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darren16v

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Can be, but bit cold out there for temps like that, unless you are driving fairly spirited?? I wouldn't worry about it, unless you temps are exceeding 120.

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sorry think i put this in the wrong place still tryin to get to grips with this forum thing. it has been at 120 when im idlin but it at 100 with the heating flat out when im driving at 60

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coolant temp is around 90 bt as i say am scared to let it idle for too long to see how hot it gets. i wondered if the filter head could be clogged thought about tryin some engine flush through it to see if it could clear it out

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You'd normally see similar temps between oil and water, so it could be a blocked water pipe feeding the oil-to-water heat exchanger or indeed a blocked heat exchanger. If a previous owner has used rad-weld or such like, it could block that up. How long has it been running that hot?

 

New heat exchanger are about £40 BTW - clicky

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as long as ive had it. about 4 months. there was a water pipe leakin when i bought it so ur rad weld theory could be right. think the guy i bought it from was a bit of a dodger it had just gotn an mot bt ive ound at least 6 mot failures without even lookin

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Please don't cross post threads in different forums. Other one has been deleted and this one moved.

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100 centigrade is fine... provided it doesn't get any more than about 110 even in the hottest weather. Valvers do always seem to run a little warm! :)

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100 centigrade is fine... provided it doesn't get any more than about 110 even in the hottest weather. Valvers do always seem to run a little warm! :)

He does see 120degC when idling though!

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Can he trust the gauge????? I seem to get about a 10 deg difference between Coolant (lower) and Oil (higher) temps.

 

Does sound like a problem though.

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I suppose that there maybe some corrosion on the terminal of the temp sender, which a wire brush and a new spade connector may fix??

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even in the coldest temps (-10) my valver still reaches over 100 on the oil (104/106 seems normal fully warmed up), perfectly normal and I've checked the accuracy with an IR thermometer, the oil temp (MFA) gauge is pretty much bang on, 16v engines run 10-15 degrees warmer than the 8v VW engines.

 

If you are worried, then pull a spark plug or two out, you'll soon see in the condition of plugs if the engine is running too lean and the head is getting hot, if both water and oil temps seem to rise a bit too high at idle then you may have a defective fan, fan switch or radiator. This may result in one fan speed not working or only part of the radiator flowing coolant.

 

It's normal to see a bit of a rise on the gauges when coming to a standstill though as the airflow around the engine cools the car a lot when you are moving over 30mph, providing the radiator and fan are operating OK then things should level out after idling for a minute or two.

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All the valvers I've had have run around 100, highest iv ever noticed it get sat in traffic is around 115 and that was the otherweek, Oil temp is the only thing I always trust on the mfa

if you've not done an oil and water change yourself dice u had the car or hve no idea when it was last done, then it ain't gunna hurt to do it, doesn't take too long, as for running a vr radiator the hoses plumb in the other side of the rad so u would have to make up some piping ya self, my friend used to run a deisel rad on his 9a Jetta.

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there really is no need if you have a genuine 16v rad, it's small and mighty :) it's construction gives it as big a surface area for cooling as a radiator twice it's size and speaking from experience it's more than enough to keep a modified 16v cool.

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