SLAMMING a corrado (lowering)

[Guest]

lol, I see what ya mean chris ;)

[G60 0]

 

this is mine, not to sure how low it is, but it only rubs when cornering hard and going over big bumps.

i pushed the lip on the front arches flush.

 

mine's about that low... but on 15"s.

 

"I'd have lost the exhaust by now if mine was that low..."

 

yep... its happened. pulled over.. knicked some stones from a landscaping storage lot, propped the exhaust up on those.. went in the YMCA and grabbed a coat hanger... tied it up and went home, dirty. :roll:

[LowG 0]

u ppl do the traction each time u lower it or take it higher? you must as your tires will not wear out evenly,traction will be lost aswell.

 

migs

g60 (for sale)

[W3RKD 0]

Surely the wheel gets further back in the arch as the car lowers, unless the suspension arm has gone above the horizontal line..?

 

no it doesnt the wheel gets closer to the front of the arch like richard says..

[Nik Patel 0]

mines lowered about 50+ and the ride is bit hard

 

the tyres rub at the rub on the inner chassis leg, the backs sometimes rub on the outer wheel arches on motorways when the road surface changes and i got people on the back. This has resulted in bits on tyres being shredded, but i now getting the rear rolled by R tec

[supercharged_devil 0]

...Im running avo coilovers ruffly 85mm at the frt and 70 at the rear, no arch modds 7.5 X 17. One big problem is I use at least a pair of top front bushes per year (powerflex and bonrath), the later have lasted the longest so far

[G60Jet 1]

Yuk that looks terrible! A 15" wheel with a 195/50 is smaller than a 17" with a 40 series tyre, contrary to what G60 Jet was saying. If you fit 17s you have to lower it more to make the spoiler as close to the ground as it was on 15"s. You will get some fouling on the inside of the front arches whilst parking, just ignore it. The rear arches will need to be trimed a little at the front edge as there is usually a part of the flange which protrudes a bit and as the car gets lower, the wheel moves forward in the arch.

 

if the diameter is larger on the 17wheel/tyre then its got the wrong tyre size on it as the rolling radius should be the same. which was my whole point and as dr_mat says the car becomes illegal cos the speedo underreads. if a wheel tyre combo are done correctly then the rolling radius of the tyre will be more or less the same. there is a website that tells you the size tyre you need on a given rim to match the rolling radius of the original rim and tyre combo.

 

its easier said the done though as the size tyre you need isn't asways available.

[G60Jet 1]

http://classic2.alfisti.net/english/ser ... ndaten.htm according to this site you should be running a 205/35/17 to match up the rolling radius of the original tyre/wheel combo

[Boola 0]

no no no!! Lowering to that level doesn't give a drivers car.. You say it only rubs when driving hard but thats what you bought the car for, isn't it?? You don't need any lowering to make it handle like a dream, just a decent balanced setup.

[W3RKD 0]

no no no!! Lowering to that level doesn't give a drivers car.. You say it only rubs when driving hard but thats what you bought the car for, isn't it?? You don't need any lowering to make it handle like a dream, just a decent balanced setup.

 

yes totally agree with you there some of these cars are far too low on here!! they are compremising handling just to scrape and rub... get a -50mm car corner weighted and it will out handle anything with standerd dampers 911's inc.. i know cos i have easilly out handles my bro's carrrea 4 on roundabouts.. :lol:

[Henny 0]

no no no!! Lowering to that level doesn't give a drivers car.. You say it only rubs when driving hard but thats what you bought the car for, isn't it?? You don't need any lowering to make it handle like a dream, just a decent balanced setup.

 

yes totally agree with you there some of these cars are far too low on here!! they are compremising handling just to scrape and rub... get a -50mm car corner weighted and it will out handle anything with standerd dampers 911's inc.. i know cos i have easilly out handles my bro's carrrea 4 on roundabouts.. :lol:

 

Yup, Mine's -30mm (ish!), corner weighted and had a full suspension geometry set up by a pro racing team... By god, did she handle before the crank bolt snapped! 8)

 

I think mine looks spot on too.... but obviously, I'm biased! :roll: :lol:

 

AND I'm not running with drive shafts at silly angles multiplying torque steer and wear of CV joints! :roll: :lol:

[JoeNose 0]

Getting FK coilovers next week... can anyone recommend anywhere which could provide corner-weighting for my C in the North West?

 

Joe

[ben16v 0]

hey guys

 

mine`s lowered -40mm on bbs15`s & proxies and handles sweet but i`m just wondering what corner weighted is??

[VR6 0]

Altering the suspension height so that the car is exerting equal pressure onto the road through each corner.

 

Done using either a big set of car scales :) or a big sort of T-shaped lever.

[ben16v 0]

so just for coilovers then i`m guessing?

[Henny 0]

so just for coilovers then i`m guessing?

 

Yup... unless you know a real "specialist" who can achieve similar set-ups with spacers and spring "tweaks" that I wouldn't reccommend! :wink: :lol:

 

It isn't neccesarily the same amount of weight on each wheel, I think mine's set to 55/45 % front to back with me in the car... 50/50 is perfect for a rear wheel drive car, but the jury is still out as to what is the perfect setting for a front wheel drive... :? What is important, though, is 50/50 weight distribution side to side with the driver in the car... That makes a hell of a difference when it's right... 8)

 

VR6? what's the big T shaped lever?!? Sounds scarey! :shock: The guys that did mine have 4 identical, calibrated, sets of heavy duty electronic scales that they put under each wheel at the same time so you can see the difference between each wheel's load at once. These are on a 4post ramp so that the car can be lifted while still on the scales and access to the coil-overs can be had to set the levels to give the best weight distribution without having to lift the car off it's wheels thus causing it to need to settle again...

 

It's a time consuming process, so it doesn't tend to be cheap, but it's soooooo worth it! 8) The only places I know that do it tend to be rally schools or race-prep garages... I'm lucky 'cos I live about 10 doors down from a race-prep place who agreed to do mine 'cos they keep seeing it about and know I look after it and know what I'm on about... (most of the time! :roll: :wink: :lol: )

[VR6 0]

so just for coilovers then i`m guessing?

 

............

 

VR6? what's the big T shaped lever?!? Sounds scarey! :shock:..........

 

Pic attached. My description wasn't very good? lol :D

[Henny 0]

Ah, ok... It's a big T shaped lever thing... Description was spot on! :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

 

HUMMM, I wonder how much they are then.... I can see an Xmas prezzy being added onto my shopping list! :wink: :lol:

 

*EDIT* just looked on Demon Tweeks' web page... £210.37 for the "big T shaped lever" corner weighting kit... :? The digital system that they used for my set up costs £2K + :shock: I won't be buying one of them then! :roll: :lol: