings and bores while your at it then if you have gone that far you might as well do stem seals, valve seats, bearings ect..........

 

My big end bearings where rattling for about 20k miles with no problems apart from the annoying mid rev rattle, and when the Crank was measured for wear there wasn't any so its not really an immediate threat, mine started to rattle at about 100k.

[steveo29 0]

ive re used my bolts..and know several people that have as well no probs, lots of talk on vwvortex about it

 

they should tap out with the engine in, and i guess its not a bad idea to replace them anyway

[officejunkie 0]

Steveo, How many miles you done since replacing your shells? Im thinking your right you know. cos after a good look on VWvortex (sorry lads i really should have dug a bit deeper there, but still makes good sense to have this info here as well)

 

apparantly the bently manual says the following

 

"CAUTION!

Do not turn crankshaft when measureing radial Play.

CAUTION!

Connnecting rod bolts may be reused only once when checking radial play with the engine installed. After checking radial play mark each bolt on thread side with center punch to show bolt was used once already."

 

 

So i think i will reuse my bolts one more time and then scratch/mark them so that if I need to look under there again I know they have been reused once already. I know its always good to replace them but this means totally taking my engine apart and thats not an option at the minute. One day I will want to fully rebuild my engine...

 

I have a friend who has done this job on his engine (a toyota MR2 Turbo) he reused his bolts and hes gone 50K without a problem..

 

BTW I couldnt get the PDF files from that russian site to work. I suppose I could get this info from Autodata.

[steveo29 0]

not sure how many miles...was at least 5 yrs ago and it still runs lol

 

maybe 20 k odd?