ignition switch

[David Winter 0]

Hi.

Ive just bought a new ignition switch because I want to unwire the start switch that someone had wired to my vr6 I asume because the original ignition switch is duff. Ithought it would be obvious and simply a case of disconecting the wires going to the swich. Can anyone see what I need to do here?

[boost monkey 0]

Woah, your car been stolen much?! :shock:

 

Am I right in thinking you have an aftermarket start switch then? The ignition switch should fit straight onto the larger connected you have labelled. You can test it will start the car with something small and pointy (like a key).

 

If you are looking to rewire that connector then I'm sure someone can post up a wiring diagram.

[David Winter 0]

The ignition switch should fit straight onto the larger connected you have labelled.

 

This large wire I have labelled is the bit that goes to the aftermarket button that I have pulled out of the dash.

[boost monkey 0]

Ah I see. I reckon if you take that wire out (and the 2 small blue connectors) you should be able to plug an OEM switch up to the large connector.

[David Winter 0]

Yes maybe it could be that simple. I think I may be confused by the non standard imobiliser wires.

[David Winter 0]

Ive just tried disconnecting the start button wires and connecting back up to the old switch and the ignition comes on but will not turn over. So I tried conecting the multiplug to the new switch and turning with a screwdriver but still will not turnover. Does turnover only if I reconect the button start.

[Dec 1]

The heavy gauge red/black wire on the plug is the wire for the starter solenoid. It looks like it has been cut and an immobiliser spliced in. Check the connections on this.

 

Then make a heavy duty jumper cable out of a small section of heavy duty wire (I used speaker cable) and jump the middle pin of the plug (red wire) to the red/black pin. the starter should start to turn.

 

If the starter turns when jumpered but not with the new ignition switch it's probably be a dead lock mech itself. The inner mech behind the key barrel can get worn so it wont turn the ignition switch enough to connect the starter solenoid.

[David Winter 0]

The heavy gauge red/black wire on the plug is the wire for the starter solenoid. It looks like it has been cut and an immobiliser spliced in. Check the connections on this.

 

Then make a heavy duty jumper cable out of a small section of heavy duty wire (I used speaker cable) and jump the middle pin of the plug (red wire) to the red/black pin. the starter should start to turn.

 

If the starter turns when jumpered but not with the new ignition switch it's probably be a dead lock mech itself. The inner mech behind the key barrel can get worn so it wont turn the ignition switch enough to connect the starter solenoid.

 

 

Yes you are right it has been cut. I can see the other end of this black and red wire but want to keep the immobiliser working. I thougt about reconnecting them but am worried i will short out the imobiliser or something.

[Dec 1]

It will simply bypass the immobiliser if you reconnect them (although the immobiliser will still probably work on the coil connection, which would be the black wire cut the same way).

 

I reckon they cut a section out of the wire to make it more difficult to reconnect either end, and therefore prevent theft.

 

Your wiring 'should' be fine if it's starting using the button though. Try jumping the two wires (with the immobiliser deactivated) to see if the starter spins though.

[David Winter 0]

If the starter turns when jumpered but not with the new ignition switch it's probably be a dead lock mech itself. The inner mech behind the key barrel can get worn so it wont turn the ignition switch enough to connect the starter solenoid.

But it does not work with the new switch connected and turning with a screwdriver. But does work with the button start reconected to the same wires with the new switch.

[David Winter 0]

I must conclude I suppose that the imobiliser has been fitted after the button start. Does this seem right? I am affraid wiring is not my strongest point.

[Dec 1]

Is it the black/yellow and Red wires that have the button fit between them? They look like they are just spliced in, so could just be removed without problem.

 

The starter solenoid id the only item on the switch that's activated when you turn the switch to position 3. Everything else is activated when you turn to position 1/2. Your button wiring looks like it's taking 12v switched from the black/yellow wire and feeding it down the black/red wire when the button is pushed.

 

Ideally you want to take 12v from the red wire and feed it down the black/red wire when the key is turned. You said you turned the switch with a screwdriver. Did you physically fit the new switch in the lock mech and turn it with the key barrel removed, or plug the switch into the wiring connector and turn the switch on its own?

 

Are you sure you turned it all the way around to Position 3, in that case?

[David Winter 0]

Dec. Thanks for your imput on this.

Here are some more pictures. The first was taken before the start button was removed. The second as it is now with the new ig switch plugged in. I have only turned it with a screw driver but am affraid of forcing it too far so maybe have not turned it far enough. Do you think I should fit the new switch properly first and then see what happens with the key?

[Dec 1]

My only concern with turning the switch itself with a screwdriver would be that you would damage the plastic fitting where the lock mech fits in. But you can check if you are turning it far enough with a mulitmeter. If you take the switch out make sure you are getting continuity between the pins where the red -> red/black wires go, when you turn the switch.

 

If the switch is brand new, I'd assume it's working ok. You are definitely getting 12v up the main red wire, and it looks like the starter button was spliced in on the ignition switch side of where the immobiliser? That would mean that the wiring there is ok, as it was working on the button.

 

I have a feeling that you are not turning the ignition switch far enough with the screwdriver, as that's the last link in the chain. To be 100% sure on the wiring, just jumper the red -> red/black pins like I suggested earlier though.

 

Fitting the new ignition switch may still not get the car to start if the actual lock mech itself is worn. But at least then you would be sure of what the problem is!

[David Winter 0]

Ive tried what you sugested jumping those wires and it does indeed turn over so im going to fit the new switch properly and see what happens. As you say I may not be turning the switch enough as I dont want to trash a brand new switch.

[David Winter 0]

Just to conclude this, once the new switch was fitted properly it did indeed work properly. The key now starts the car as it should and no more Heath Robinson bodge up button start. :D Now the fun really begins with the heater matrix at the weekend :pale: