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t4slc

Need Boost Suggestions

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I have a 2.8L bottom end that i would like to get turbo/super charger ready. I wanna bore/hone the engine out, well to be in all fairness i need to bore/hone, because one of the cylinder walls is lightly damaged when piston shattered. The dilemma i am having is, weather or not i should increase or decrease the compression ratio plus should i go route of turbo or super charger.

 

Ideas? Suggestions? i am open to all, and i will not cheap out on pistons/cons rods etc.

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Well you've basicly answered your own question regarding pistons/rods,buy forged components,fit

and forget(hopefully).

I prefere old skool 8.1cr but nowadays with modern ecus and good injectors you can keep the static cr quite high.

At the end of the day the most important part is in the tuning.

buy a good wideband and exh. gas temp. gauge aswell,also a mechanical fuel press. gauge inside the cockpit is very

usefull.

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the real question here is, turbo or super charger? lower or higher CR? Original runs @ 10:1 i can increase it to 11:1 or lower it to 8:1 which would be better for which application (turbo/super)? I will still need to over bore due to small nick in cylinder wall. Low boost like 6-10psi (kinetic stage 2) or VF super charger, nothing more.

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Hi mate. First and foremost read the Forced induction VR6 thread.

If I was doing what you seem to be suggesting I would do the following:

Just put in reduced compression forged pistons, increasing compression will only make tuning very difficult and most likely reduce max power. 9:1 has to be the way to go.

Get a turbo that will spool up nice and early and give you a steady 10psi throughout the rev range. From what I have read, a ball bearing gt30 series would be a good choice and more than adequate but these don't come cheap. Much cheaper versions are available but these will not spool up quite as early. And at the end of the day you must remember you get what you pay for.

I say turbo rather than super charger as I believe a low boost application can be achieved for the same price and give you a better torque curve, therefore more drivable car (apart from in the wet). I pretty much have the stage 2 kit (and more) in the link below and working towards stage 3 as we speak and will still probably end up sticking on a turbo before I'm happy.

http://www.stormdevelopments.co.uk/12v-2-8-2-9-vr6.html

Either way at 10psi I'd not bother with an intercooler, but aquamist or equivalent is then a must, anything over 10psi intercooling then becomes highly recommended. I'd say if you can intercool a VR for

Also get yourself larger injectors and a remap.

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well, i can not exactly get 9:1 but i can get 8:1. What is the difference between wet and dry turbo? Plus does any one know where i can get some turbo maps? (technical specs (spool range etc))

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nice, that link will be very useful thanks, as well i have read up last night on GT Tech 101-103 to get some ideas. Like you stated up above quick spools would be much nicer for what i want. as well correct on gt30 turbine. i will just have to do some calculations and figure out the trim and etc~!

 

I have just screened through the link you posted, are you using a blank eprom? or the actually vr6 one to modify? Plus all the .XDF and .bin files you pull from the ecu's eprom? you get oem readings then fitted with turbo get second set to populate your data table? even when i read last night on garrett website afr does not make much sense.

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I used a new blank eeprom (from RS or Farnell), just read the original and put it in a safe place. Then just modify the maps in you original binary file to suit using the Air Fuel Ratio readings that had been recorded. Drop me a PM if you want a copy of my working XDF file, your also more than welcome to a copy of my current binary file.

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very well then, upon arrival to that stage i will give you a shout. for right now its gonna sit and for my arrival

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